Battlezone help!

TheRickster

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Game doesn't play at all (not even blind), nothing shows in test mode.

Reseating the chips as we speak.
Also checking fuses.
Also think the power supply is ok But if someone wants to give pointers are how to tell if it's distributing correctly let me know.


Anything else to look for on these machines that is a typical problem or anyone else have anything that we might not think to check along the way let me know. :)
 
Anything? Only have around another 30mins - an hour to work on it before I have to head home for the night.
 
Start with the Power Brick, providing that it isn't the safety interlock not being pushed in. (or pulled out if the back door is off)
 
Yeah we have the door switches taped down so that shouldn't be an issue.

We played with the board and the multimeter and I think it's working correctly, however I'm not sure exactly how to make sure it's distributing the power correctly.

Anyone know a page that shows which parts should be getting how many volts?
 
Ok had a chance to examine some stuff now the power brick is blowing the 4 fuse every time we try to turn it on. Just curious as to what I need to start replacing first... I'm guessing power brick? (just taking in the possible options since this is the first game i've rebuilt on my own without a friend here to help.)

Also the monitor has a bit of grease on it and on the flyback. Haven't really worked with a vector before so was just curious if this was some type of grease to help it from corroding or if it's something dumb on here...
 
If your saying the F4 fuse is blowing, then you may have a short on the AR board. F4 feeds 36VAC to AR board. Most likely one of those four little diodes located by the 36VAC test lug, has a short.

First remove the power brick from the cab and flip it over. Find the part that is square with four wires connected to it. Thats the bridge rectifier. Test the AC to DC for shorts.
If its ok, then proceed to testing the AR board for shorts. If you find a short in the Bridge rectifier, then replace it. You'll need a 35 amp one.

You can try by unpluging everything from the power brick. Replace the fuse with a proper 4 amp slow blow fuse(don't use fast acting fuses). Power on the game, if the fuse still pops, then the short is in the power brick, if it doesn't pop the short in the game. Next try connecting the power brick to the AR board(hookup the group of two connectors, leave the group of three connectors unplugged).
 
Thanks, I'll try all of that tomorrow when I get back to the cab... I hastily kind of took all the boards home with me without thinking to post on here first (whoops) but shouldn't be to hard other than the ground wires i just cut going to the power brick haha.

Thanks for the pointers though.

Also just in case this isn't it does anybody know what the going rate for a working bz is? I don't want to spend much more than I can get out of it when the time comes to sell.... (This is a non parascope converted stand up as well...)
 
Alright I tried the powersupply with nothing plugged in, fuse was good, plugged the two connectors in for the ar board and it was still good, plugged the rest of the wiring harness (the other 3 plugs in) and it blew. Think that would be the AR board or a short in the wiring harness? Or am I just being dumb and it'll always blow without having a board plugged in...
 
Alright I tried the powersupply with nothing plugged in, fuse was good, plugged the two connectors in for the ar board and it was still good, plugged the rest of the wiring harness (the other 3 plugs in) and it blew. Think that would be the AR board or a short in the wiring harness? Or am I just being dumb and it'll always blow without having a board plugged in...

Most likely a bad coin lockout coil on the coin door. Unplug the coin door only and try it again.
 
I believe I had the coin door plugged in and it didn't blow, unless the coin door is one of the connectors on the ar board. (if it is do you know which one) What I followed it's right into the power supply though. I need to print the schematics out so I can actually read them. >_< Have to do that next time I head to school.

thanks again for the suggestions and baring my complete clueless haha.
 
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lolwut
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Any updates on this? It's been a great read thus far. I've been waiting to hear "it came up and I just played 10 games of it!!"
 
No I'm going back to work on it Sunday at the earliest. I realized I didn't have the ar board plugged in right though. I was thinking the "bottom 2" he posted earlier was with it being mounted but it was if the board was sitting straight. Pretty sure it's going to be the ar board.

Just curious as to why it's been a great read... :p
 
Anything? Only have around another 30mins - an hour to work on it before I have to head home for the night.

The more you delve into learning about and fixing your battlezone the funnier this statement probably sounds to you huh? I wish these old non-working vectors were 30 minute projects. Maybe for experts who do this for a living.
 
Oh I know they can take awhile... I was expecting to get anything accomplished in that 30 minutes - an hour.

So vintage gamer are we buddies now? can I has your AIM? haha. Our problems sound like they might be the same.
 
If you're lucky the monitor will be fine. When I had a power issue with my Asteriods Deluxe, I got virtually the same thing you're getting on your battlezone. Lit marquee, solid lit start button, led's on the pcb, but no sound or video. Once I got it figured out the game played great!
 
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