Best way to repair ripped Atari vinyl?

[m_mcgovern]

I am in the process of restoring my Star Wars cockpit and I need some suggestions/advice on repairing some areas of ripped or missing spots of vinyl. Some of the thoughts that have crossed my mind (with some drawbacks)....

- make the irregular missing vinyl piece more geometric and patch with new vinyl (probably end up seeing seams)
- trim the loose edges of the ripped vinyl, mask off a slightly larger area and use bondo or something else to even out the height, then prime and paint (could have color matching problems to original vinyl or would have to paint the larger area to get uniform color)
- just paint the bare wood (would most likely see the uneven vinyl edges at the point of touch up and could have color matching problem)

Any suggestions on which of the above techniques have been used successfully?

Or, is there something else I haven't considered?

Any and all advice, help, tips are appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[Talon2000]

Pics would help.

Need to see what you are talking about.

 

[Phetishboy]

Pics would help.

Need to see what you are talking about.

I have seen what you are talking about many times. You need to treat it like a small dent or spot repair on a vehicle. isolate the area and focus. Mask off a border around the repair, use a skim coat of automotive vinyl upholstery repair or bondo, prime and feather paint or spray your semi black, try to seamlessly blend the repair into the rest of the cab. Color isn't your only enemy, height, depth and texture are as well. Blend the ridges, just like when you stencil.

 

[orion3311]

I'm interested in this as well - I recall a recent answer by Rich talking about a solution that sounded good but I'm busy at work so I cant look it up.

 

[m_mcgovern]

Pics would help.

Need to see what you are talking about.

Here ya go. The first two are mostly what I am trying to repair: small areas of missing vinyl.

This last pic is the worst of it.

On this, I was thinking that since I will be bondo-ing the edge anyway, I'll slather some bondo over the missing vinyl to even it out. Then, prime and paint this entire section (it's the top of the cabinet) However, looking for confirmation that this is the best way to go...

 

[ArcRevival]

Drop the game off at my house and I will have it ready in about 10 years

Seriously, this isn't the exact same issue, but I did a skin graft on this Armor Attack :

http://arcade-revival.blogspot.com/2008/08/armor-attacked.html

 

[prOk]

I need to get all my old tutorials back online.

For stuff like that I use a product called evercoat metal glaze to fill really tiny details for painting. Amazing stuff, works like bondo polishes like plastic.

 

[Riptor]

Everything evercoat makes is good stuff. Its like bondo for the royal family.

 

[demogo]

I need to get all my old tutorials back online.

For stuff like that I use a product called evercoat metal glaze to fill really tiny details for painting. Amazing stuff, works like bondo polishes like plastic.

Allow me to second that idea of you putting your tutorials back online.

Love to see your tutorials on this stuff. I know it's not rocket science but the price of failure can be very high.

I have two variations of this same problem -- a few scratches and torn areas on my white spy hunter sideart and also I have a torn area of the white vinyl right through where your replacement sideart will be going and I'm sure that i'll have to do something special to make your sideart adhere correctly to that spot.

 

[m_mcgovern]

For stuff like that I use a product called evercoat metal glaze to fill really tiny details for painting. Amazing stuff, works like bondo polishes like plastic.

I remember you talking it up before...is that something that can be bought in a brick and mortor store, or is that an online order only?


@ArcRevival- I actually remember reading about that before...but I forgot. That is a pretty neat idea. Unfortunately, my vinyl "scars" are in pretty visible areas. I'm worried that matching vinyl edges will look bad....but I just don't know. Which is another vote for prOk getting tutorials back online....or at least the one about the evercoat!

 

[johnvv]

I remember you talking it up before...is that something that can be bought in a brick and mortor store, or is that an online order only?

Evercoat products can be found at your local auto parts/auto supply store. Don't know about the national chain stores, but most cities have a few 'high-end' auto supply stores that the local shops use. This type of store should be able to help you select the right Evercoat products.

Check you local phone listing and call around to a some auto parts/supply stores and see they carry Evercoat.

Here is what the container looks like for the product prOk notes:

Evercoat Metal Glaze

Feather Fill G2 is the product you can use for a paint primer and leveling base for full cabinet jobs. Note that these are 2-part products, so be sure to get the hardener.

 

[JeffC]

I'm glad I ran across this thread. It helps a bit with the issue I was trying to describe in my posting about how to touch up side-art. (http://forums.klov.com/showthread.php?t=89271)

On the DOT, the entire side is covered with a thin decal. In several places, the decal is ripped off, exposing a surface that looks like cardboard below.

Before these posts I'd never heard of frisket paper, and hadn't really thought of how to mask and match up paints, as well as the heights and texture of my art.

I've actually reached out to a local graphics company to see if they would reprint the entire decal, but haven't heard back yet.