BattleZone Monitor 19V2000

Scucci

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Since I got my boards tested last night, I think I'll just go ahead and dive into this cabinet as my next official project.

So, next stop is the monitor.

I have 0 experience with vectors... so, go easy on me.

I'll list what I've got going on, and you tell me what to do, I do it... screw it up the first time, make it right the second time and we can get this show on the road.

F700, gone... no where to be found. Smallest issue considering everything else (surprisingly)

R713, fried (to a crisp)... looks like it took out C702 with it.
R705, looks like it was starting to cook when they finally shut the damned thing off.
R718, browning.

Spot killer LED on, no neck glow.

None of the can transistors are shorted to the chassis.

Before I start replacing, and probably ultimately frying, resistors... what/where should I be checking?

Looking for crap I can be checking without power to the monitor... if the power's fry'ng it, there there has to be something that's letting that happen, right?

Again, first XY, go easy on me.
 
Read it (thanks for the link), didn't see anything that directly related to the fried resistors... but it was an informative read. I'll probably got back through it a few times again just to be sure I didn't miss anything.

I know SOME work was done to the board as some point... by, as best I can tell, the Hulk with tourettes... there are some deep nicks on the solder side of the board, some that had to be fixed with jumper wires no less. But I did check all of those and they work out fine. Some of the resistors on the board were "ghetto rigged" by having 2 resistors tied together to increase resistance. Not sure if that's a factory thing or not, but on the board there are 2 sets of resistors like that, both were fried. Probably a coinsidence? Either way, I'll be reaplacing them with a single resistor that matches the manual.

D302 was also tied inline with a 100ohm resisitor... should that be taken back to just a diode or was the resistor there for a reason (factory jibberish?).

I checked the bridge DB100, was fine... no shorts.

I reflowed everything that looked even a -little- iffy.

Before I do a parts order, is there anything else I should be test... everything in the area of the flyback seems to be fine at a glance, I didn't see anything in there that would cause a huge power issue (minus the flyback). As it is now, I'm just thinking about ordering 3-4 sets of parts and hoping for the best.
 
They're really not too difficult to work on, I think in your case you should just start with the basics.... replace burnt/missing parts with the correct units the schematics call for, order a cap kit w/transistors (the 4 TO3's on the frame, make sure to use insulators) from Bob Roberts, replace the two large 6800uf caps just because they're cheap, do the mod and eliminate R100 & R101, and definately install 4 new trim pots (Bob has them as well in a kit) as this will really stabilize the new picture.

Cap not only the deflection board but the HV board as well. Inspect both boards for cracked or broken traces. Resolder all header pins.

You mention a resistor inline with D302... are you sure that's not at position D502? If so, that designates an earlier revision of the board, later versions with an "E" suffix had board modifications to eliminate this. It's detaled on page 57 of the FAQ Modessitt linked you to.
 
I did an order from Bob today... anything with the word "V2000" got ordered... plus some other parts for some other games.

I still have to replace the resistors and that burnt cap (not sure what it's called, but I think I found it on Mouser).

After I got done with that, I pulled the boards again, reflowed all the connectors again (removed ALL old solder this time instead of just adding more), and pulled and cleaned the HV diode while I was at it since according to Bob the grease can build up around it and cause leaking.

After I get my orders in and get everything replaced, I'm really hope'ng she'll fire right up, instead of just catching on fire.

I was worried this BattleZone project would take months to be done with... minus a piece for the CP, it looks like (God help me) it only took me (not counting waiting for parts), 4 days or so (actual work time). ... that's assuming the monitor will work for me.
 
I always replace "Big Blue" on the Atari vector games if it hasn't been replaced. I have had it cause all kind of funky problems with the monitor.
 
Oddly enough, I think I have about 4 of those laying around here...

I'm not aiming to replace the one that's in there right now because it could still be good... but it's nice to know they can cause more than game board issues.

Thanks.
 
Okay, monitor has been recapped, repotted, refused (new fuses... not denied), all can x's replaced and checked, and redioded (D506)... HV diode has been cleaned, all connectors reflowed... now, we (me and... well, me) just have to wait for the mouser order to get here then I'll be replacing the fried resistors and cap... and just to be safe, I'll sacrafice a goat to the mighty god Ra tomorrow morning at 7:06 (6:66)...

If this thing goes up in smoke tomorrow (depending on the USPS) when I plug it in... I'm just going to shit the bed and start collectioning ceramic chickens...
 
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