Best way to fix this?

modessitt

Volunteer: Encyclopedia Submission Moderator
Joined
Mar 22, 2007
Messages
33,414
Reaction score
325
Location
Austin, Texas
It seems it got lost in my Wood Hardener thread, so here's a new thread.

I plan to sand, primer, and restencil, but I don't know if anything else will be necessary to make sure this disappears - and doesn't come back:

SDC12022.jpg


Some research talks about using an elastic primer like Peel Stop so that the pain itself won't crack even it the plywood below does.

Any tips or tricks?
 
I had a very similar issue on a Ms. Pac. What I did was sand it down to bare wood, then I used bondo-glaze (which is a finisher and is much thinner) to get down into those cracks. I applied it like a skim coat. Then sanded smooth and primered.

I got mine a Autozone:
7100876_bnd_907_pri_larg.jpg




..
 
Last edited:
The paint cracking was likely due to humidity and conditions storing a game in a warehouse for who knows how long. As far as something being restored and being kept in a climate controlled environment, it's very unlikely you'd experience those same paint issues ever again.

Also, consider these were painted for economy's sake, in a factory.. You could repaint the game, with the goal being a finish that 'looks' original, yet blow the original away in terms of prep, paint quality, etc..
 
I assume that is Williams Moon Patrol...I've seen this issue with most Williams Cabs...Those lines are usually the cracking of the clear coat they used over the stencil paint to give the stencils an even sheen that eventually causes those cracks to the paint...if you sand the paint off usually the wood is fine underneath the coating of paint and sometimes the clear coat itself..I have a older bubbles cab with the exact same lines you have pictures..when I sand with light sand paper and take off the remaining clear coat they used over stencils..the paint underneath is fine and lines are gone...I guess that clear didn't have the shelf life of some paints from other cabs..and thus causes that cracking to the paint...sometimes it cracks all the way down to the other colors of paint and sometimes its just the clear..but its hard to lightly sand the clear and not ruin the other colors when your talking about the entire cab.
 
Last edited:
I guess if your cab was nice enough you could use some very high grade sand paper and lightly take off the remaining clear and then put a new fresh coat of clear...it would be time consuming but perhaps worth it if you have a cab that is othewise in very nice shape..otherwise better to just re stencil if you can.
 
Okay, how many layers of Hi-Build primer should I expect to use to get rid of this completely? Areas that I had to bondo are perfectly smooth, but some areas still have these cracks. It seems to be getting better, but I want them completely gone before I paint. I currently have done two coats of spray primer. You think a few more coats will do it?
 
I had some cracks/lines in the grain on my Stargate cabinet I just painted. Although I sanded down to bare wood for various fixes and wiped with Naptha, when spraying primer on the 'cracks', the cracks wouldn't fill and repelled the paint.

Best advice I can give is fill them with a skim coat of something, then sand back down, THEN primer. For the worst of the cracks, I did a thin skim of bondo, then sanded back down with the 80 grit, leaving the filler in those cracks. The primer went on fine after that.

Primer fills imperfections, but don't rely on primer for this - fill/glaze/whatever, then primer.
 
you wont be able to fix that if its in the paint, thats like taking a sharpy to a scratched spot on a black control panel. It will flake again but like joeycuda replied with, you will unlikely see that happen again in a controlled environment. IE, not a barn. You can see were the particle board is starting to bubble... That needs to be replaced.
 
Back
Top Bottom