Where can I send my Battlezone chassis for repair? Playing blind. Don't want to mess with vector.
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"Plays Blind" could mean many things, including, ->
So, just sending the "monitor chassis board" to someone might not fix the issue.
- non-working X and Y out on main logic board; bad Z out etc
- bad +/-15V opamp bias or other power issue on main board (or from ARII)
- bad monitor chassis board
- bad wiring from logic to chassis
- bad transistors on monitor
- bad high voltage board on monitor
Got an oscilloscope? Test X/Y outputs first off of the main board.
(I was going to send this as a reply to your PM, but figured I'd just post it, in case it's useful to others.)
Realistically, it could be one of 3 things: Monitor chassis (and/or) monitor HV (and/or) game board. It's possible you could have more than one problem, which can make it harder to troubleshoot, but we can walk you through it.
I recommend properly rebuilding the entire monitor, as if the boards haven't been overhauled, they can have multiple issues, and you can fix one, and end up having something else blow in a few days or weeks. But if you rebuild them properly, they can be very stable and reliable monitors.
Note that it's possible it could be your game board, if there is an issue with the analog video output section, which is causing either the X or Y signal (or both) to be dead. However, this is easy to check with a DMM. Just measure the AC and DC values on the XOUT and YOUT test points on the game board. The DC should be between -1V and +1V, and the AC should be between 2 and 4 volts AC. (This is approximate, as it's going to fluctuate as the game cycles through attract mode.) If the AC is less than a volt for either X or Y, then there's a game board problem.
Note you should check all of the other game board voltages as well. This includes the +5V, +12V, -5V, and the +15V and -15V. Most of the test points are above the area where the pots are. Feel free to measure and post them here, along with the AC and DC values from the XOUT and YOUT test points.
Beyond that, I'm guessing you are likely seeing a red light on the deflection board, which is the spot killer. This LED lights when there is no deflection, which can be either due to no signal coming from the game board, or deflection board problems. So if it's lit, it doesn't tell you a lot. If it ISN'T lit however, that actually means the deflection board is mostly working, though it can have other issues.
Also, check if you are getting HV. One easy way to do this is to just hold your hand in front of the tube. You should be able to feel static electricity if there is HV. If there is no HV, that's part of your problem (though possibly not the only issue).
You should also replace Q500/501/502, and remove the R100 and R101 resistors from the deflection board, which are a common issue with these. See here for more on that issue and mod (see post #5, and the thread it links to):
https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=403217
If you want to check the above and let us know, we can walk you through repairing it yourself. But if you want to just send the boards in, feel free to PM me.
Pulled the whole monitor?
It comes out the front (which actually wasn't clear to me the first time I tried, lol). You just need to take the front off of the game.