Best way to clean playfield + straighten plastics?

kencinder

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Started stripping the playfield on the Phoenix I just got, and I have looked around for suggestions on cleaning playfields.

Some different suggestions, some conflicting though 1 thing seemed to remain, using Novus #2 and #1 (Which I have) and absolutely no water.
What sort of material should I use? Would your standard fare sponge work? Rags not a good idea? (ie; bath towels I've turned into rags).
Should I clean with something else BEFORE starting with the novus, to get rid of grime and general dirt?

Playfield condition - No chipping paint, just 2 tiny wear spots and LOTS of ball swirls that need to go. I just want to clean this good, without doing any damage to the paint as it's in awesome shape...and it's older than me!

Also some of my plastics have a slight warp to them upwards, I'm guessing from the heat of the lamps under them. How do I straighten them without damaging the art on them?
 
Also some of my plastics have a slight warp to them upwards, I'm guessing from the heat of the lamps under them. How do I straighten them without damaging the art on them?

I used (gently) a heat gun on low until the plastics relax then put them between 2 books till cool.Worked great !!!
 
Thanks guys, the consensus here and other places seems to be Novus+soft rag and a magic eraser. I was worried about a rag being too rough, but a magic eraser is like fine sandpaper...so I'm just being too worried I guess.

Just getting my camera charged, so I can take pics of the playfield, so I can just yank it all off and look at my pictures to put it all back on with new rubbers properly.
 
For straightening plastics, you can put them between 2 heavy pieces of glass (pf glass works well, although big). Run over the top glass with a clothing iron set to medium-high for about 5-10 minutes (keep moving the iron), then let it cool.
 
1) magic eraser
2) novus #2
3) wax

2 More quick questions, if you don't mind ...

1. Seems like Novus #2 is the most commonly used. What are #1 and #3 used for and should I bother even picking up #1 and #3?

2. When you say wax, you mean something like millwax?

Thanks in advance. Knowledge is power!

Steve
MM
 
2 More quick questions, if you don't mind ...

1. Seems like Novus #2 is the most commonly used. What are #1 and #3 used for and should I bother even picking up #1 and #3?

2. When you say wax, you mean something like millwax?

Thanks in advance. Knowledge is power!

Steve
MM

Please mods, WE NEED A STICKY NOW!!! :)

1. Novus 1 is like windex. I wouldn't waste your money IMHO. Novus 3 is like rubbing compound. Stick with just #2

2. Millwax is not wax. The name sucks, it's more solvents than anything else. Don't use Millwax, use Caranuba wax.
 
RE: straightening plastics

I used the oven method. It was pretty much dummy proof as long as I sat there and watched for the droop. Then I just sandwiched then under heavy stuff and let them cool.
 
RE: straightening plastics

I used the oven method. It was pretty much dummy proof as long as I sat there and watched for the droop. Then I just sandwiched then under heavy stuff and let them cool.

I agree I do the same thing. Set the oven to 250 and watch the plastics drop. It's not a quick process, the last set of plastics I did (Firepower) took about 6-8 minutes to flatten.
 
1. Seems like Novus #2 is the most commonly used. What are #1 and #3 used for and should I bother even picking up #1 and #3?

I'll second the earlier comments. I only use #2.

2. When you say wax, you mean something like millwax?

Nope. I don't use millwax at all. I use mothers "pure carnuba" paste wax but any good automotive wax will do.

Thanks in advance. Knowledge is power!

No problem :)
 
After reading the posts I would like to give some input.

Novus 2 is a staple for cleaning and works well, on plastics and some use it on playfields, I personally have novus 2 but also love Mcguires Scratch X. This stuff is great for grime.

As far as wax goes, i have millwax but use it very little, it works for a quick cleaning/waxing but as many others said it has very little wax in it so in turn it does not protect nearly as well as using a hard paste wax. I again use Mcguires. Also Millwax contains solvent which can cause your mylar coverings to begin releasing.

Magic eraser is a wonderful tool, but trust me when I say a little too long and you will go through the paint. I would not advise using a melamine sponge on anything unless it is ball swirls or you cannot get it any other way. Reality is you are sanding you playfield. I would just use scratch X or Novus 2.

As far as rags I only use microfiber cloths, they are dirt cheap! FYI on older machines millwax works great for the initial cleaning, then wax. Steve young told me specifically not to use Novus 2 on older machines.

Good luck
 
You mentioned water in your original post. We don't use water on playfields because the moisture is absorbed by the wood and can cause more damage. If you want to use something like that on a paper towel, use rubbing alcohol while has little if any moisture to it.
If you use a Magic Eraser, go easy. Don't put too much pressure on it or it will go through the paint. Magic Erasers are essentially superfine sandpaper.
 
Steve young told me specifically not to use Novus 2 on older machines.

Novus #2 is proven to work fine on any playfield. This discussion has come and gone many times.

With Magic Eraser you really have to just use judgment as you go. There are times when you need to be gentle or you'll remove paint and there are times when you'll be rubbing so hard your fingers will hurt. It really depends on the playfield. That said... I totally agree that it should be used with caution.
 
I agree I do the same thing. Set the oven to 250 and watch the plastics drop. It's not a quick process, the last set of plastics I did (Firepower) took about 6-8 minutes to flatten.
I agree with Metahugh and Shardian.
I too used the oven method on my Firepower playfield inserts which were extremly warped and it worked great, although I could not flatten between anything as they are not flat pieces. I just layed the side that needed to be flat on a flat surface and let them cool. No distortion to the plastics or print, but just DO NOT walk away from the oven or you may regret it.
250 degree is probably safer although I used 275 at NO LONGER than 5 minutes.
I think it is a more controlled method than using a heat gun. IMHO
 
I agree with Metahugh and Shardian.
I too used the oven method on my Firepower playfield inserts which were extremly warped and it worked great, although I could not flatten between anything as they are not flat pieces. I just layed the side that needed to be flat on a flat surface and let them cool. No distortion to the plastics or print, but just DO NOT walk away from the oven or you may regret it.
250 degree is probably safer although I used 275 at NO LONGER than 5 minutes.
I think it is a more controlled method than using a heat gun. IMHO

I'll be trying this out tonight when I get off work, hopefully I won't fall asleep while they are cooking.
 
Good read, confirms my suspicions that current car finish product is better then old ass mill wax, but mill wax is a decent cleaner, but def smells hella like petro solvents
 
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