Better Med Res monitor: 25k5515 or 25k8000?

hatrick

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Which monitor between the k8000 and k5515 (25" med resolution) is the most relaible montior? Why?
I don't have experience with either monitor, I'm just curious which is the better of the two.
 
I dunno. The K8000 is newer, but that doesn't always mean more reliable as far as long-term usage. If I were to buy one, I'd look into how available parts, documentation, and repair help is for both...
 
Is this for a Race Drivin'?

I'd say neither; get a Nanao MS8. Otherwise probably go for the 5515.

the K8000 was only around for a couple years and only really found it's way into a few games such as Virtua Racing, Virtua Fighter, Microprose (BOTSS & F15) & some Race Drivin's. It requires two AC voltages to operate, 120VAC and I believe 30VAC, so it is not something you can just drop into a game that wasn't designed for a K8000 originally.

All K8000s I've seen came with Zenith CRTs; The earlier chassis with green PCBs always seem to have solder issues on the flyback & H-out yoke connector, but the CRTs are fine. The later yellow PCB version found in the Sega games is the one you want, but they often seem to have failing CRTs.

K8000 is probably more reliable than the later WGs like the U5000, at least -- the neck boards are far more robust.
 
Is this for a Race Drivin'?
Good guess ;)

I have both the 5515 and the k8000, so I was trying to figure out what is the better of the two to use. I have very little experience with 25" monitors. I think the k8000 has a green PCB if I remember correctly.

Thanks for the replies.
 
ahh, well maybe just try the K8000 first, as long as your game was made to use it -- it'll have a 6-pin connector with 4 wires in it for the power. If it just has a 2-pin then use the 5515.

Don't bother powering the K8000 up without ensuring the solder joints are ok and the fuses on the power supply board are good (the small board mounted on the side of the chassis).
 
K8000, heh heh.

we got a deluxe Ridge Racer with a 33" RCA tube and K8000. had the game in storage for all of 2009 and half of 2010. one day I gathered up enough nerve to resurrect it and noticed that the brightness would vary on it. I figured it was also due for a cap kit, so I did caps and a flyback on it.

EVERY. SINGLE. SOLDER PAD. where the flyback goes got burned off. I had to do a number of hacks, but got it to work. the cap kit is no picnic, cause there's no standard kit that comes with a sheet of cap locations/values... you have to figure this all out on your own.

about a little more than a year after I did all that work on it, the monitor had a blank picture. I could still hear it turn on, but it was like the heater circuit took a shit on it. so I had to pull the chassis and inspected everything on it and found like a big blue resistor or something where the solder pads, also, burned off. so I reworked a lot of shit on it to get it up again, but was successful.

I'd probably do the 5515, I've had sufficient luck with the U5000s I've got, and I have a K7500 that's just got a shitty tube, that's about the only drawback to those is the tubes. K8000 is just a major pain in the ass. its design was to make it easier to replace faulty components (hence the separate deflection and power supply boards) but it just introduced a lot of unnecessary variables into the equation. and I'm glad I finally know why those things need two isos, lol, 120 and 30V!
 
Wow, the k8000's sound like they could be a nightmare. I'll rebuild the k8000 and see how it turns out. It currently works, but needs a capkit and possibly a pot replaced/resoldered.
 
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yeah, capping just requires a little bit more finesse with them lol.

if I didn't get it across to you yet, check solder joints on that bitch, thoroughly lol
 
if I didn't get it across to you yet, check solder joints on that bitch, thoroughly lol

So wait, are you saying I need to check the solder joints? :D
I usually do that on any monitor pcb I work on. Some of them look like they were soldered by monkeys.
 
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