Best solution for minor edge repair?

Spunkmeyer

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Hi all,

I'm planning to re-do the wiring harness edge connector on my Centipede, but when I pulled it off I noticed that the ground connection is partially burnt. The previous owner had solved this by placing a small wire inside the connector that bridged across to the metallic edge, but I'd like to solve that kludge if possible.

Suggestions? I don't have any copper trace foil, and don't know if that's necessarily the best solution for such a small area.

Thanks in advance for your help... I've never done anything like this before and want to make sure I do the right thing!

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I can see the +5 test point in the picture. There should be one of those for Ground on the board as well. Using crimp on spade connectors, you can run a wire from the Ground test point on the PCB to the ground on the AR2 board directly, really a jumper, providing more of a ground path. Not sure how to address the burnt PCB, but I would replace the power and ground pins on the harness edge connector. Bob R sells them. I know that Tempest uses split pins, but not sure what that harness uses.
 
Hi all,

I'm planning to re-do the wiring harness edge connector on my Centipede, but when I pulled it off I noticed that the ground connection is partially burnt. The previous owner had solved this by placing a small wire inside the connector that bridged across to the metallic edge, but I'd like to solve that kludge if possible.

Suggestions? I don't have any copper trace foil, and don't know if that's necessarily the best solution for such a small area.

Thanks in advance for your help... I've never done anything like this before and want to make sure I do the right thing!



I would have to say to go with the copper foil repair, especially for power connections.
However, there is another method I have used successfully for repairing traces.
Go to your local auto dealer and purchase a bottle of repair fluid for the rear-heater element for a rear-window defrost system.
It is a 'paint on' conductive fluid used to bridge broken traces in the heater element.
I can be used to repair minor circuit breaks.
http://www.permatex.com/products/Au...uick_Grid_Rear_Window_Defogger_Repair_Kit.htm
 
I would have to say to go with the copper foil repair, especially for power connections.
However, there is another method I have used successfully for repairing traces.
Go to your local auto dealer and purchase a bottle of repair fluid for the rear-heater element for a rear-window defrost system.
It is a 'paint on' conductive fluid used to bridge broken traces in the heater element.
I can be used to repair minor circuit breaks.
http://www.permatex.com/products/Au...uick_Grid_Rear_Window_Defogger_Repair_Kit.htm

Brilliant!

Not only was I curious about the answer to the OP's question, I had no idea such a thing was available to fix my slightly scratched rear window defogger that hasn't worked correctly in 7-8 years. :)

I know what I'll be doing this weekend...
 
I would have to say to go with the copper foil repair, especially for power connections.
However, there is another method I have used successfully for repairing traces.
Go to your local auto dealer and purchase a bottle of repair fluid for the rear-heater element for a rear-window defrost system.
It is a 'paint on' conductive fluid used to bridge broken traces in the heater element.
I can be used to repair minor circuit breaks.
http://www.permatex.com/products/Au...uick_Grid_Rear_Window_Defogger_Repair_Kit.htm

While I agree that stuff works to fix broken traces (though solder works much better), I don't think it'd work well for a high current edge connector. It has a much higher resistance than copper, so there will be more voltage drop and more heat generated, and it can be scratched off of the material that it's applied to, so after putting the edge connector on, you'd likely remove a lot of the stuff in contact with the connector. It does work well for applying traces to material that you can't solder to though, like glass... for repairing things like pinball displays.

DogP
 
http://www.therealbobroberts.net/pace.html

May seem like overkill for one trace...but its the way to go. If you use copper and fold it over the board it will change its thickness. OK I guess if the board stays in the cab. If you brought it to me to test in mine I would not hook it up as I would not want to spread the pins in my connector out over our edge connector then end up with a potential prob back on my board. That also works the other way around. Testing a my board in your cab may seem flaky if the ground pins are making weak connections from being spread.
 
http://www.therealbobroberts.net/pace.html

May seem like overkill for one trace...but its the way to go. If you use copper and fold it over the board it will change its thickness. OK I guess if the board stays in the cab. If you brought it to me to test in mine I would not hook it up as I would not want to spread the pins in my connector out over our edge connector then end up with a potential prob back on my board. That also works the other way around. Testing a my board in your cab may seem flaky if the ground pins are making weak connections from being spread.

I've fixed plenty of burnt power pins with copper tape, and it can be done with no appreciable change in thickness.
Bob's method is a freakin' mess.... Although it might be the right choice for a novice with limited soldering skills.
 
One problem with the B. Roberts fix is the stack up on the connector edge then is a lot larger then normal.

Luckily my Asteroids mini board did not need a fix like that, but if it did, I probably would not be able to get the rear door on, as the connector would be pushing wires and all out too far for the door to close.
 
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One problem with the B. Robetrts fix is the stack up on the connector edge then is a lot larger then normal Luckily my Asteroids mini beard did not need a fix like that, but if it did, I probably would not be able to get the rear door on, as the connector would be pushing wires and all out too far for the door to close.

The other thing I don't like about Bob's method is that you're adding another connector... another voltage drop and potential future failure point.
For edge connectors that are completely trashed, I fasten a new fingerboard (with epoxy) and then solder the jumper wires.
 
Thanks for all the input so far. I'm tempted to just go the copper foil route... can anyone tell me where I can purchase it online? (I went to Radio Shack, and they didn't even know what I was referring to. That store is so useless.)

EDIT: I was able to find some on Amazon.com in a 1/4" width... I'm planning to trim it down as needed.
 
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Not sure on the foil but I would replace that terminal too.

That is if you have a terminal and crimper.
 
Thanks for all the input so far. I'm tempted to just go the copper foil route... can anyone tell me where I can purchase it online? (I went to Radio Shack, and they didn't even know what I was referring to. That store is so useless.)

EDIT: I was able to find some on Amazon.com in a 1/4" width... I'm planning to trim it down as needed.

If you're looking to buy it local, try a craft store or a stained glass supply store.
 
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