Bought a Neo Geo MVH Slot 1F. New battery?

McCHitman

New member
Joined
Aug 5, 2012
Messages
60
Reaction score
0
Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
So I'm currently attempting to restore a MVS-4-25, but I'm having issues with the 4 slot board. So I picked up a Neo-MVH Slot1F from Quarter Arcade that said "Tested and works great", but my question is the battery.

I'm really green to all of this, but I have seen in the past few months about how the battery on these boards will leak over time, destroying the board in the process. How can I tell if the battery on this board is new or old? Or is it possible. At first glance the solder looks really fresh and clean, and the glue looks new, but like I said, greenhorn, so IDK.
 
You can spot most repair work by the flux left around the joints on the solder side of the board. It's the semi-transparent brownish substance, and not often seen in factory solder joints.

The only way to really know if it's leaking is to remove the battery and look for acid underneath it. You can probably get a sense of its age by checking the voltate with a multimeter — lower voltage means older battery.

1-slot boards have a different pinout than the 2/4/6 boards, so you're not going to be able to swap that in and have it work properly. Maybe briefly for testing, but having the audio ground and test switch lines mixed up doesn't seem like a good idea to me at all.

Differences are here if you want to make an adapter: http://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/images/2/27/JammaVsMVS-pinouts.pdf
 
You can spot most repair work by the flux left around the joints on the solder side of the board. It's the semi-transparent brownish substance, and not often seen in factory solder joints.

The only way to really know if it's leaking is to remove the battery and look for acid underneath it. You can probably get a sense of its age by checking the voltate with a multimeter — lower voltage means older battery.

1-slot boards have a different pinout than the 2/4/6 boards, so you're not going to be able to swap that in and have it work properly. Maybe briefly for testing, but having the audio ground and test switch lines mixed up doesn't seem like a good idea to me at all.

Differences are here if you want to make an adapter: http://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/images/2/27/JammaVsMVS-pinouts.pdf


Thanks, I'll look for that flux when I get home.

Ok so the cabinet doesn't work at all, Nothing is currently hooked up. I've built a power board via the hardmvs site, I have a working monitor and everything to assemble the CP. A Standard Jamma harness, and I just bought a Neo Geo Jamma Harness from Bob Roberts.

I know that the MVS Harness that was originally with the cabinets are different pinouts than JAMMA, but should I have a problem with the Neo Geo Harness that I recieved? It's almost identical to the knock off Jamma from Amazon, but there is basically a wire in every pin position.
 
Thanks, I'll look for that flux when I get home.

Ok so the cabinet doesn't work at all, Nothing is currently hooked up. I've built a power board via the hardmvs site, I have a working monitor and everything to assemble the CP. A Standard Jamma harness, and I just bought a Neo Geo Jamma Harness from Bob Roberts.

I know that the MVS Harness that was originally with the cabinets are different pinouts than JAMMA, but should I have a problem with the Neo Geo Harness that I recieved? It's almost identical to the knock off Jamma from Amazon, but there is basically a wire in every pin position.

No, but you wouldn't have a problem until you wired it up anyway. If you wire it like a MVS-4 (which is what I'd expect if you're restoring a MVS-4), you should use or make an adapter for the MVS-1 to compensate for the different pinout. If you're just converting it to a 1-slot, wire it up JAMMA. I assumed it was going to be wired for MVS, since you said you were restoring, not converting to JAMMA.
 
Thanks, I'll look for that flux when I get home.

Ok so the cabinet doesn't work at all, Nothing is currently hooked up. I've built a power board via the hardmvs site, I have a working monitor and everything to assemble the CP. A Standard Jamma harness, and I just bought a Neo Geo Jamma Harness from Bob Roberts.

I know that the MVS Harness that was originally with the cabinets are different pinouts than JAMMA, but should I have a problem with the Neo Geo Harness that I recieved? It's almost identical to the knock off Jamma from Amazon, but there is basically a wire in every pin position.

Note that if whoever swapped the battery likes to clean up after themselves, there will not be flux present. Also, even if the battery has been changed, you don't know when - those boards go back quite a ways, and a previous owner could have changed it several years ago.

Since you bought it from Quarter Arcade, I'd recommend calling him and asking. He'll at least know for sure if he changed it.

You can also inspect the battery itself. If you see any bulging at the ends, then you know it's time to get rid of it.

I don't know about the 1 slot board, but on my 2 slot they actually had markings and pads for about 4 different battery configurations, including a standard coin-cell battery holder (not only were the pads for the holder there, but appropriate spots for the necessary diode as well). So if you do need to change it, look at your options before you just slap another ni-cad in there - it may be quite simple to go to a coin cell.
 
I would change the battery to a coin cell. If you replace it with another rechargeable it will one day leak again and if you don't power the machine periodically it loses all power which will drop settings high scores etc.. There are excellent guides on http://www.jamma-nation-x.com/jammax/ who is also klov member. The parts you need are also available on his website in case you need them. The board will of course run without a battery so that's an option as well.
 
SNK used blue batteries on those boards... Post a pic of the battery.

Look at the ends of them carefully. If they have any "fuzz" on them or if the solder joint looks like it is dull grey or fuzzy then the battery is leaking.
 
SNK used blue batteries on those boards... Post a pic of the battery.

Look at the ends of them carefully. If they have any "fuzz" on them or if the solder joint looks like it is dull grey or fuzzy then the battery is leaking.


Sorry for the delay. I have attached pics from the 1 slot's battery. I will attempt to post some of the 4 slot tomorrow.
 

Attachments

  • o5GZSl.jpg
    o5GZSl.jpg
    48.6 KB · Views: 28
  • QODXPl.jpg
    QODXPl.jpg
    44.2 KB · Views: 25
  • xWsoRl.jpg
    xWsoRl.jpg
    49.4 KB · Views: 28
Quick question for the Neo-Geo techs: Do all the MVS boards use rechargeable batteries? Even the ones that use a coin-cell type (like the MV-1C)? I have an MV-1C that just started giving me a "calendar error".... The battery only reads 2.4V, so it is suspect. I assume I can just replace it with any 3.6V NiMH cell? Anything else I need to do to clear this error?
 
They are all rechargeable. If you replace the battery with a non-rechargeable battery, you will need to disable the charging circuit.
 
Once again, sorry for the delay. Here are pics of the battery from the MVS-4 slot board that I have. It's not near as clean as the other, but the surrounding area shows no sign of leakage...

Thoughts?


Also, does anyone know if this slot is supposed to have something in it?
 

Attachments

  • FfwPOl.jpg
    FfwPOl.jpg
    66.9 KB · Views: 16
  • nK7ial.jpg
    nK7ial.jpg
    69.4 KB · Views: 18
  • 8U5VKl.jpg
    8U5VKl.jpg
    66.4 KB · Views: 18
  • photo(14).jpg
    photo(14).jpg
    98.1 KB · Views: 16
Looks nice & clean... You should inspect it a couple of times a year so that you can pull it when it starts leaking.

Those sockets are empty on a MVS boards. Rumor was they were for a game that was to be built-in but it's just a rumor.
 
Those batteries leak from the underside first, you should pull the battery completely to make sure it isn't leaking and replace it if it is. Most MVS batteries I've seen leak from the negative pole first.
 
Those batteries leak from the underside first, you should pull the battery completely to make sure it isn't leaking and replace it if it is. Most MVS batteries I've seen leak from the negative pole first.

So I pull back the leathery fabric first?

I've seen you have to desolder to remove them, is this correct? And can I desolder with a regular soldering iron?
 
Yup, peel it back and you will need either desoldering wick or a desoldering bulb. Once you desolder the two posts you will have to remove the silicone around the battery. Then lift it out and check if it's leaking. It should be obvious if it is.
 
Yup, peel it back and you will need either desoldering wick or a desoldering bulb. Once you desolder the two posts you will have to remove the silicone around the battery. Then lift it out and check if it's leaking. It should be obvious if it is.

Ok, thanks. I got a soldering iron, but have yet to try my hand at that skill.
 
MV1AX battery replacement

Hey there,
sorry for not introducing myself properly in the introduction- section of this board.

But I have question that is bugging me for a few days now.
I just got myself a MV1AX board and it still had the original Toshiba coin cell attached to it.

And after all the 'horror'- stories I' ve read about how leaking batteries can destroy boards I decided to remove it. Even though there were no signs of leakage at all (better safe than sorry).

Since I want the board to stay as original as possible I don' t like the idea of desoldering those parts on the back of the motherboard to stop it from recharging.

Now for the actual questions I have.

What are the downsides of replacing it with another rechargeable battery?

Can I use a battery with 3.6v, too?

What if there was a rechargeable cr2032 available, could that also be a solution? ('cause there is)

Can using the MV1AX without a battery cause the board to fail/ getting damaged (backup- ram errors, etc. or worse)?

And yes, you' re right if you think I' m a tech noob. ('cause I am)

Sorry for using an older thread, but I thought it' s better than making a new thread on an existing topic.

Hope you understand what I mean.
Thanks in advance and regards,

missingLink
 
Back
Top Bottom