"Bionic" APB Triac board rebuild- Cheaper / Stronger!!

Teknotoyz

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"Bionic" APB Triac board rebuild- Cheaper / Stronger!!

"Gentlemen, we can rebuild it, we have the technology, we have the capability to make the worlds first bionic Triac board. APB will be that game, better than it was before. Cheaper to rebuild, Stronger, less failure than before!"

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Just ordered parts from Mouser Electronics to modify the Triac board.
No longer will the old, expensive, weak, silver triac's be used.

I am planning to upgrade the triac (2N5756) to a modern beefier part number (MAC15SDG).

The original Triac had a 2.5 amp RMS current with a 25 amp surge (non-repetative!). Cost is ~$5 each
The new Triac will have a 15 amp RMS with a 120 amp surge! Cost is $1.49 each :D
Remember that a 60w bulb pulls about 0.5 amps, but inrush current on an incandescent lamp can be 12-15 times that of the steady state (7.5 amps on the high end). Keep in mind, that EVERY time the light bulb flashes, it has an inrush exceeding the RMS value of the original triac. No question why these fail over time.

Why am I doing this? Well, my triac board is defunct, I need to fix it, and honestly, this is cheaper to do.
I also want to confirm a Triac part # for fellow APB owners as I had a hard time finding information.
 

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The Mouser Electronics order arrived today and I decided to change only the Triacs.
Got everything installed and working, just be sure to clean off any flux residue!
This Triac is a TO-220 package and does NOT have the same pin configuration, be sure to modify the board to accept it.
I drilled a hole for one, and redirected some of the traces on the other one. Very easy to do with a dremel tool.

Overall, A lower cost solution at about $10 for parts and shipping!

The parts:
Link to the Triac: ($1.49 each) Manufacturer Part #: MAC15SDG
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=MAC15SDGvirtualkey58410000virtualkey863-MAC15SDG

Link to the heatsink ($0.50 each)
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=230-75ABvirtualkey56720000virtualkey567-230-75AB

This video is with the new Triacs installed (ignore the fan noise)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NITq54w9SKo!
 

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Warning!

I managed to get in too much of a rush to try the new board and didn't clean off the flux.
Granted, my flux is old and filthy (new can from the store for me soon!!)

So one of the lights started staying on... I thought it was broken again at first, then a bit of smell.
The MT1 and MT2 terminals had shorted allowing power to flow around the triac.
So be sure to clean the board!
I added a dab of liquid electric tape after cleaning just to be sure.
I don't want it to happen again (due to a spider, dust, or anything else).
 

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Is the red one supposed to stay lit more like that? Seems like the blue is strobing, but the red is just getting dimmer. (Or is it supposed to be that way?)

Wade
 
Is the red one supposed to stay lit more like that? Seems like the blue is strobing, but the red is just getting dimmer. (Or is it supposed to be that way?)

Wade

It is actually blinking, much easier to see if the marquee is off (or clean for that matter!)
It may be the angle too as there is a single compartment behind the marquee.
 
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I have two boards I need to replace the triacs on. Is this still the preferred method/upgrade? Do I just have to drill one hole on the board (MT1) for the lower triac and connect the trace?
Also, did your heatsink from Mouser include the mounting screw?
Thanks for the info!
 
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Bump on this thread to see if anyone has a better idea about repairing these...

Otherwise, I'm breaking a $10 dollar bill at mouser!!
 
I thank the OP for this thread, helped me fix my APB!

I bought the parts below from: https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/

MAC15SD TRIAC, 400V, 15A $1.25 each
507302 Heat Sink, TO-220 $0.25 each
HSCPD Heatsink Compound, 0.4g packet $0.15 each

I managed to mount my new triacs without removing trace from the original pcb, here are pics of my finished work. (FYI Screws not included with heat sinks)

DSC06948_zps36801480.jpg


DSC06951_zps35445957.jpg
 
Is the red one supposed to stay lit more like that? Seems like the blue is strobing, but the red is just getting dimmer. (Or is it supposed to be that way?)

Wade

I just did the repair and what you describe is exactly what is happening to mine. One strobes all the way off and one but the other just dims. Any ideas how to fix that so they both turn all the way off when in demo mode. When playing (unlike in the video) one still stays on dim they don't both turn all the way off). Most people wouldn't notice, still looks way better than when neither blinked, but I'd like to get it fixed 100%.

Is it worth trying to change out the C1 and C2 on the board? Any suggestions?
 
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Just did this repair tonight and it worked perfectly. Lights flash as they should now. I also replaced the incandecent bulbs with LEDs. Just an FYI the triac linked is now obsolete. I replaced mine with MAC15MGOS-ND which can be found here: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/littelfuse-inc/MAC15MG/MAC15MGOS-ND/1477024

Hey Arcadius! I'm trying to repair my marquee right now but I think my problems are board related. Any chance you could measure voltage at the LED1 and LED2 wires that went to the triac for signal to see what is happening when the siren button is pressed. Mine measures .8v no matter what.
 
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