Best board to put in Pole Position cockpit.

tbbk

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My pole position cockpit has come close to driving me nuts, it just doesn't want to play nice and work, and I can't get it out of my basement without taking it apart into 100 pieces. Everyone always wants to play it because it is a cockpit, but no one can.

So anyone have any suggestions for a different racing board I could wire up inside until some sort of replacement pole position boards become available?

I am sort of thinking about Badlands, even though it is a sprint style title. I had Noice87's Badlands machine for like 6 months and I played it endlessly.
 
Pole Position II

I do totally agree that is the best board I can put in it, however I was more looking along the lines of a board I can actually easily buy and can expect to keep working.
 
I'm sure you've tried fixing it already, but do you have any idea as to what is wrong with it at the moment. Most of the problems I hear about pp and PP2 is the convoluted twin power supplies in it. I would suggest waiting on Spaeths new switching PS as a possible solution. If its the PCB, bite the bullet and send it off for repairs. Rebuild the power brick, and replace the pcb edge connectors. After that, it should work.

I'm +1 for PP2. These are dedicated games and I wouldn't think you would easily convert them to anything. But if you had to replace it with something, go with a jamma driving game like Indy Heat, Overdrive, or something else. Worst case scenario is to convert the game to a Mame machine and emulate PP and PP2. Should be able to rig up a USP convertor board to work with the Wheel, pedal and shifter.
 
I got both my power supplies putting out clean power, I bypassed the edge connector. I have graphical corruption, the steering doesn't work anymore, and last time I tried it wouldn't even come up.
 
When you say you bypassed the connector, does that mean that you soldered the wires right to the board. But it sounds like you have board ploblems. A working PP2 board might
be just what you need for it.

I got both my power supplies putting out clean power, I bypassed the edge connector. I have graphical corruption, the steering doesn't work anymore, and last time I tried it wouldn't even come up.
 
Bypassed the edge connector for the power and ground connections, went right to the test lugs, all of them (didn't solder, used disconnects). IIRC I was able to get 4.98 volts on the far end of one board and 5.08 on the far side of the other one. When I first got the thing it was rigged to run off of one AR II and was only running at 4.75 volts, but it worked with graphics corruption. Steering stopped working soon enough, and neither the graphics nor the steering problem went away once I fixed the second AR II and got the voltages right.
 
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Have you checked out the optos on the steering wheel board yet? Alligator clip a logic probe to the output.. Then you can hear the pulses as beeps as you turn the wheel. No beeping means the steering board has issues..
 
I once was offered a free Pole upright. It had the Matsushit monitor in it but the tube neck was broken. The game PCB was missing. I think that everything else was there, though. Normally, I don't turn away free games but I had no idea what to do with it. If the monitor had been working, maybe I would have done something but finding a working board would have been a PITA.
 
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