Biscuit Joiner

Saw this video @CharlieG. How do you like it? Seems like a great price just concerned with quality. I don't do a lot of biscuit joining so I really don't want to splurge on a Dewalt, though I love the brand.

I actually quite like it. I had been meaning to get a biscuit joiner for a while and this was the perfect excuse for it. It's a lot easier to use than I thought, and fun too. If I was doing this professionally, I'd probably get a heavier duty one, but it seems perfect for occasional use.
 
I actually quite like it. I had been meaning to get a biscuit joiner for a while and this was the perfect excuse for it. It's a lot easier to use than I thought, and fun too. If I was doing this professionally, I'd probably get a heavier duty one, but it seems perfect for occasional use.
What size biscuits did you use? 20? 10?
 
I'm going to need to pick one up as well. My T&F has both bottom front corners busted off. A previous owner cut out square sections and tried to glue new pieces in but only used glue so they didn't hold. I'll have to do it right at some point when I get around to doing some resto work on that one .
 
I'm the same. "Buy the best tool you can afford" Is my mantra -but.......I temper that with some common sense (usually). I have a deWalt biscuit joiner. I've had it about 10 yrs. Haven't used it in 2 years, and I've cut maybe 200 pockets with it -it's hardly broken in !!

So, in retrospect, I could have bought the cheapest out there and for all I use it, it'd last a lifetime. I don't really why, but I have the DeWalt and it'll last me a bunch of lifetimes.
 
I just use a slot cutter on my router. The important thing is that you will need to not only mark your work that you will be mating together, you also need to mark the center of your router. Then i just buy a box of biscuits.
This. If you have a t-molding slot bit, you probably bought it in a set (or at least I did). So I use a thicker bit for joining, and just make matching width "biscuits":

Bonus: No additional tools to store.
 

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I like this idea. For a few time we may need it to restore some cabs. I'm all for buying another DeWalt tool but a biscuit joiner seems like a very special tool to have around. I still have my cheap ass harbor freight brad nailer and it performs great. Been waiting for it to die to I can but a nice one. Lol
This. If you have a t-molding slot bit, you probably bought it in a set (or at least I did). So I use a thicker bit for joining, and just make matching width "biscuits":

Bonus: No additional tools to store.
 
I think the only thing I would do differently next time is just cut a whole slot on each side and put a long strip to match. No issues with lining up anything.
 
This. If you have a t-molding slot bit, you probably bought it in a set (or at least I did). So I use a thicker bit for joining, and just make matching width "biscuits":

Bonus: No additional tools to store.

To clarify, if you are using any standard slot cutter you obviously want to make sure that first, your slot cutters kerf cut matches the thickness biscuits you plan to use and then of course you also want to measure out the radius of the cut. If you use a standard slot cutter that is a little off You may need to ever do slightly move your router to the left and right just a tiny fraction to allow your biscuit to sit properly.

They do sell specific slot cutters for specific standardized biscuits. These of course sell for a small premium but are still a sound investment if you don't want to hassle around with precise measuring of slot cutters. You can get those yoniko brand cutters for less than 20 bucks. I've used their router bits before and they are better than the warrior and bauer brand from harbor freight

Beyond that you have very little to worry about and this is one of the easiest and most economically sound ways of adding biscuit joinery to your restoration arsenal.

I like this idea. For a few time we may need it to restore some cabs. I'm all for buying another DeWalt tool but a biscuit joiner seems like a very special tool to have around. I still have my cheap ass harbor freight brad nailer and it performs great. Been waiting for it to die to I can but a nice one. Lol

to me it was both a financial and space-saving issue. I simply didn't feel justified paying a premium for a tool that I would rarely use even if it was very useful and secondly I prefer to keep multiple routers on hand for different applications. I'd rather use what limited tool space I have to keep more routers which I could use for different applications. I'm not ashamed to say that I am a bit of a router snob. I'd rather have one more router than one biscuit joiner.
 
You guys all make this biscuit joining bally hoo sound like everyone knows how to do it.
Cabinet maker chiming in: biscuit joinery is for indexing and alignment, not structural integrity.

They're optimally used to align non-structural elements that have different dimensional stability from what ever base it's being attached to. E.g. breadboard edging on a counter top, or mitred trim on a carcass.

Slots are cut on two joining surfaces which accept a biscuit, a wafer that swells a predetermined amount when glue is applied, to mate components.

To answer the OP's question, we use Porter Cable and Makita joiners in my shop. In the 10 years we've been in production only the blades have worn out. YMMV.
 
Cabinet maker chiming in: biscuit joinery is for indexing and alignment, not structural integrity.

They're optimally used to align non-structural elements that have different dimensional stability from what ever base it's being attached to. E.g. breadboard edging on a counter top, or mitred trim on a carcass.

Slots are cut on two joining surfaces which accept a biscuit, a wafer that swells a predetermined amount when glue is applied, to mate components.

To answer the OP's question, we use Porter Cable and Makita joiners in my shop. In the 10 years we've been in production only the blades have worn out. YMMV.
So what is the best way to join two pieces of wood for the arcade cabinet restorer hobbyist? Dowels? Dominos?
 
Hah, fortunately I just answered the same question in a PM, in reference to the video.

If I had to do the same operation, I would make the initial cut exactly the same. Then I'd make another cut twice the thickness of the material above the initial cut, and half the depth. Then I'd make the opposite cut in the patch piece, making what is called a lap joint. 3x as strong, half the time as sinking biscuits, can be used in structural elements, and self indexing. It does require the use of a router, or a tedious amount of kerf cuts with the same circular saw.
 

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Hah, fortunately I just answered the same question in a PM, in reference to the video.

If I had to do the same operation, I would make the initial cut exactly the same. Then I'd make another cut twice the thickness of the material above the initial cut, and half the depth. Then I'd make the opposite cut in the patch piece, making what is called a lap joint. 3x as strong, half the time as sinking biscuits, can be used in structural elements, and self indexing. It does require the use of a router, or a tedious amount of kerf cuts with the same circular saw.

I've done this with mixed results at best. You'll never get away with this using particle board. The remaining material will either disintegrate or flail outwards.
 
This is how we splice all sheetgoods from veneer core to hardboard. There are a number of potential reasons your joints may fail when performing this operation - dull router bits, wrong type of glue for the material, not cutting far enough from the damaged substrate, etc. - but I couldn't be more specific without seeing the work.
 
This is how we splice all sheetgoods from veneer core to hardboard. There are a number of potential reasons your joints may fail when performing this operation - dull router bits, wrong type of glue for the material, not cutting far enough from the damaged substrate, etc. - but I couldn't be more specific without seeing the work.

I've had good results doing this on plywood. Terrible results doing this with particle board. I'm assuming this is because of the nature of how particle board is pressed and glued together. Did it twice and both times the material was flimsy and bowed out slightly.
 
I've had good results doing this on plywood. Terrible results doing this with particle board. I'm assuming this is because of the nature of how particle board is pressed and glued together. Did it twice and both times the material was flimsy and bowed out slightly.
It's because you didn't use popsicle sticks. @CharlieG
 
I'm assuming this is because of the nature of how particle board is pressed and glued together.
You are a wealth of knowledge on cabinets and their variations and a valuable resource... but you are mistaken in this case.

As we say in the FGC: skill issue, bro.

More likely, you're using a water based glue, which would be what causes the added moisture in the substrate.
 
TL - DR...

Biscuits are used for fine alignment and cabinet work. Very little strength, really only rely on the glue planes.

Pocket hole screws are used for strength and have a significant mechanical advantage.

For arcade cabinet applications, I can't imagine a situation where a biscuit joint would be stronger / preferable than a pocket hole screw.

I'll probably be told I'm wrong 100x LOL!
 
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No, you're exactly right. Just a PITA to deal with the holes and shrinkage of fillers. Lap joint is a a little more front end work, but the sanding is quick and it doesn't require another specialty tool/special screws.
 
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