Benched Atari PP Brick With No +10.3vdc? What have I missed?

Thomas

Well-known member

Donor 2021
Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Messages
3,726
Reaction score
75
Location
Virginia
Benched Atari PP Brick With No +10.3vdc? What have I missed?

Does the Atari brick half to be plugged into the Ar2's in order to test for +10.3vdc?

I have pulled my atari brick and put it on my bench.
I have replaced all the fuse holders with new ones.
I have good tested fuses in those holders.
I have a good tested bridge rectifier.
I have a tested power cord.

So im not sure what the problem is? What could be wrong? Can I just test from J5 with Dave's harness?

http://www.mrsalvage.com/3_Atari_Pole_Positions/Dokerts_Atari_Test_Aid_Instruction.jpg

Do I need j6 and j9 plugged in to the ar2?
 
No your not alone...

I just smoked my boards and ar2's... Shit

Hope you don't have the same results.
 
Does the Atari brick half to be plugged into the Ar2's in order to test for +10.3vdc?
Do I need j6 and j9 plugged in to the ar2?

No...and no.

How are you testing this brick? In a cabinet with everything unplugged except for the 120V input? The six pin connector has to be plugged in for the brick to "trun on". If this is plugged in, flip the brick over and check for 10-14VDC at the big blue. Somewhere something's open.

Edward
 
I think I put in the wrong brick...

http://www.mrsalvage.com/3_Atari_Pole_Positions/Atari_Bricks/bricks_front1.jpg

The one all the way to the right is what I put in... The one on the left is what came out of it. The one on the right that I used has an extra 3 pin plug on it. So it looks like I made a big mistake choosing the cleanest un hacked brick.

Thanks for the heads up on how to test this beast. I did not have anything plugged in to it... Just the 120 from the wall. I did have Dave's 6 pin atari test harness plug into J5. This is the test point I was getting my readings from.

So I guess I need to learn how to test these the old fashion way.
 
That extra 3-pin plug is irrelevant. It's to power a 120VAC fan. Some games came factory with an additional fan. The important part is the number on the transformer. Your A/R II might have smoked from the sense circuit......usually because of a shot harness edge connector.

Edward
 
This was a little bit different than that. Smoke came from the pcb cage and both ar2's...

Its no big deal I have 8 sets of boards... And 11 ar2's so im in good shape. I Just need to start again and see where I went wrong on the transformer.

All three transformers are the same part# so that rules out the brick being wrong.

Hum... I will regroup in the morning!

Which edge connectors would I need to buy and what kind of tools do I need to replace them?

Thanks for all the help...
 
If you plug in P9 to J6 and P6 to J9, you will smoke your A/R II in a heartbeat.

The easy way to protect yourself is to remember that violet and orange color wires go to the side of the A/R II with the R8 +5vdc adjustment pot.

Red wires go to the side that does NOT have the R8 +5vdc adjustment pot.
 
It doesn't really affect anything. The revision of A/R II that you are testing will only use P6 & P7. P6 will provide the 10.3vdc from your power brick to the A/R II. P7 will provide the +5vdc that is being generated on your A/R II.
 
Thanks for the post man I just don't understand why it smoked all the boards? Why would it do that? I didn't have that problem with the other trans...

I found this Dave...

The 15 pin connector on the power brick is J5 and it numbers as follows...
^ ^ ^
1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
etc

Time to test it under power
meter set to 20vdc
Black lead to pin 4 or 5
Red lead to pin 1, 2, 3

meter set to 200vac
Red lead to pin 6
Black lead to pin 7

meter set to 20vac
Red lead to pin 8
Black lead to pin 9

post results

If I test the brick like this do I need to have anything plugged in except the power cord to the wall?
Also my meter will not do 20vac I have 200vac and 750vac

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=113705&highlight=Atari+Transformer&page=2
 
Last edited:
All six fuses tested good
Bridge rectifier tested good

-----

Time to test it under power
meter set to 20vdc
Black lead to pin 4 or 5
Red lead to pin 1, 2, 3
-----
-0.03, -0.04 & -0.04
-----
meter set to 200vac
Red lead to pin 6
Black lead to pin 7
-----
-0.00
-----
meter set to 200vac
Red lead to pin 8
Black lead to pin 9
-----
-0.00
-----
 
No...and no.

How are you testing this brick? In a cabinet with everything unplugged except for the 120V input? The six pin connector has to be plugged in for the brick to "trun on". If this is plugged in, flip the brick over and check for 10-14VDC at the big blue. Somewhere something's open.

Edward

I just tested big blue with the meter set to 20vdc...

-----
-0.07
-----

Also I have the brick on my bench so the 6 pin plug @ j3 is not connected.

Should I disconnect everything inside the cab, Main board, Video board and ar2's then only plug in the 6pin on j3? If so should the brick have all the green field wires tighten down?


I see you posted before I did... Let me see If I can get an on/off switch set up...
 
Jumper J2 (on the power brick) Pin 1 to pin 4, Pin 2 to pin 5, then plug it in to the wall.

You must mean J3? Is that the one you want to jumper?

http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Arcade_Atari_Kee/Pole_Position/Pole_Position_TM-218_7th_Printing.pdf

I am looking at page 84 of the manual. The six pin molex is J3?

-----

Now

http://www.mrsalvage.com/3_Atari_Pole_Positions/Atari_Bricks/bricks_front2.jpg

Also mine brick has an extra 3 pin molex. The brick I am using is the one on the right.

-----
I have

15 pin, 9 pin, 6 pin & Two 3 pin molex's on this brick.

I know where J3 is and J5 based on the Manual. The picture doesn't say what the rest of them are Dave. Is J2 the 9 pin molex?
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom