Berzerk - Restoration in progress - Restenciling

Got a little further over the New Years Weekend. Stenciled the other side and began reassembly. Still wondering if I should hit this with #0 Steel wool and then clear coat it with a high quality Satin Poly. For now, I think I'll leave it as is, as I just wanna move the bitch in and play it.
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You can see that even with the registration rectangles, I still got the red a bit high on this side. There is really no way to know how perfect everything lines up after you begin full adhesion. The other side worked out nearly perfectly, but this one was off about 3/32 of an inch. Oh well.
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Oh, and here are some close-up pics of the NVRAM battery replacement solution that my good friend Al installed on the ZPU before I bought my set of boards from him:
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looks great peht now abut that cocktail im rebuilding from scratch, wanna help? long drive but I'll buy the pizza and beer lol!
 
That Novram board is handy, but my lithium cell mod is the same in terms of chance of leakage because that Dallas thing also uses a Lithium energy source.

Looking great and don't worry to much about the stenciling, we all know Stern wasn't the best in it ;)
 
looks great peht now abut that cocktail im rebuilding from scratch, wanna help? long drive but I'll buy the pizza and beer lol!

Sounds good, leaving now. Was there an inner bezel on these games? It seems like you can see an awful lot of the monitor framework through the glass bezel.
 
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Phet..Quality work as is expected from you my friend...don't worry about unbalanced art....While working on Williams bubbles stencils I found that one side actually has one more bubble in artwork than the other side...I've had three cabs and its same on all of them...granted its at bottom when the bubbles are fading to really small...but now that I notice I wonder if they forgot to put it on other side or added an extra...:D who knows..when I complete the stencil I leave it the same.
 
Phet..Quality work as is expected from you my friend...don't worry about unbalanced art....While working on Williams bubbles stencils I found that one side actually has one more bubble in artwork than the other side...I've had three cabs and its same on all of them...granted its at bottom when the bubbles are fading to really small...but now that I notice I wonder if they forgot to put it on other side or added an extra...:D who knows..when I complete the stencil I leave it the same.

Thanks Rick. I am still struggling with leaving the horn out or putting it in (Rich cut me the stencil if I wanna add it), clearcoating this and finding an original inner bezel. I have a nice black plastic one the would work just fine, and I may just retrofit it.
 
I think since that is something very visible I'd probably fix it...but with something like the bubbles its so small I'd probably leave the flaw...just my opinion.
 
OK finally picked up a nice satin poly to seal my stenciling as I was having trouble getting a consistent looking finish. You can see the unevenness here:

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And now after a roughing with 000 steelwool and the first coat of satin poly, you can see how the finish is evening out and looks much nicer:

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Close-ups of the texture and finish of the stenciled sides:

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I debated and agonized over this for 2 weeks or so. Glad I finally caved and just went with my gut feeling. Looks 10 times better to me.
 
Berzerk owners, how does the blue and red of your Berzerk logo come together in the middle? Is there a black gap, do the colors overlap or butt up against each other? The stencils I used leave a narrow black gap:
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but the 2 Berzerks I saw this weekend that still had the original factory paint had the colors overlapping.
 
Berzerk owners, how does the blue and red of your Berzerk logo come together in the middle? Is there a black gap, do the colors overlap or butt up against each other? The stencils I used leave a narrow black gap.

mine has no gap at all on the right side, the left side starts off with no gap, but then the red and blue divide - obviously bad stencilling!
 
i've never used steelwood before. what is the difference between using steelwood and sand paper? do you have to use the steelwool in wet or dry state?

I used steel wool mainly because it is more flexible in relation to a textured cab like this. I feel sandpaper would remove the texture along with roughing up the paint. I used it dry.
 
Looks real good. Did you knock-down the paint ridge from that red/blue transition prior to applying the clear?

Here:
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