Best way for the unskilled to get a recap preformed?

spmahn

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Best way for the unskilled to get a recap preformed?

About 9 months ago I picked up a Sunset Riders cabinet that seemed to have spent much of it's life on location outdoors in some fashion. When I first got it, it was displaying the telltale signs of the need for a recap, a wavy picture, vertical lines, faded picture on half the screen, etc. It wasn't too bad, but unfortunately it's getting progressively worse. Now the picture seems to go in and out of focus at will, and no amount of fiddling with the knobs seem to fix it.

So that leads me to my question, what would be the best way for someone like me who does not have the skills, time, or patience to do it himself to get his monitor recapped? While I've learned quite a bit about repairing the game since I've got it, a cap kit is not something I would be comfortable doing on my own, unless there were no other options. Is there anyone out there I could send the board to that would be willing to do the recap for me? For that matter, is there anywhere where I could find instructions on how to remove the board from the monitor in the first place?

The label on my monitor reads WG425970, which doesn't seem to be listed on the Bob Roberts site. I've included some pictures for reference. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 

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The easiest way would be to pay someone else to do it. You have a K7000 monitor. it has the white-knob flyback and usually those need to be replaced even if they are still working currently.

I charge $50 + parts (caps, flyback if needed, any other parts) + shipping (both ways) to repair a K7000 monitor....
 
Thanks for the quick reply. Anywhere where I can get instructions on how to remove the circuit board and what exactly I would need to include?
 
You just need to remove the chassis. Here is a quick step-by-step:

1) With the power off, make sure that the tube is discharged. Attach an alligator clip to the monitor frame and the other end to a flat head screwdriver with an insulated handle. Then slide the tip of the screwdriver under the suction cup on the tube above the chassis. Don't be surprised if you don't hear any spark, as the K7000 has an auto-discharge feature, but a chassis with problems may not have discharged the tube. Better safe than sorry.

2) Uplug the power connector.

3) Unplug the video connector on the right edge.

4) Remove the neckboard from the back of the tube by pulling straight back from the tube. Do NOT wiggle it side to side, as any lateral stress on the neck can cause it to crack or break. If you hear a SHHHH then you broke it and it's now a paperweight. If it has never been removed before, it might have some glue or silicone holding it to the neck. If pulling straight back doesn't cause the glue to break free, use a razor blade to slice through it.

5) Remove the suction cup from the tube. You may need to stick your screwdriver under there to push one of the pins in enough to get it to pop out. I usually just grab the cup with my hand and wiggle it back and forth until it pops out, but many others are paranoid about the spark possibility.

6) There is a black wire attached to one corner of the neckboard and goes to one corner of the tube. This must be removed in order to remove the chassis. Most people just cut it, then either resolder it, install a quick-connect, or use a wirenut to reattach it when reinstalling the chassis. (It MUST be connected for your monitor to work!) Some people prefer to desolder it from the neckboard and then reattach it later. Do whichever you wish.

7) Use a 1/4" nut driver and remove the two screws on the left and right corners. Put them somewhere you will remember (like in a cup in the bottom of the cab).

8) Pull the chassis slightly away from the tube. You will see a 2-pin connector along the middle back edge of the chassis. This is your degauss connector. Unplug it.

9) Your yoke connector is located directly behind the flyback. You can follow the red/blue/green/yellow wires from the yoke down to it. Unplug it.

Your chassis should now come out easily. Sometimes there is a ground wire from the side wall to the monitor frame, and you will have to remove a screw to get it off.

Once you have it off, if you want someone to work on it for you, contact them, get their address, pack it well (completely wrapped in bubblewrap and put in a box with at least 1" of space around it for packing materials like peanuts or more bubble wrap - a Priority Mail Large Flat-Rate box works well), include a note of whatever symptoms you know about as well as any work you might have done already, include any parts you may have already purchased for it, and send it off.



There are others here who also do the work at various prices, so feel free to shop around. Or ask for feedback as to my K7000 repair skills. I've done them for several members. DreamTR has had me do a bunch for his mall arcade...
 
It appears your neckboard may still have the factory glue on it. Like Mod said, just cut down through it with a razor blade.

The black wire I circled in your pic is the wire that runs from the neckboard to the tube, which is easies to just cut and install male/female insluated spades.

The two red wires I circled are your degaussing coil wires. Unblug them from the back of the board.

The bundle of different colored wires I circled are your yoke wires.

BTW, I rule w/ MS Paint :)
 

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Thanks for the help guys. I was able to remove the neckboard without much trouble, although it looks like the connector on the next itself it slightly cracked, doesn't seem like a big deal though. I will finish disassembling it this weekend and hopefully get back to you about getting the repairs done.
 
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