BK 467 & K4900 with no HRT reading

robgest

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I have a WG K4900 on a 19VLTP22 inside my Burgertime. The monitor was just recaped and looks good but I wanted to mess with my 467. Hooked it up with my new CR23, but when I went to set the HRT....nothing. The needle will not move. I played with another monitor a month ago using my 31 and everything was great. What would you think to do?
 
Well, the obvious thing to do would be to check to make sure your "new" cr-23 adapter is actually good and making good connection to the tube.

BUT - when on SETUP, you should be able to adjust the heater voltage to 6.3 regardless of whether it is connected to the tube or not. If you can't, you may have to open up your BK467 and look for a loose connection...
 
BK 467 with no HRT reading

Were you able to fix the problem? If so, what did you do? I have a BK 467 as well. Just rejuvenated 2 monitors in a dual Hydro Thunder. All went well, bad guns cleaned, everything worked perfectly.

Then 10 minutes later I tried to rejuvenate another game. Turned on the 467, and the top 3 leakage lamps were dimly glowing, and I was also unable to set the HTR voltage. I was able to set the other voltage to 50, but the needle on the HTR meter will not budge.

I thought it might be the tube I was connected to, so I tried another monitor, and still cannot set the HTR.

I opened up the 467, checked the connections around the HTR pot, all continuity good with the leads off the POT, and the left-most meter leads.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!
 
I ended up pulling the thing apart and found a cold joint (can't remember the spot) so I just reheated a bunch of the solder joints and put it back together. It worked great and still does. Now my new problem is finding anyone that can explain how a Knight KG-685 works. LOL
 
You are probably right. I just tried it again, and it is working intermittently. It worked long enough to do one more monitor, and now its dead again.

I opened up the casing to poke around, but everything is so tightly packed inside the unit, and all the wires and components are so frail, it looks as it everything will disintegrate if I am too forceful with it.

I'll reflow a bunch of the joints and see what happens.

Thanks for the help, I appreciate it.
 
Update

Update on this for anyone with a similar problem. I pulled the unit out of the black casing, and examined the back of the PCB. I found the solder joints around R16 and R23 to be suspect, and all of the solder spots along CONN. A, and CONN. B looked like cold joints. I resoldered the 3 joints at R23, the 3 at R16, all from A1 to A24 along connector A, and all from B1 to B24 along connector B. Since then, the HTR dial has worked every time.

I will also mention that it might be a good idea to check the calibration of the heater voltage and tracking while you have the unit open, especially if you just resoldered a bunch of bad spots at R16 and R23. The instructions for how to do so are in the service manual linked in Mr. Layton's post above. Thank you Ken for the links.
 
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