Battlezone Problems

squall280

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Well first time actually having to deal with a vector with problems. Game powers up and all lights come up but no picture. No Neck Glow either. Anyone?
 
Well first time actually having to deal with a vector with problems. Game powers up and all lights come up but no picture. No Neck Glow either. Anyone?

The neck glow voltage comes from the same area as the coin door globes. Both are 6.1 Volts (see below)
http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/B/Battlezone-sp.pdf

So turn off the lights and see if the coin door lights are on or off, and go from there

(By the way, no neck glow = no picture on screen) So . . hopefully it's not a burnt out heater in the screen, rather a simple 6.1 Volts AC problem from the main power brick
 
The card edge connectors are real touchy. Power it down and reseat all of the card edge connectors and push down on all socketed chips. Mine used to do that when it was moved and reseating everything (chips and connectors) always brought it back.

Don't forget to check the fuses (meter them, don't just look at them). That bit me once too.

ken
 
My standard BZ reply...

1. Replace both edge connectors.
2. Get the Braze HS save kit.
3. Rebuild the monitor.
4. Rebuild the AR-2 board.
5. Solder interconnect header pins and possibly replace interconnect cable.

Then troubleshoot as needed ( but you probably won't have to).
 
If the interconnect pins are tarnished, consider replacing the headers with the better square pin type .156 male header strips. Repin connector with trifurcon pins, or if it's an IDC connector, replace with the crimp type housing.
 
OK i had a little time to look at it. I checked the power supply on the bottom and replaced both fuses in the f4 and f5 position. both were blown. powered up.......both got fried. so what would be causing these two locations to blow?
 
OK i had a little time to look at it. I checked the power supply on the bottom and replaced both fuses in the f4 and f5 position. both were blown. powered up.......both got fried. so what would be causing these two locations to blow?

The 2 x 36VAC (18V/GND/18V) lines are fed through them 2 fuses. They go directly to the AR2 and would blow if Caps C20 AND 21 are shorted, but usually not both in this case, so more likely a rectifier diode is shorted (IE: CR 5, 6 , 7 or 8)
 
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The neck glow voltage comes from the same area as the coin door globes. Both are 6.1 Volts (see below)
http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/B/Battlezone-sp.pdf

So turn off the lights (in your games room) and see if the coin door lights are on or off, and go from there

(By the way, no neck glow = no picture on screen) So . . hopefully it's not a burnt out heater in the screen, rather a simple 6.1 Volts AC problem from the main power brick

And how did this test go? :)
 
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the coin mechs are indeed working.....well one is the other i am guessing the light bulb is burned out.
 
Ok slight update. I used a absolutely known working ar2 board. The spare after going thru my records was labeled rebuild...which means it needs to be fixed......anyways...so pulled one from my working centipede and threw it in there. Got a pop in the audio. Spot killer light NOT on now. Game board lights all on.....still no neck glow.
 
Need to measure the resistance of the heater coil in the tube. It should be a quite low reading

This can be done by turning off the machine

Unplug the 12 pin molex plug that connects to the monitor
Find pins 9 and 12 on the monitor side of the plug (Blue/Green and Blue)
measure there, on the 200 ohm scale, it should be low (Can anyone confirm the reading please?) :)
 
I realized I have a foreign BZ Cab, so my monitor is completely different to yours (Unless you have an LAI Machine too) :rolleyes:

I was going to send you pics, but they are no use to you

Can someone with an Atari Cab post up pics of the 12 pin monitor plug please

Help save a BZ . . .
 
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