Blue Screen Capcom CPS2 Phoenix'ed Board

r27blades

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Hi All,

Appreciate you stopping by and reading. I have what I think is a little bit of an unusual situation based on my reading. I have 2 CPS2 motherboards, "A boards" and two "B boards" D&D SoM and SSFIIX. Recently, I noticed I started to get a blue screen on both.

I thought this was odd since they were running fine since I got them a year ago. I thought if it happened to one, that's understandable, but both at the same time is odd. I spoke with the seller I bought them from to ask for troubleshooting tips since we worked on both and restored them. He mentioned a blue screen is typically indicative of the suicide battery, but he removed them and phoenixed both boards. So I shouldn't be getting a blue screen failure due to that. I tested other PCBs - TMNT TiT, XMEN, GAx2, NeoGeo MVH4, Dogyuun, and Batrider, all of which run without issue.

I thought something might have changed with my voltage since I replaced my Unico Nova Blast's clunky IO board with a Mini Gun SuperGun v2.5, but readouts are consistent at +5.01V. From there, I took the top cover off the A board for SSFIIX and took the B board out completely and seated the boards together without the casing between.

I thought, "It worked! AH, the issue was just the connection due to the casing." I was thrilled. A week went by, and I was able to turn on the cab and boot the games without issue. Leaving SSFIIX up for hours. Over the weekend, the blue screen came back.

At this point, it has remained blue on 7 attempted boots. I left the boards disconnected from each other and removed from Jamma to ensure any residual charge on them was depleted for over 20 hours. Nothing. Just stays blue. With the boards being Phoenixed and other boards working in the cab, any ideas what I can assess next?
 
There's a cap labeled CC1 by where the battery goes on the CPS2 cart PCB. It's know to short across it with a screwdriver to drain any charge holding the encryption table. You could also solder a 1K resistor across the pins of it. That will bleed down any voltage when you power it off and cause it to clear out the encryption table.
 
There's a cap labeled CC1 by where the battery goes on the CPS2 cart PCB. It's know to short across it with a screwdriver to drain any charge holding the encryption table. You could also solder a 1K resistor across the pins of it. That will bleed down any voltage when you power it off and cause it to clear out the encryption table.
I was thinking this was encryption related. how does it come back if there's no battery though?
 
Thank you both for chiming in. @channelmanic have a few quick questions for you. The seller wrote back to me last night suggesting the same thing but with two points. He mentioned using 10k resistor. I am assuming 1k is a threshold. I have both resistors. Should I go 10K? He also mentioned replacing the cap with the resistor just wanted to ask if that lines up with what you are suggesting I do or if you mean for me to run them in parallel. Thanks!
 
I just tack it across the joint on the bottom of the PCB. Anything from 1K to 10K should work.

Mecha: It's not that it comes back, it's that the table gets in a corrupted state.
 
[UPDATE] I was able to remove the CC1 capacitor from the SSFIIX board. At further review I saw it was leaking on the underside. I replaced it with a 1,000K resistor.

Been testing for the last 5 days and so far clean boot each time!
 
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