BattleZone

rcoonjr

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I have fallen into repairing a buddies Battlezone. Holy shit did I get a job. I keep getting a dot in the middle of the screen. I corrected all the error beeps for ram issues. Still haven't gotten it to display a stable picture. Now the damn thing doesn't do anything. Does anyone have a FAQ or some troubleshooting tips.

I will say I have tested the cpu in my Millipede.. In fact I swapped them so I know I have a working cpu.

I have checked all the eproms with my burner. Found one with a bad checksum. Now this is where I think I got my problem. I don't think the game has booted since I changed the bad eprom. I'm gonna try it with the original in the morning. Is it ideal to run version 1 or 2..

I have tested the power supply in my millipede it works fine... Good solid voltages.

But if anyone has any tips to what to check.
 
Buy a Battlezone High Score save kit for starters, it replaces all the program chips and their crappy sockets.

So I've noticed. :D I'll just order that and save the gray hairs for when I get a little older..
 
Except the two vector generator roms in the vector generator circuit. Going from memory A3 and B/C3. I would still consider replacing those two sockets and cleaning up the rom's legs after re-verifying the code.

Bill

Buy a Battlezone High Score save kit for starters, it replaces all the program chips and their crappy sockets.
 
Except the two vector generator roms in the vector generator circuit. Going from memory A3 and B/C3. I would still consider replacing those two sockets and cleaning up the rom's legs after re-verifying the code.

Bill

Well I just got my board in. Now do I remove all the old eproms at the bottom of the board. I will say I need to install new sockets on those two a3 / bc3 ... which I plan to do tommarow. gonna re-rest my 6502 again as well.
 
Well I just got my board in. Now do I remove all the old eproms at the bottom of the board. I will say I need to install new sockets on those two a3 / bc3 ... which I plan to do tommarow. gonna re-rest my 6502 again as well.

Well after changing out sockets for the 6502, a3, b/c3 chip. I still get no boot :( Does anyone have any toubleshooting tips or things I can try...
 
OK, so if I read correctly:

1) you're certain you've got a good solid +5VDC because you've tested the ARII with another game PCB.

2) you're certain you've got a good CPU, because you've tested it in another game PCB.

3) you've replaced the CPU socket and the EPROM sockets not obviated by the Braze kit. (and hopefully carefully checked your work to make sure no traces or pads were damaged).

4) you've installed the Braze HS save kit.

A few questions:

- are you certain that your monitor works?
- when you power up it, what does the LED start button do?
- what do you get if you power up with the test mode switch flipped?

A few points:

- The main PCB to aux PCB interconnect is a common problem. Look for bad wires, and esp. look for cracked solder joints on the header pins (often at/near the ends of the connector). However, I *think* it'll boot up (at least in test mode) without the aux board entirely. The aux board does the 3D objects (enemies, obsticles, shots, etc) and the sound.

- At this point, you need to verify that the CPU is running and executing code. This is easiest to do with a logic probe or oscilloscope, by checking for activity clock pin and data & address lines. After that, you want to make sure it isn't constatly resetting, or "watchdogging." Again easiest with a logic probe, but possible with a decent DMM by watching the voltage on the reset pin of the CPU (pin 40).
 
OK, so if I read correctly:

1) you're certain you've got a good solid +5VDC because you've tested the ARII with another game PCB.

2) you're certain you've got a good CPU, because you've tested it in another game PCB.

3) you've replaced the CPU socket and the EPROM sockets not obviated by the Braze kit. (and hopefully carefully checked your work to make sure no traces or pads were damaged).

4) you've installed the Braze HS save kit.

A few questions:

- are you certain that your monitor works?
- when you power up it, what does the LED start button do?
- what do you get if you power up with the test mode switch flipped?

A few points:

- The main PCB to aux PCB interconnect is a common problem. Look for bad wires, and esp. look for cracked solder joints on the header pins (often at/near the ends of the connector). However, I *think* it'll boot up (at least in test mode) without the aux board entirely. The aux board does the 3D objects (enemies, obsticles, shots, etc) and the sound.

- At this point, you need to verify that the CPU is running and executing code. This is easiest to do with a logic probe or oscilloscope, by checking for activity clock pin and data & address lines. After that, you want to make sure it isn't constatly resetting, or "watchdogging." Again easiest with a logic probe, but possible with a decent DMM by watching the voltage on the reset pin of the CPU (pin 40).

Well My monitor seems to be working. its got a dot in the middle.. Spot killer is on .. on the monitor chasis. I have noticed the LED stays lit... no flashing. I did aquire a scope to see what X and Y are putting out. I have checked clock pulse with a logic probe. we do have active clock. When I coin up I hear the counter relay click. so thats gotta mean it is executing code...
 
Well My monitor seems to be working. its got a dot in the middle.. Spot killer is on .. on the monitor chasis. I have noticed the LED stays lit... no flashing.

LED on the monitor is staying lit.....but what about the ones on the control panel ?

And I would unplug the monitor until you can get it to play blind.
If you are seeing a dot in the middle, it will burn a spot into the shadow mask of the tube.
("spot killer" doesn't always kill the "spot")
 
LED on the monitor is staying lit.....but what about the ones on the control panel ?

Exactly. I guess I wasn't too clear in my query. On your control panel, left of the joysticks, there's a button labeled "START". It has an LED inside of it, and it is supposed to light up. If your LED is dead (or your CP wiring is jacked) of course it won't. I think it should light briefly at power up, then turn off (assuming game mode). Then, after it's coined up, it should blink until the start button is pressed. In test mode, it think it stays on. It's a useful diagnostic indicator... especially in the absence of any video or audio output (in that case, it's all you've got for output). If yours doesn't seem to be working, you could get a new one (expensive... they're kinda hard to find), or rebuild yours (a pain to remove the tiny rivets on the microswitch and later re-assemble with tiny screws and nuts), or just remove the wires going to the LED and hook them up to the legs of a good LED.

Yes, if your game cycles the coin counter every time you insert a coin, it would seem that the CPU is executing code (a good sign). Does the LED start button on the control panel blink after coining up? Can you press the START button after inserting a coin? Do you hear any audio from the speakers (after starting a game, the tank idle sound should start)? Can you find and activate the test mode switch? If the coin door is original, it should be a little toggle switch inside the coin door, up in the corner IIRC.
 
Exactly. I guess I wasn't too clear in my query. On your control panel, left of the joysticks, there's a button labeled "START". It has an LED inside of it, and it is supposed to light up. If your LED is dead (or your CP wiring is jacked) of course it won't. I think it should light briefly at power up, then turn off (assuming game mode). Then, after it's coined up, it should blink until the start button is pressed. In test mode, it think it stays on. It's a useful diagnostic indicator... especially in the absence of any video or audio output (in that case, it's all you've got for output). If yours doesn't seem to be working, you could get a new one (expensive... they're kinda hard to find), or rebuild yours (a pain to remove the tiny rivets on the microswitch and later re-assemble with tiny screws and nuts), or just remove the wires going to the LED and hook them up to the legs of a good LED.

Yes, if your game cycles the coin counter every time you insert a coin, it would seem that the CPU is executing code (a good sign). Does the LED start button on the control panel blink after coining up? Can you press the START button after inserting a coin? Do you hear any audio from the speakers (after starting a game, the tank idle sound should start)? Can you find and activate the test mode switch? If the coin door is original, it should be a little toggle switch inside the coin door, up in the corner IIRC.

My LED on my control panel stays lit... in test mode and normal game mode. I'll disconnect monitor here in a moment and hit it on my scope. See whats actually going on.
 
With the aux board unhooked the game goes into test mode. there are alot of lines all over the place. Its not readable or anything I can reconize... :( I'm gonna check my 555 timer on the aux board... swap it out... see if that makes a difference.
 
Success... Changed 555 timer on the Aux board it came to life! My last problem if someone can advice... I can't find anywhere in the schematic I downloaded for the Start Button. Thats the only button not working. I think that button is kinda important... Anyone have a schematic or know which chip controls the switches... Thanks everyone for the help!
 
Inputs are read by the aux board. Aux board is on sheet 3B of the schems.

On xmission.arcarc.com: http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Arcade_Atari_Kee/Battlezone/

The 3rd printing is missing sheets 03A & 03B. Get them from the 2nd printing.

Bottom left corner of the diagram shows the button inputs. Pull-up resistors, current limiting resistors, filter caps, and straight into the POKEY...
 
Success... Changed 555 timer on the Aux board it came to life!


I'm glad your game is working again... but I'm confused as to how that fixed it.

There's only one 555 on the aux board, that I know of, and it's used to generate the tank idle sound. I can't fathom how that IC was causing the observed problems...
 
I'm glad your game is working again... but I'm confused as to how that fixed it.

There's only one 555 on the aux board, that I know of, and it's used to generate the tank idle sound. I can't fathom how that IC was causing the observed problems...

All fixed!!./.. Thanks everyone.
 
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