BK CR-25 adapter the same as CR-23????

Robran68

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I have a TV tube A48KCR02XX that says it uses a CR-25 adapter...WTF?

This is what I found out about the specs on these two adapters....

Model CR-23 Adapter: Tests RCA 90 deg. Bi-potential in-line 19VHYP22,
19VJKP22.


Model CR-25 Adapter: Tests 90 deg. low Bi-potential in-line 13VBEP22,
19VHWP22, 420AGB22, others


Will this tube work with a GO7, 4600, or 4900 chassis????
 
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The CR23 and CR25 are slightly differently pinned and it will not work unless you build an adaptor for your monitor chassis to the CR25 monitor.
 
The CR23 and CR25 are slightly differently pinned and it will not work unless you build an adaptor for your monitor chassis to the CR25 monitor.

Is that possible? How would you re-route the pins in a, lets say a G07 neckboard, with the CR25 socket being used? Cut the traces and solder new wires on the neckboard?
 
Is that possible? How would you re-route the pins in a, lets say a G07 neckboard, with the CR25 socket being used? Cut the traces and solder new wires on the neckboard?


You could do that, but it is more common for an adaptor from the G07 neckboard to the CR25 socket. This way you don't trash your G07.
 
I'm going off memory here, so I could be wrong, but I /think/ that this particular tube just has red and green reversed. So if you made an input adapter to swap the colours...

Or maybe I'm thinking of a CR-24. It's been a while since I looked up the specs for it.
 
I'm going off memory here, so I could be wrong, but I /think/ that this particular tube just has red and green reversed. So if you made an input adapter to swap the colours...

Or maybe I'm thinking of a CR-24. It's been a while since I looked up the specs for it.

How would I make an input adapter?
 
The CR24 is the one that has red and green swapped from the CR23. This works fine for a rejuvenator but requires the jumpering in order to swap chassis.

To use a CR23 chassis on a CR25 tube you will need to find a way to adapt the neckboard adaptor this way

1 - 1
5 - 9
6 - 12
7 - 10
8 - 8
9 - 6
10 - 7
11 - 3


5 and 7 may need to be swapped in order to make it work. Let us know how this turns out...
 
The CR24 is the one that has red and green swapped from the CR23. This works fine for a rejuvenator but requires the jumpering in order to swap chassis.

To use a CR23 chassis on a CR25 tube you will need to find a way to adapt the neckboard adaptor this way

1 - 1
5 - 9
6 - 12
7 - 10
8 - 8
9 - 6
10 - 7
11 - 3


5 and 7 may need to be swapped in order to make it work. Let us know how this turns out...

Hmmmm....The only "non-destructive" way I could think of is getting pins like in the neck of a tube and putting them in the G07 neckboard socket holes and soldering wires from each one to the correct connection on the back of the CR25 socket.

Option #2, wait for a Frogger game that needs a new tube. :p
 
The cleanest way to pull this off would be to find a socket adapter for the CR25. Since that's not likely to be had, your next best option would be:

1. Desolder the CR25 socket from the TV's neckboard.

2. Solder and shrink tube some wire on the back of each pinout on the CR25 socket from the TV.

3. Desolder your G07 socket from your G07 neckboard. Clean up the holes to allow for through-hole mounting.

4. Using the pin mapping mentioned earlier in this thread, tin and solder the other end of each wire from your CR25 socket to the proper through hole on your G07 neckboard.

5. Wrap your G07 neckboard in something non-conductive to protect it.

That should do it. The only downside to this approach is that the neckboard will be free-floating, and not attached to the tube's socket. It'll kind of make it a pain for adjusting color pots and such. But if you're only planning on placing the monitor, adjusting it, and leaving it permanently, it would make a fine solution.

Personally, I'd keep searching for another CR23 tube myself. Seems like a lot of McGyver work just to use a tube that may or may not look good, since you may need to re-converge it. (you ARE planning on swapping the G07 yoke over, right?)
 
The cleanest way to pull this off would be to find a socket adapter for the CR25. Since that's not likely to be had, your next best option would be:

1. Desolder the CR25 socket from the TV's neckboard.

2. Solder and shrink tube some wire on the back of each pinout on the CR25 socket from the TV.

3. Desolder your G07 socket from your G07 neckboard. Clean up the holes to allow for through-hole mounting.

4. Using the pin mapping mentioned earlier in this thread, tin and solder the other end of each wire from your CR25 socket to the proper through hole on your G07 neckboard.

5. Wrap your G07 neckboard in something non-conductive to protect it.

That should do it. The only downside to this approach is that the neckboard will be free-floating, and not attached to the tube's socket. It'll kind of make it a pain for adjusting color pots and such. But if you're only planning on placing the monitor, adjusting it, and leaving it permanently, it would make a fine solution.

Personally, I'd keep searching for another CR23 tube myself. Seems like a lot of McGyver work just to use a tube that may or may not look good, since you may need to re-converge it. (you ARE planning on swapping the G07 yoke over, right?)

Yes this could also work, thanx. I might wait for now but on a good note have learned a little more about TV tubes. Looks like I'm gonna have to carry a copy of that tube adapter sheet at all times!

I usaually always use the matching yoke and carefully mark the rings before I remove them.
 
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