Best Jamma Adapter?

If your adapter was dropping .2V, then it was dirty and needed to be cleaned.
It was cleaned as well as I could clean it. I used an eraser and alcohol on the pins and an alcohol soaked cotton rag over a credit card pushed into the edge connector. I know that probably didn't get the terminals in the edge connector fully clean, but I don't know of any other ways to clean them that are non-destructive. The terminals may have lost tension too; given that the whole thing was 20 years old.

Your board takes approximately the same amount of current regardless of what voltage you give it... putting out 5V instead of 5.2V isn't going to make any difference in the lifetime of your power supply.

How can a power supply generate more voltage without accelerating wear and tear on itself? Shouldn't more voltage from the power supply (regardless of whether the board uses it or not) generate more heat in the power supply? Plus, if the board isn't using the extra voltage, then it has to be dissipated as heat somewhere at the board, which I don't see as a good thing either.
 
dude your splitting hairs with an electron microscope
let the OCD go.

most IC circuts, resitors , caps ect.. all have tolereances +/- 10% (or whatever number you like)

5VDC vs 5.1VDC no biggie

so then does all your pcb's Run EXACTLY ON 5VDC
 
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I just realized i typed Adapter. oops! I meant Harness!

Well, Bob's Economy JAMMA Harness has everything you need for the 48/60-in-1's, and are pretty nice. His Deluxe JAMMA Harness is good for those games that have more than 3 buttons per joystick, or need dual speakers wired for stereo....
 
dude your splitting hairs with an electron microscope
let the OCD go.

most IC circuts, resitors , caps ect.. all have tolereances +/- 10%

5VDC vs 5.1VDC no biggie

You could say the same thing about keeping terminals clean or anything else you might do to optimize current flow. You could go with 20 AWG wires instead of 18 AWG for power and ground in your harness, because it's close enough and you can always crank the power supply up to compensate, right?
 
That doesn't render the impedance of the wiring irrelevant.

If the contact impedance is 1 ohm, and the trace impedance is .01 ohm, and the wire impedance is .02 ohm... Yes, the wiring impedance is irrelevant.

Solder joints have a higher impedance than wiring or traces, to varying degrees depending on the solder alloy and mass and length of the fillet, and the material the wires and traces are made of and their mass and length...
Yadda yadda yadda... if you agree that solder joints have ANY impedance, than 3 solder joints have higher impedance than 2 solder joints. EOD.


But regardless of all of that; is it your claim that it is impossible for one to make a fingerboard/wire type adaptor with better current flow than a JAMMAboards PCB-type adaptor?
I'm saying it doesn't make one damn bit of difference, and that 'current flow' is a red herring, and that Bob's just trying to convince you to buy what he sells.

And you might as well call that a Spaeth PCB-type adapter, since I made them long before AS or JammaBoards :)
 
wear and tear on itself? Shouldn't more voltage from the power supply (regardless of whether the board uses it or not) generate more heat in the power supply? Plus, if the board isn't using the extra voltage, then it has to be dissipated as heat somewhere at the board, which I don't see as a good thing either.

EVERYTHING GETS DISSIPATED AS HEAT.

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OMG! .1V difference at 2A! That's .2W! That'll heat 1g of water 1.43 degrees C! HOW COULD MY PCB POSSIBLY WITHSTAND SUCH HEAT!
 
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If the contact impedance is 1 ohm, and the trace impedance is .01 ohm, and the wire impedance is .02 ohm... Yes, the wiring impedance is irrelevant.


Yadda yadda yadda... if you agree that solder joints have ANY impedance, than 3 solder joints have higher impedance than 2 solder joints. EOD.


I'm saying it doesn't make one damn bit of difference, and that 'current flow' is a red herring, and that Bob's just trying to convince you to buy what he sells.

You didn't answer the question. And, "red herring"? Talk about the pot calling the kettle black. Look at your above replies.

And you might as well call that a Spaeth PCB-type adapter, since I made them long before AS or JammaBoards :)
And Dynamo built them before you did, and probably someone built them before Dynamo did. That wasn't the point however. I specifically mentioned JAMMABoards to distinguish them from a PCB-type adapter that may be higher quality.
EVERYTHING GETS DISSIPATED AS HEAT.

[mod delete]

OMG! .1V difference at 2A! That's .2W! That'll heat 1g of water 1.43 degrees C! HOW COULD MY PCB POSSIBLY WITHSTAND SUCH HEAT!

Your emotional outburst here is comical. [mod delete most insulting part]

The only thing that would need to be done to establish this one way or another is to build a wire/fingerboard-type adaptor that has less impedance than one from JAMMABoards (that's the type that was originally in question). Whether or not you think the difference is significant is irrelevant; as that isn't the question. I'll ask again, do you think it is impossible?
 
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your just trying to make him mad and say stupid things.
please stop.
Be an adult and not a child here, this is just healthy discussion.

he answered your question already.
Your question is a question that has only one answer thou.
NOTHING IS IMPOSSIBLE, so the answer to your question is NO.

Which is why he answered it as "it doesnt make a bit of diffrence", beacuse it dosent.
 
i have used a couple of the jammabord adapters cant remember all but i know the capcom classic was one of them. it has always worked great and i prefere the design over the ones bob sells but bob is making them in small supply in his shop so i dont expect a board that has the appearance of a mass produced product. i would rather not have one in my cabinet for asthetic reasons more than anything but thats just me
 
or that using 20 AWG wire for power and ground vs. using 18 AWG doesn't make a bit of difference. Throw good practice out the window because according to Mark, "it doesn't make a bit of difference"?

And some of his statements suggest that he does believe that it is impossible.
[starting threads with personal insults is getting quite old.], but for those who might actually be trying to learn something in this thread;

Yes you can always get a lower total impedance with a wired adapter by 'adding more wires'... well guess what I can get a lower impedance on a pcb-based adapter by adding more wires too. Your 'challenge' makes no sense whatsoever.


...and as for 18ga vs 20ga... no that doesn't make a damn bit of difference either. 18 ga wire is ~6.4 ohms per 1000 ft... 20 ga wire is ~10.2 ohms.

20ga wire has a (conservative) ampacity of ~3.5-4A... considering power wiring is always done in parallel (with 2-4 wires), that gives you 8-16A on your +5, which is FAR more than any game I've ever seen uses. Most harnesses are built with lower gauge wire on the power, mainly to differentiate it from the other wiring, which never really goes much above 20ga for mechanical strength.

...but hey.. if you want to waste your money and spend more on Bob's ugly adapters because you think .01 ohms is going to make a difference in your game, that's your prerogative.
 
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Yes you can always get a lower total impedance with a wired adapter by 'adding more wires'...

Good.

well guess what I can get a lower impedance on a pcb-based adapter by adding more wires too.
Indeed, but that has nothing to do with the argument.

...and as for 18ga vs 20ga... no that doesn't make a damn bit of difference either. 18 ga wire is ~6.4 ohms per 1000 ft... 20 ga wire is ~10.2 ohms.

20ga wire has a (conservative) ampacity of ~3.5-4A... considering power wiring is always done in parallel (with 2-4 wires), that gives you 8-16A on your +5, which is FAR more than any game I've ever seen uses. Most harnesses are built with lower gauge wire on the power, mainly to differentiate it from the other wiring, which never really goes much above 20ga for mechanical strength.
What you're talking about here has to do with safety rather than the argument at hand. Just because Y number of 20 AWG wires can safely carry X amps without catching on fire doesn't mean that you won't get reduced impedance with heavier wires.

...but hey.. if you want to waste your money and spend more on Bob's ugly adapters because you think .01 ohms is going to make a difference in your game, that's your prerogative.
I have no use for adaptors. I've only ever needed one once, and that was for when I first got my Punch-Out machine which had been converted to JAMMA. I built an adaptor for it until I was able to find an original Punch-Out harness.

[2 more personal attacks... mod deleted]
 
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[more abusive language and personal attacks... post would have been fine with just the following without the typical insult intro...]

The simple fact remains that if the traces are sizes sufficiently such that no self-heating occurs under the required load, the impedance is fixed and negligible, and you don't gain anything by adding more parallel paths.


EOD.
 
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I bought one of Bob's wire-based Jamma to Moon Patrol adapters and I think it is a beautiful piece. He had his adapter guy custom make it for me. Works great, looks great and cost me $20. To be fair, I'd also buy the type of adapter that Mark is alluding to, if they were available, were for a PCB I had, and were reasonably priced.
 
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