BOP helmet lights dead / blowing fuse

Actually, you're on pin 3. Count up from the bottom.

Usually, on connectors like that, you'll see the first and last pins labeled. On the diagram, look at connector J1. On that drawing, at the top right and top left corners of the connector, you'll see a little #1 and #5. They are upside down. It looks like there might be similar markings on the actual board itself, that label #1 and #5.

Don't always count on the #1 pins being in the same spots all the time either, because if you look at connector J3.... it's reversed.

Reading the pins on chips is different, easier in pictures than in words.
This Wiki has an explanation about 2/3 of the way down. Everything is oriented off of the notch at the end, and sometimes there will be a printed or stamped dot at pin 1.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dual_in-line_package

-Hans
 
seems the J1 is up at the top right of the red circled plug. I tried both 2nd pin with little success.

What do I set my DMM at to check this. I am so sorry to even ask. I am that confused :(

I have tried every setting from both sides and they make no sense.

Testing all of it with the power on.

Tjqg9.jpg
 
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Do the pins go as computers do... 0 -1 -2?

I cannot see how I circled pin 3 otherwise. The pic makes it seem like I am 3rd from the top, but it was the 2nd from the top.

I keep the pin connected and jam the probe into the contacts that pierce the wire right?
 
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No nedd read. Just some interplay between me and a guy who knows more than me

I am zobert

phat: Do you know what the readings are supposed to be on the dmm?
Zobert: that is why we have not had a party this year
phat: Likely it's something like 1.7 volts or somesuch.
Zobert: yup know what they should be, but do not know what to set the DMM to
Zobert: too (SP?)
phat: set it to DC at that point.
phat: I'm sorry I was preoccupied.
Zobert: http://i.imgur.com/Tjqg9.jpg
Zobert: the DCV right off the center to the right?
phat: yes
Zobert: ah
Zobert: those readings were really messed up
phat: I think the AC setting may actually work in this case, too.
Zobert: fluctuating
Zobert: yeah some pinball switch that shit
phat: Well, then you got a bad transistor, it sounds like.
Zobert: I just replaces the bad transistors on the main power driver board
Zobert: might of fried the ones on the daughter board I was working on
phat: Odds are, one went bad and the whole thing cascaded.
Zobert: will hit them with the ohms to see if they still good
Zobert: replaced all of those as well
phat: Hmm.
phat: Well, then, you've got another problem.
Zobert: seems I keep replacing components and maybe messing them up
Zobert: all my shit is wired correctly
phat: Have you tested the resistors that go to ground?
Zobert: yup cascaded
phat: Have you replaced the capacitors?
phat: Especially the power caps.
Zobert: there is a ground braid
Zobert: I am in over my head to be honest
phat: Well, this is how we learn.
Zobert: le
Zobert: sigh
Zobert: true
phat: I use a particular database at work and I'm easily one of the most experienced people in the world on that thing.
Zobert: replaced all caps on the daughter board
phat: I learned a new trick today.
phat: Or I should say, "relearned".
Zobert: and lots of resistors
Zobert: ooooooooo learn
phat: Have you tested the resistors
phat: ?
Zobert: before, replaced a few
phat: Ok.
phat: Test them in circuit, with no power.
Zobert: I totally fucked up and put a transistor where a voltage regulator should of been
phat: Also, check for shorts in the board itself.
Zobert: I do not know where to check
phat: Yeah, that could wreak all sorts of havoc.
Zobert: http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showpost.php?p=1321918&postcount=4
Zobert: Well, now that I've looked a the diagram..... we've got a problem. U6 should be a 7805 voltage regulator and not a TIP102 transistor. They use the same case design, but are very different parts. Definitely should NOT have a TIP102 anywhere on that board.
phat: The most important thing to check in a circuit is the path to ground.
Zobert: I do not know where my ground is :-(
phat: That's where most problems occur.
Zobert: http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4128/4948140073_e74a013dcf_b.jpg
phat: You can find the ground path pretty easily.
phat: In fact, it may be labeled on the board.
Zobert: up on J1 on the top right I think there is one
Zobert: so should check that
Zobert: I think that is what the guy helping me is going towards
phat: Do you have a schematic of the circuit?
Zobert: makes sense now
Zobert: http://beerorkid.com/stuff/Williams_1991_The_Machine_Bride_of_Pin_bot_Full_Manual.pdf
Zobert: will get page number
Zobert: it is fucked though
Zobert: bad scan
phat: Ok, you need to learn how to read the schematic.
Zobert: my hard manual is much better
phat: Have you learned that?
Zobert: been doing OK on it
Zobert: also following wires
phat: What are J2 and J3 on that board?
Zobert: led me to the right transistors to replace on the main power driver board
Zobert: will check
phat: By the way, dude, I'm just gonna say this right now, this woman I sent the note to seems amazing.
phat: Oh shit, that diagram tells me what's on that board.
phat: I'm sorry I didn't notice.
Zobert: sweet on the lady
phat: Ok, so the js are just jumpers to other boards.
Zobert: j1 is where the power connects
phat: Which I should have known.
Zobert: it is just power
phat: Ah!
phat: Ok.
Zobert: j2 I am not sure
phat: I wouldn't be shocked if J1 had a short.
phat: What's the game doing?
phat: Are you getting nothing or is it just acting erratically?
Zobert: I think J1 also sends the info for the board too
Zobert: seems J2 and J3 go to the lights
Zobert: it is a board that controls flashing lights to the helmet
phat: Yeah, there seems to be a "data" deal on there, and a clock signal.
Zobert: they take many diff patterns
Zobert: absolutely nothing
phat: nothing.
phat: ok, well, that might be complicated, but it's likely not.
Zobert: they were really weak before, and I put 3 LED lights (that take way less power) in the helmet and they all died
Zobert: nothing at all now
phat: Oh really?
Zobert: on the forum they think it might be power supply problems
Zobert: we have not gotten into that much
phat: Were they bulbs before?
Zobert: so I figured it was on the power driver board. Replaced all the transistors that correspond to them, still nothing
phat: Or LEDs?
Zobert: that is what I did today
Zobert: I could of still fried a IC chip
Zobert: they were incondecent bulbs before
Zobert: much higher draw
phat: Ah, ok, what did you do when you tossed in the LEDs?
Zobert: but the LED bulbs I put in were polarized
phat: There's your problem.
Zobert: I do not think that would matter, they would just not light up up if inserted the wrong way
phat: Or were the LEDs designed to replace bulbs?
Zobert: those bulbs are pulled and incandescent are back in
Zobert: yup
phat: ok
phat: well, maybe that's not the problem.
Zobert: because LED are brighter, use less power (reducing strain), and never burn out
phat: Right
phat: hmm
Zobert: but it was strange that putting those bulbs in was what killed the whole set of lights
phat: That is strange, yes.
Zobert: they worked before, but were weak as hell
phat: OK, so, I think maybe we can isolate this problem.
Zobert: I will prob pull the chase light board, check with ohms all the transistors (diodes?) , and replace them if needed. And also replace the IC chips and go from there
Zobert: my problem is not isolating it
Zobert: Actually thinking about it now it must be the IC chips
Zobert: because my readings were so off
phat: That could be.
phat: You should test things in order.
Zobert: they flucuated like how the lights would blink
phat: ok, that's a good sign, actually
phat: So it's not the ICs
Zobert: it is a huge pain to follow the wires, but I am willing
Zobert: well maybe the ICs are not accepting the signal and working properly
phat: ICs don't fail very often at all, unless something really bad happens.
phat: If they're putting out lots of switching, then they're fine.
Zobert: I have put the DMM up on the lights that are supposed to work and nothing
Zobert: but I put a transistor in the place of a voltage regulator and blew fuses
Zobert: so I might of messed them up
phat: Yes
Zobert: I could still get readings from U1 pin 14, but they were strange. I know you do not know what that was, but it was a tip from a web friend
phat: I suspect you've got a power supply problem, now.
Zobert: I am thinking that too
phat: Ah, have you replace U1?
Zobert: have not, that would be my next thing I do
phat: Do it!
Zobert: still 14 pins to unsolder and resolder
Zobert: gah
phat: And, if you can, put a socket in there.
Zobert: I am good, but that will kill me
phat: Yeah, PITA
Zobert: yup socket
Zobert: holy shit you know your shit
phat: sort of, yes
Zobert: but this is one you should never have to mess with
Zobert: not sure a socket would be worth it
phat: I dig this shit to no end.
phat: Well, you may as well.
Zobert: you wanna come play?
Zobert: lol
phat: You're more likely to damage the IC when soldering it in directly, anyway.
phat: Put a socket in there.
phat: Saves a headache.
Zobert: will order some
Zobert: might as well
Zobert: although I feel like freeballing it
phat: You don't have to worry about getting the heat sinked when soldering, which is the biggest problem.
Zobert: ah
Zobert: makes sense
phat: yes
phat: Heat kills solid state dead.
Zobert: damn
phat: some guys socket everything
phat: transistors and even resistors.
Zobert: I would put all the effort on getting the old one out and then bend a bit of the legs for the holding
Zobert: solder well
Zobert: but I see the heat factor
phat: yes
Zobert: heat the component not the trace or solder
phat: plus, when your dealing with digital ICs, grounding gets weird when soldering directly.
Zobert: so it stresses it
Zobert: ack
phat: some of these chips can be touchy
 
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