Blind Super Pac Man converted to Jr Pac Man

cmkryzer

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Another sweet find, A Super Pac Man converted to Pac Man Junior, plays blind I guess is the term I have seen used on other threads. I am told from the original owner that he got a while back, played fine, then the screen when blank, he monkeyed with wires, got it to work, then a few months out again, but this time no luck on wire wiggeling.
So being the newbe, and you guys helped out with my centipede a few weeks ago.
What you guys think ?
 
need the model number of the monitor chassis or a good picture of it,then can tell you where to start. since you were wiggling wires to get it to work i would check the 120 vac going to the chassis first.
 
need the model number of the monitor chassis or a good picture of it,then can tell you where to start. since you were wiggling wires to get it to work i would check the 120 vac going to the chassis first.



...or the signal input header.
 
Here are the pictures you guys requested, as you can see, there is alot of silicone that i do not think belongs there. Also, there is a tag the says 04/13/98 replaced fly back with coil and elc cap.
And , when powered up, the is no light in the neck tube?

Sorry forgot to add, I dont see a tag that say what kind of monitor this is.
 

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You need to do some testing to see if your getting any power to the monitor...but having dealt with several super pacs....

There are a few basic things you can look at to try to avoid that if its a little over your head...

When you power game on...what does work...coin door lights...marquee...game playing blind as I believe you said...

That tells me board is getting power and monitor likely is not getting any or not enough to power up...so I would say you need to get a new power supply...Arcadeshop makes a switcher that is plug and play for your existing cab...with no hacks...you can fix the existing power supply but you need some solder skills and have to order the rebuilt kit from Bob Roberts for that style power supply...otherwise go with switcher..

If you decide to fix the original power supply later the switcher can be removed and the original popped right back with no issue....

If you really want to find out what is going on and verify for sure if the monitor has issue of its own or if its wiring or power supply issue...take the monitor out and try it in another working game to see if it powers up.
 
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I would check for 120V on the monitor (actually, isolate whether the issue is monitor problem or not) first. If the problem is the monitor, this switcher will make no difference!

Arcadeshop makes a switcher that is plug and play for your existing cab...with no hacks...you can fix the existing power supply but you need some solder skills and have to order the rebuilt kit from Bob Roberts for that style power supply...otherwise go with switcher..
 
I would check for 120V on the monitor (actually, isolate whether the issue is monitor problem or not) first. If the problem is the monitor, this switcher will make no difference!

So me being new to the game world, where would I check on the monitor to see if i am getting the 120v. There is a two wire plug to the monitor, I diconneted, and got the voltage to plug, so is there some where on the chassis I can check?
 
I would check for 120V on the monitor (actually, isolate whether the issue is monitor problem or not) first. If the problem is the monitor, this switcher will make no difference!

No shit Dick Tracy...I'm trying to keep it simple since he's new to the repair thing...always love when someone pops in and has to 1up you on a repair thread...

Read the entire thread I did mention he could try to see if monitor works in another game to isolate the issue..I always lean towards the simple for newbies since they typically don't have a meter to begin with...as opposed to just popping on and saying measure the voltage..that is often foreign language to newer person..:rolleyes:

if you do have a meter then time to learn how to use it...:rolleyes:
 
No shit Dick Tracy...I'm trying to keep it simple since he's new to the repair thing...always love when someone pops in and has to 1up you on a repair thread...

Read the entire thread I did mention he could try to see if monitor works in another game to isolate the issue..I always lean towards the simple for newbies since they typically don't have a meter to begin with...as opposed to just popping on and saying measure the voltage..that is often foreign language to newer person..:rolleyes:

if you do have a meter then time to learn how to use it...:rolleyes:

Simple is good. As far as pulling the monitor, i have a dig dug, centipede and a asteroids, but i dont think those are interchangable as far as the monitors?.
And yes i do have a meter...
 
No shit Dick Tracy...I'm trying to keep it simple since he's new to the repair thing...always love when someone pops in and has to 1up you on a repair thread...

Sorry Roadrunner. It was not my intent to 1up. My intent was to keep a newbie from running out and buying something and then complaining if it did not resolve the problem.

And then in a different thread I advocated someone buying a replacement harness instead of troubleshooting the issue with their controls. I am a hypocrite! :rolleyes:

Read the entire thread I did mention he could try to see if monitor works in another game to isolate the issue..I always lean towards the simple for newbies since they typically don't have a meter to begin with...as opposed to just popping on and saying measure the voltage..that is often foreign language to newer person..:rolleyes:

Missed that part about trying another monitor. I usually try to keep it simple too. This time I did not succeed!

if you do have a meter then time to learn how to use it...:rolleyes:
 
And with all the drama... this is off to the monitors section.

First, do you get a flash of white or light on the face of the monitor when you power it down? If you do then you have high voltage and the monitor is working to a degree. You can do this *without* having a meter or any other piece of test equipment.

As with ALL Pac games, check the fuse holders in the bottom of the cabinet as they tend to corrode. This goes back to the part of check to make sure you have 120v AC to the power input connection on the monitor.

If you have power to the monitor but no picture then it's time to learn monitor troubleshooting...
 
Super pac doesnt use the same crappy fuse blocks as pac/mspac. It has the suitcase style power brick since it uses a linear power supply. I would start by seeing if the game will coin up and play blind. If not test the power supply for the correct voltages. If the power supply has failed throw a switcher in there. Super pacs and Jr's run fine on a switcher.
I think the first step is to find out if you have a board/power supply problem or a monitor problem or possibly all of the above.
 
Sorry Roadrunner. It was not my intent to 1up. My intent was to keep a newbie from running out and buying something and then complaining if it did not resolve the problem.

And then in a different thread I advocated someone buying a replacement harness instead of troubleshooting the issue with their controls. I am a hypocrite! :rolleyes:



Missed that part about trying another monitor. I usually try to keep it simple too. This time I did not succeed!

Don't sweat it...I was in a bad mood yesterday...:D Everything and everyone was pissing me off...
Anyway you have some good advice from all on here..should be pretty easy to determine what your problem is if you follow all the good advice.
 
OK , at the circle I have 120v at that plug and where the wire continues to the board. At the star, is there a reason for all that silicone?
And as far as upon start up, there nothing at all on the monitor.
So i think what my plan i now is to pull the monitor out and check for cld solder joints unless some one tells to some thing different.
 

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There shouldnt be ANY silicone on the anode cap. That was someones quick fix because it was arcing. Usually when they arc its only because the area and cap needs to be cleaned. Your probably going to find you have more issues than just solder joints on the monitor chassis.
It does look like your flyback has been changed and it has been recapped. If you turn it on and look at the tubes neck can you see a faint orange glow?
 
There shouldnt be ANY silicone on the anode cap. That was someones quick fix because it was arcing. Usually when they arc its only because the area and cap needs to be cleaned. Your probably going to find you have more issues than just solder joints on the monitor chassis.
It does look like your flyback has been changed and it has been recapped. If you turn it on and look at the tubes neck can you see a faint orange glow?

Nope no glow at all
 
you should check your B+ voltage. big white resisiter on the black heatsink. set your meter to 200vdc. should be far side should be 120VDC.
 
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