Best method for installing side art ?

Thanks all.
I've applied smaller pieces in the past, 10" x 13" with no issue.
Well I didn't take the time to make sure they were as straight as they should be.
I guess my issue is minor creasing due to poor shipping. Weather or not the kinks will be worked out when the art is firmly pressed onto the cabinet.

None the less I picked up the ingredients for "Home Tac."
 
Thanks all !

I think I've turned side art application into a real devil of sorts.
It's one shot and I don't want to mess up. I've really made it worse on myself than I'm sure it should be.
 
Don't use dish soap. It makes the glue less effective. First get the cabinet as smooth as a baby's butt. Any blemish will be visible through the decal. Use putty or Bondo to fill any holes and sand them smooth. Don't apply to bare wood. Paint with semi gloss if needed. Don't apply directly to primer either. Obviously take out any carriage bolts (LOL).

Preferably lay the machine on its side so the area the decal will be applied to is pointing straight up. Make sure you have at least one helper. Use Rapid Tac or window tint install spray to get the cabinet and decal good and wet (follow instructions on bottle). Wet your hand with the spray too in case you touch the glue side of the decal. Apply the decal wet so it can be repositioned as needed. Then use a squeegee and rag to work out the air bubbles for a few minutes. Then just let it be while it dries.

Rapid Tac is what pros use to install decals. Unlike dish soap it allows you to reposition the decal and get it perfect, but it actually makes the glue adhere better once dry:
http://www.rapidtac.com/

Or you can go to an auto parts store or home depot and find something like this:
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...ooglebase-_-D59X-_-100354787&locStoreNum=6367

Good luck!

John

Im a pro and rapid tac in the worst stuff money can buy. A drop or two of dish soap in a spray bottle of water works the best. But it also depends what film your working with. I do all my arcade prints on vehicle wrap film andf if you use any liquid on that it dosent stick. Its super easy to work with and also re positional.
 
I've applied smaller art , 10" x 13" via the dry method.
I've had no real issues as noted.
This is my first attempt at putting on the full size art.
I guess wet or dry would not really matter with respects to creases would it ?
Would one option be better than the other ?
Or creases, the best option is the hair dryer.
 
vehicle wrap vinyl is a complete different world compared to standard vinyl like most us. its made to be pulled off reset and bubble come out super easy even if you get big ones. standard vinyl doesn't allow for that unless wet. best advice if if you wanna lay dry use the hinge method. look it up on youtube. then use a hard ink roller to apply and you should have no issue. i use a 2 inch roller and you can get them at most art supply stores. oh and hair dryer work but you cant regulate the heat very good. hit up a local harbor freight that have a heat gun with a thermostat.

roller.jpg
 
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Not when you are rolling on full sheets of graphics on 15 games in a month. You do anything to make it quick and easy :)

Can do full sideart in no time.
 
Not when you are rolling on full sheets of graphics on 15 games in a month. You do anything to make it quick and easy :)

Can do full sideart in no time.

OK, so for us NON 'Norm Abrams' types, what's the tried and true method to use to apply full side vinyl art?
 
Use the hinge method (look it up on youtube)

Peel back the top half of the backing and cut off.
Relay backing on sticker.
Use two pieces of masking tape on the lower half of the sticker to position where you wan the sticker.
Remove the top half of the backing.
Work from the center, left, then right, then up.
Remove the positioning tape.
Remove the bottom masking (or just peel back a bit at a time if you have no one to help.
Work from the center, left, right and down.
Stand back and admire work.

I think what he means is that you pull it off once to make it easier to pull off when you've positioned the whole sticker. Cutting it in the middle gives you a place to start in the middle.


  • So, pull top half back
  • Cut it
  • Put it back
  • Then position whole sticker, tape it down on the bottom half
  • pull the top half off again, starting in the middle of the graphic, working towards the top edge, slowly applying the top half of the sticker while pulling out the backing.
 
You don't have to cut it in the middle. Assuming you have the whole piece taped into place, you can peel back a couple of inches, trim the backing off with a razor, carefully lay it back down, sticking that small section to the surface, then begin working the remaining back off and applying pressure as you go. I recommend using a j-roller and a lot of pressure and do it slow and you'll have fewer air bubbles. I do it dry and have had no problems. Also, use a wipe the whole surface with Naptha before hand to degrease/clean and wipe down with a tack rag or compressed air before and during the process to reduce dust/crap under the vinyl.
 
I think what he means is that you pull it off once to make it easier to pull off when you've positioned the whole sticker. Cutting it in the middle gives you a place to start in the middle.


  • So, pull top half back
  • Cut it
  • Put it back
  • Then position whole sticker, tape it down on the bottom half
  • pull the top half off again, starting in the middle of the graphic, working towards the top edge, slowly applying the top half of the sticker while pulling out the backing.

Yup! That's what i meant. Or youtube hinge method. Same thing.
 
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