Blind Super Pac Man converted to Jr Pac Man

here is a pic of the chassis ,you will see the big white resister, put your black ground to the chassis frame and the red to the test point with the white wire.
 

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here is a pic of the chassis ,you will see the big white resister, put your black ground to the chassis frame and the red to the test point with the white wire.

10-4 , thanks, I will check that tonight after work and post what i find.
 
you should check your B+ voltage. big white resisiter on the black heatsink. set your meter to 200vdc. should be far side should be 120VDC.

Ok, its late, but i checked, I get nothing when I do the big white resistor test, nothing even close to the far side of the 120vdc. Though I do like i said before, I get 125.4 vdc at the plug i have circled on my recent picture i posted.

So, what does this tell us?
 
you have two fuses on the chassis, check them, check the H.O.T., you said the fly was replaced but look for cracks or anything oozing out of it.
 
you have two fuses on the chassis, check them, check the H.O.T., you said the fly was replaced but look for cracks or anything oozing out of it.

I seen one of the fuses, the one next to the resistor, not sure where the other one is. I will look closer tonight, am i ok with just popping that fuse out, or do need to be that extra carefull with that?
Also, h.o.t ?
thanks
 
usually the fuses are soldered so you have to test it on the board. the HOT is the round metal transister that sits on the outside metal wall of the chassis by the flyback.with the game off, meter on diode test, put your black to ground ,and your red on the case of the HOT. if it goes to short its bad. those would be the next things i would check.
 
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usually the fuses are soldered so you have to test it on the board. the HOT is the round metal transister that sits on the outside metal wall of the chassis by the flyback.with the game off, meter on diode test, put your black to ground ,and your red on the case of the HOT. if it goes to short its bad. those would be the next things i would check.

ok, tested the hot, with the diode tester, got the beeping sound, so I take it thats good. Also looked for that other fuse, and was not able to see that anywhere . Any ideas on the local, or picture?
 
there is a little fuse right next to the big gray cap.its sitting right next to it. if you get a consent beep from testing the hot then its bad what did your meter say?
 
there is a little fuse right next to the big gray cap.its sitting right next to it. if you get a consent beep from testing the hot then its bad what did your meter say?

Ok I misstook what your were asking, I checked the HOT, grounded the black wire to the chassis, and just touched the red to the case figuring that was just a continuity test, but just got the constant beep. Also i did the red wire to the solder joint and also got the constant beep, both times the meter read zero. So what am i doing wrong?

Also, the fuse that i see is the one just below the big gray cap, it the other one i can not find. I seen the cap kit location map from the real roberts site....but dont see the fuse?..
 
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Ok I misstook what your were asking, I checked the HOT, grounded the black wire to the chassis, and just touched the red to the case figuring that was just a continuity test, but just got the constant beep. Also i did the red wire to the solder joint and also got the constant beep, both times the meter read zero. So what am i doing wrong?

Also, the fuse that i see is the one just below the big gray cap, it the other one i can not find. I seen the cap kit location map from the real roberts site....but dont see the fuse?..

take a look at the at the picture. you will see one fuse just above the the big gray cap and one just to the left of it hiding under those plug wires. if you tested the HOT correctly then it sounds bad and needs to be replaced.
 
take a look at the at the picture. you will see one fuse just above the the big gray cap and one just to the left of it hiding under those plug wires. if you tested the HOT correctly then it sounds bad and needs to be replaced.

Ok, testing the hot, I think I tested it correctly, black wire to chassis, and the red wire to the outside circle on the case, did I do that correctly?
 

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Also, I went and double checked that second fuse, my board does not have one in that area, its an open spot, and also, i read on the R908 is a problem child too, and again, looking at my board there is no resistor there, just a plain wire the runs threw it.
 
caps dont look that old but it wouldnt hurt .i usually change out R908 when i do a cap kit. you can get all your parts from bob roberts. or you can just buy a chassis here rebuilt, seen them from 80 to 120 bucks.
 
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