Best glue to use for cabinets

Teknotoyz

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I have used wood glue in almost every case when I am gluing cabinet panels together. But most of the time it's bare wood to wood.

I picked up a Pole Position and have started going over the cabinet. I found that the lower back, wheel, and bottom sections were screwed crudely together leaving the screws visible on the sides. I have removed all the screws and want to put the cabinet back together in a more proper fashon. The edges of the panels are bare wood/particle board which is good for glue, but the cabinet sides are particle board with the glossy smooth finish where the panels will meet up.

Does anyone know if wood glue will work well on this glossy finish? Any suggestions on what has worked in your restores?

I'll post some pictures tonight.
 
I have used wood glue in almost every case when I am gluing cabinet panels together. But most of the time it's bare wood to wood.

I picked up a Pole Position and have started going over the cabinet. I found that the lower back, wheel, and bottom sections were screwed crudely together leaving the screws visible on the sides. I have removed all the screws and want to put the cabinet back together in a more proper fashon. The edges of the panels are bare wood/particle board which is good for glue, but the cabinet sides are particle board with the glossy smooth finish where the panels will meet up.

Does anyone know if wood glue will work well on this glossy finish? Any suggestions on what has worked in your restores?

I'll post some pictures tonight.

Glue, crown staples and screws, a combo of all 3 was used. Wood glue works fine.
 
Titebond or Elmer's carpenter glue. I like Titebond and Titebond II, both available at Lowe's, and any big box hardware store. Titebond II is waterproof and has a longer setting up time, which can be useful.
 
I guess rough moving over the years, the bottom panels are unbroken, just separated from the sides.
The back upper part was busted up pretty bad, so I made a new one.

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Just remember that Gorilla glue expands and continues to seep out while it's drying. make sure to have a wet rag handy to help minimize the sanding time :)
 
One of the woodworking magazines did a review of a bunch of glues, and actually rated yellow glue (Elmer's, Titebond, etc) above Gorilla Glue on strength and some other factors. I would never use it again for woodworking or this hobby, as the expansion make a mess. With woodworking, you generally want to minimize the visibility of glue outside of the joint, wipe the mess, etc.. Gorilla Glue is no good for that. It is strong, but looks sloppy. With Titebond, all you'll need is a sharp chisel to clean away what little dried glue gets outside of the joint, and it takes no time.
 
when doing repairs on atari cabinets i have found that yellow glue does not adhere well at all to the vinyl covered / melamine cabinet peices that these cabinets are made from.

gorrila glue does.

although as with anything your milage & satisfaction may vary
 
You use GG sparingly per the directions and then trim off an access. It is easy.

Maybe not preferred for woodworking and nice projects, but bonding big things, things needed for a strong bond, such as cabinets, it is great.

Use it outdoors too.

I use GG super glue too.
 
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One of the woodworking magazines did a review of a bunch of glues, and actually rated yellow glue (Elmer's, Titebond, etc) above Gorilla Glue on strength and some other factors. I would never use it again for woodworking or this hobby, as the expansion make a mess. With woodworking, you generally want to minimize the visibility of glue outside of the joint, wipe the mess, etc.. Gorilla Glue is no good for that. It is strong, but looks sloppy. With Titebond, all you'll need is a sharp chisel to clean away what little dried glue gets outside of the joint, and it takes no time.


It was in Fine Woodworking...if it were me I would cut back the vinyl where you are gluing so that you have a good bond even if the vinyl were to break down.
 
I agree. I don't think any glue will make a cabinet maker's strong bond with that vinyl. At worst, might not be much better than parchment paper, which will not stick.

I'm planning on building a new cabinet for my BZ mini, reusing the front panel, and have been wondering about the same thing with cabinet construction. Since it's not original anyways, I might just use screws anywhere blocking attaches to vinyl covered board. I'd want to countersink the holes though, so it would be less of an eyesore.
 
I agree. I don't think any glue will make a cabinet maker's strong bond with that vinyl. At worst, might not be much better than parchment paper, which will not stick.

I'm planning on building a new cabinet for my BZ mini, reusing the front panel, and have been wondering about the same thing with cabinet construction. Since it's not original anyways, I might just use screws anywhere blocking attaches to vinyl covered board. I'd want to countersink the holes though, so it would be less of an eyesore.

It's painted not vinyl, but you are right, I think as long as there is not wood-wood contact, the bond will be weaker. I tried a few test glue spots and the glue sticks to the wood block, but pops right off the painted surface. I have no choice on the bottom section unless I want to pull it off (even more work)... so I'll follow phet's advice and pop some screws in too. On the rear panels, I have access to remove the paint to make it even stronger.

Thanks for the advice everyone!
 
I use Titebond for small, intricate work, and Liquid Nails for everything else. Liquid nails will seep out of joints, but if you use a wet towel to wipe off the excess after clamping it looks great.
 
Sometimes I use Wood Glue, and other times I prefer Gorilla Glue. It's determined by what exactly I am trying to fix at the time.
 
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