BOP helmet lights dead / blowing fuse

beerorkid

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So as with most of my problems, this issue arose when I was loading the helmet with frosted LED 555 bulbs. The helmet lights have always been really dim, but I figured that was normal. I swapped out 3 bulbs and powered on the machine and all of them were out. Replaced the incandescent and still nothing.

Followed the wires and they go to a A-14007 chase light assy. I pulled the board and tested all the 2N5060 SCRs and what looks exactly like a TIP102. The TIP102 was giving some strange readings compared to a new unsoldered one, so I swapped it out. Seems it was fine though. Still nothing

4946872485_bdb30ffb4f_z.jpg

A-14007 chase light assy

Figured I should check the fuses in the backbox and fuse F116 +12V secondary 3A, S.B was out. replaced with a 2.5 amp fuse and it blew right away. I do not know if that fuse was blown before the helmet light issue.

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Not sure if these two are related. Game plays fine with the blown fuse. Any suggestions?
 
Oh yeah I forgot about that. Trying to figure out which capacitor it is. Checked pinballlife and marcospec and not finding it. If someone could help on two things for me I would be grateful.

U6 is where I put in a TIP102. Is that correct?
C1 is where the capacitor is and not able to find a replacement online.

4948140073_e74a013dcf_b.jpg
 
Well, now that I've looked a the diagram..... we've got a problem. U6 should be a 7805 voltage regulator and not a TIP102 transistor. They use the same case design, but are very different parts. Definitely should NOT have a TIP102 anywhere on that board.

The two capacitors are 1uf 63v and a 100uf 25v.

Ed at Great Plains electronics stocks all of these, should be under $5 shipped for one of each capacitor plus the regulator.

Don't know what it might have done to the other chips though having that wrong part in there. Hopefully the fuse blowing protected everything.

-Hans
 
Placed the order earlier this morning with Ed, but I need some remote battery things from the shack as well.

Sucks 1/2 my threads involve me doing some thing stupid :(
 
Placed the order earlier this morning with Ed, but I need some remote battery things from the shack as well.

Sucks 1/2 my threads involve me doing some thing stupid :(

I think you can afford $1.29 to get the thing running again ;)
there's not enough server space for all of use to talk about every single stupid moronic newb move we've all done. don;t sweat it. When it's running it'll make you appreciate it that much more.
 
update:

Got the voltage reg swapped out, got the 100uf 25v cap swapped too. I ordered the wrong other cap though. I got a few 100uf 63v instead of a 1uf 63v >.< I am guessing those are not interchangeable. Raido shack does not seem to carry those :(

Lights are still dead, but the fuse is not blowing and the game is working.

Should I order the 1uf 63v caps? How do I check the one on the board with a DMM?

Should I start testing the chips?

And as a last resort, can I order new chips?

At least it still plays, so that is good.
 
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Holy cow is the schematic for this hard to read..... Layed out well, but the numbers are so blurry!

U1 would be the only chip I'd worry about, as any of the other chips being bad would result in only half the lights being out. But there are others things to test first.

You should have 5v on Pin 14 of U2 and U3. If you don't, it's a power supply problem and you'll definitely need that other capacitor. Should also be seeing 18V or so on pin 5 of the input connector (the small one)

Also check the values of R1-R9.

If the those resistors test good, and you've got good voltages, then it's time to look elsewhere. Could be U1..... could also be a bad data signal coming in from the previous board. Not sure what kind of input signal you should be seeing, would have to really dig into the schematics.

-Hans
 
And to show just how much of a newb I am. Where do I connect the other DMM probe to see the voltage?

This would be with the power on?

And once again thanks Hans.
 
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Yep, power should be ON to check voltage. Put the black DMM lead on Pin 2 of the power connector for all of these.

To check the 5v circuit, put the red lead on either side of resistor R7(or R8 or R9, they're all fine for this). You should see 5v on one side of the resistor, and less than 5v on the other. If that checks ok, than the whole power supply circuit on the board should be good too.

To check the resistance values of the resistors R1 through R9, turn the power off to the machine and set the DMM to check resistance. You'll also want to disconnect the power connector for the board to prevent false readings. Put the red lead on one side of the resistor, and the black lead on the other, and that gets you the resistance value. It should be within 10% of what the diagram calls for.

Looking further into the diagrams..... it could also be a problem on the power-driver board with solenoids 25 or 28, as these are what controls the chase board.
 
Thanks a bunch Hans for the detailed steps.

5v is all good. Power driver board Qs are good as well.

Found R7 and R5 are not giving a reading. Picked some up this morning. Going to swap them out and see what happens.
 
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Tackling this today. I have replaced all the bits on the chase light assembly board under the playfield that were reading bad and the caps. I have picked up all the IC chips, but have not swapped them out yet.

The lights were really weak and went out before I put some LED bulbs in there, which killed them all. So I am looking more at the power driver board as being the problem. I tried to test with it mounted, but the transistors are all a bit bent and hard to test, so i am going to go from the back. Before that I am going to recheck all the tips offered in this thread.

I followed the wires, with little sucess, because I would have to remove a bunch of stuff to know for sure. It does seem like they are heading to J125 and 126 which is "low power configurable and flash lamp" according to the manual. And is hitting the transistors Hans mentioned.

Never going to give up. I will replace every piece in that area if needed :p

So yeah not really a question in this post, just updating so I can report more and maybe see if others have some more tips.
 
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on Q25 the transistor is a 2n5401 (and on all others the same shape) but in the manual it says to use a 2n4403.

are they compatible?
 
googled

The 2N5401 is rated at a much higher voltage, but if it's being used as a
pre-driver you should be fine with your sub.

And it seems they used the 2n4403 in the manual. Getting funky readings so I am going to go for it.
 
replaced all related transistors on the power driver board and no luck

But I could still be on the right track. now going to replace the U1 on the chase light board. Please, please let that fix my prob.

it might be possible the transistors on the PDB were bad and my earlier goof fried the 1U on the chase light board.

grrrrrrr
 
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I think I need more basic help.

You should have 5v on Pin 14 of U2 and U3. If you don't, it's a power supply problem and you'll definitely need that other capacitor. Should also be seeing 18V or so on pin 5 of the input connector (the small one)

Also check the values of R1-R9.

If the those resistors test good, and you've got good voltages, then it's time to look elsewhere. Could be U1..... could also be a bad data signal coming in from the previous board. Not sure what kind of input signal you should be seeing, would have to really dig into the schematics.

-Hans

Yep, power should be ON to check voltage. Put the black DMM lead on Pin 2 of the power connector for all of these.

To check the 5v circuit, put the red lead on either side of resistor R7(or R8 or R9, they're all fine for this). You should see 5v on one side of the resistor, and less than 5v on the other. If that checks ok, than the whole power supply circuit on the board should be good too.

Baby step me please. I am really sorry to ask. Should I be on the omega symbol to test this?

here is what I took from that above.

5073281027_e64deef3a2_z.jpg


That is pin 2 of the power to that card. Is that right? circle in the red circle

4948140073_e74a013dcf_b.jpg


I was getting insane readings from it.

I apologies for being such a newb on this shit. I want to learn so bad, not just be helped. They block pin repair at work thinking it has something to do with games. So lame. Going to talk to the guy who runs the firewall tomorrow.

And how to know which leg of the chip to check?

I really need to review and learn from pinrepair.com. I know. I am just so lost on the basics it seems. I am pretty decent at soldering already.
 
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