Best Part about Powdercoating Your CP's

Phetishboy

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When you install the overlay, and a bubble or wrinkle appears, you can peel the cpo up with no fear of ripping the paint up with it. And because the finish is nice and smooth, it sticks right back down again. Ask me how I know.
 
Awesome. When I get my carport enclosed, one of the things I'd like to do is get an oven for things like powder coating and vacuum forming (plastic).
 
When you install the overlay, and a bubble or wrinkle appears, you can peel the cpo up with no fear of ripping the paint up with it. And because the finish is nice and smooth, it sticks right back down again. Ask me how I know.

Where would I go for powder coating, can you give me an idea of where to start and just how expensive is it?
 
I was pleasantly shocked with how well the application went. Usually if a small bubble appears at the bend, you're kinda stuck waiting to see if it will relax or gas out. This way, you're able to fix the problem right away. Love it. Next time I just have to make sure all the burrs and dents are gone before powder coating.
 
Where would I go for powder coating, can you give me an idea of where to start and just how expensive is it?

Look up powder coaters in your yellow pages. Call them and tell them what you want done, ask for a rough estimate. I had about 25-30 pieces done at once, hinges, marquee and bezel brackets, bolts, metal plates, 5 coin doors and this control panel and it cost me $75 for sandblasting and powder coating.
 
Look up powder coaters in your yellow pages. Call them and tell them what you want done, ask for a rough estimate. I had about 25-30 pieces done at once, hinges, marquee and bezel brackets, bolts, metal plates, 5 coin doors and this control panel and it cost me $75 for sandblasting and powder coating.

Ok thanks, I will do that. What about the black color though? Do I have to specify a special kind of black? Sorry, I know nothing about powder coating, I just don't want to spray paint anything anymore.
 
Ok thanks, I will do that. What about the black color though? Do I have to specify a special kind of black? Sorry, I know nothing about powder coating, I just don't want to spray paint anything anymore.

You can have them do lots of colors. Tell them black and you'll be able to choose from the finish; flat,semi-gloss,gloss. You can also choose the texture, smoothe, or wrinkled (textured). The powder coater's should have examples.you should get stuff powder coated, It looks great!
 
You can have them do lots of colors. Tell them black and you'll be able to choose from the finish; flat,semi-gloss,gloss. You can also choose the texture, smoothe, or wrinkled (textured). The powder coater's should have examples.you should get stuff powder coated, It looks great!

I want the coin doors to look the same, just with new paint. What finish is that?
 
I'd do semi-gloss on all of it if you want that factory new patina. That's just me though.
 
Most coin doors have a light texture. My guy only had one texture Like it, and it was "wrinkle", which is the exact finish on the door. I got my CP done smooth. Both were done in semi-gloss, which is what you want.
 
Look how nice that underside looks:

P8180671.jpg
 
Look up powder coaters in your yellow pages. Call them and tell them what you want done, ask for a rough estimate. I had about 25-30 pieces done at once, hinges, marquee and bezel brackets, bolts, metal plates, 5 coin doors and this control panel and it cost me $75 for sandblasting and powder coating.

That is one sweet price for that amount of stuff.

Edward
 
Yep, look in your yellow pages for a local powder coating outfit. Then call them and ask if they do "small runs" and piece parts.

In the Minneapolis / St. Paul metro area, I go to Powder Coating Technologies in Plymouth, Minnesota.
http://www.powdercoatingtech.com/

Since I have access to a bead blasting cabinet at work, I bring them bare metal parts and that brings the price down. (This particular place doesn't do blasting in house, but sends it out to have done, if needed.)

For marquee brackets, control panels and such, I typically have them done in "Pac Black". (The name is just an amusing coincidence, but easy to remember!) This is a smooth, semi-gloss black. For this place, it's a common color that they run all the time, so my parts are usually done within a week.

This place has a display wall covered with little sample pieces in all the colors, finishes, and textures that they do.

Price will depend upon color and how soon you need it. If you can wait until they're running a whole batch of parts in your chosen color, you'll pay less. If you want it ASAP, requiring a special setup just for your parts, you'll pay more.

Once I had a couple brackets that I wanted powder coated in blue, but I needed them right away. I took them in and asked what colors of blue they were running in the next few days and picked from them.

One thing to remember, you do not want to have any threaded studs or threaded holes powdercoated. Be sure to point these out to make sure that they see them. They'll put little plugs in the holes and cover the studs in special tape to keep them uncoated.
 
Since I have access to a bead blasting cabinet at work, I bring them bare metal parts and that brings the price down. (This particular place doesn't do blasting in house, but sends it out to have done, if needed.)

For others:
Make sure you ask your shop if this will indeed drop the price, I thought the same thing with my shop and I have a bead blasting cabinet as well so I would always drop off my stuff freshly blasted. One day I asked them how much more it would cost if they have to do the blasting and she told me, it's the same price because we blast them no matter what condition they show up to make sure they are completely clean.

Now I don't do anything drop them off dirty and rusty and it's the same price. So before doing all of the work make sure you will be saving some money.
 
For others:
Make sure you ask your shop if this will indeed drop the price, I thought the same thing with my shop and I have a bead blasting cabinet as well so I would always drop off my stuff freshly blasted. One day I asked them how much more it would cost if they have to do the blasting and she told me, it's the same price because we blast them no matter what condition they show up to make sure they are completely clean.

Now I don't do anything drop them off dirty and rusty and it's the same price. So before doing all of the work make sure you will be saving some money.

Yeah that's what I do. Drop them off as is in most cases.
 
For others:
Make sure you ask your shop if this will indeed drop the price, I thought the same thing with my shop and I have a bead blasting cabinet as well so I would always drop off my stuff freshly blasted. One day I asked them how much more it would cost if they have to do the blasting and she told me, it's the same price because we blast them no matter what condition they show up to make sure they are completely clean.

I'll have to ask them next time. A coworker originally told me about this place. (He knows the owner or something.) At the time, he told me that it would be cheaper if I blasted the pieces myself, so that's what I've always done.
 
Use caution when sandblasting parts, as arcade parts seem to be thin, fairly cheap metal. I was recomended to get it blasted with glass beads, rather than sand, to avoid pitting and denting. everything should be powder coated, EVERYTHING.
 
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