Battlezone - Multiple Issues

Michael Roma

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I just picked up a BZ and need some assistance getting it back up and running.

When the game is turned on the +5v LEDs on the boards are red, the start button and marquee lights up, the monitor LED is on and the monitor has neck glow but no game sounds or display on the monitor.

I tested voltage at the test points on the board and the AR and they look good. I pulled the game boards, pulled the ribbon cable and re-soldered the header pins. I also hit the pins with a wire brush as well as the edge connectors on the harness.

What next? I heard that this game is notorious for crappy sockets. Is it ALL sockets or just certain ones (ie. 18pin, 24pin, etc)? I guess my next step would be to reseat the ICs. Any other ideas?

- Mike

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I just saw your post and was DL'ing the manuals to figure how to put in self-test.

- Mike

Its a switch inside the coin door, its on the back of the coin door. its on the top marked test, put it to test, then turn the machine on:)
if you have the manual look on page 7 it will tell you what the tones mean.
 
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I put the game in test mode and didn't hear anything. I pulled the boards again and reseated all socketed ICs... still nothing (both normal game and test modes).

I missed the +5v test point on the aux board earlier and see that it is only measuring 4.8v when I test it. If I flex the edge connector for the AUX board it will dip to 4.5v. I checked pin 1 on several ICs on the AUX board and they are all low (approx 3.2v - 4.5v).

- Mike
 
I checked the manual and schematics this morning to try to further troubleshoot the low +5v on the AUX board...

Apparently the +5v gets fed to the AUX board from the main board via the edge connector (Y from main PCB to 2 on AUX). I pulled the AUX edge connector and tested voltage at Y on the main PCB then the back of the main PCB edge connector and up to 2 on the disconnected AUX edge connector. I have good voltage at +4.99v. I powered the game off, reattached the AUX edge connector, powered back up and tested voltage at 2 on the board and back of the AUX edge connector and had my low voltage (+4.6v).

So there is something dragging the +5v down. Just for SnG I am about to resolder the pins on the AR. Any other ideas???

- Mike
 
bump to the top and update...

I reflowed the molex pins on the AR board and adjusted the +5v so I get +5.05v at the test points on the main PCB and approx. +4.9v on the AUX. Still nothing in test mode or regular. Start LED stays lit.

Also, upon further inspection I discovered a broken capacitor (.1uf 25v capacitor) at C26 on the AUX board. All I can find on Mouser and Digikey are surface mount capacitors for those values. Any other resources for this specific capacitor or options? Will these work???

http://cgi.ebay.com/0-1uf-Ceramic-Capacitors-0-1mfd-25V-20-10-Qty_W0QQitemZ220302880615QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item334b132f67#ht_809wt_940

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- Mike
 
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35v in lieu of 25v is OK? I know in monitor cap kits it is alright to go up in voltage just not microfarads. Does the same apply here?

Also, from reading older BZ repair threads it was mentioned that the AUX board is not needed to get into test mode. Would having the AUX board plugged in (edge connector and ribbon cable) prevent the test menu from coming up if that cap is broken (or other, undetected problems lay with the AUX board)?

- Mike
 
Good to go. This is just a really small filter cap.

Test will come up without the aux board. Don't think that cap really matters much at all.
 
I shotgunned the ARII and capped the G05-802. I tested voltages on the AR and PCB and they look good. I have a spare board set that i swapped in and get nothing with that as well (voltage at test points is spot on).

The LED is lit on the deflection board and there is still neck glow but nothing shows up on the screen...

What can I do to confirm that the monitor is working??? Should I expect to see some garbage on the screen if the monitor was working???

- Mike

On another note... After I shotgunned the ARII I tested the voltages on the AR w/ no load. Everything looked good except the -5v which was somewhere around -15v. Using the search function on this great resource we call KLOV, I was able to find another thread regarding this issue. Apparently the 7095s that ship with Bob Robert's kit are spec'd at 1.5A while the older ones are 2.0A. I pulled the board and put the original 7095 in and my -5v is spot on.

Here is the thread... http://forums.klov.com/showthread.php?t=99809&highlight=arii+high
 
If you have a board problem like my last battlezone. Everything was fine except the game pcb board was not sending signals to monitor. So I had nothing on the monitor. Do you have another game you can test the monitor in?
 
Unfortunately I do not have another game to test the monitor in.

Is there a shotgun (or common failures) on the XY portion of the game PCB to check for? What did you do to get yours working again?

- Mike
 
What did you do to get yours working again?

- Mike

I bought another board set. This one will be a spare once I get it up. Im going to try the high score save chip because it bypasses some of the roms and sockets, if that does not fix it. I will send off for repairs.
 
I received the HiScore save kit today and installed it to great success now having a working Battlezone!

Only issue is there is a double vision on the mirror. The output on the monitor looks normal with no double lines but when you look thru the plexi bezel everything is doubled-up.

Any advice??? I cleaned the mirror when I was waiting for the HiScore kit. Does a certain side of the mirror need to be facing downwards?

- Mike

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