Battlezone help...please

[ChadTower]

I did reflow the header pins on the main and aux boards several years ago but will do it again just to be on the safe side. I hand't previously re-flowed anything on the ARII but will do it this time around.

I mean in the connector. The edge pins very commonly crack in the housing and cause intermittent or no electrical connection. Compressing them does not help there. Really, if you're going to work on Atari games, you need to learn how to repin connectors. I've done a bunch of them now and in my experience it's not even worth chasing issues in Atari cabs until you have redone the connectors.

 

[Talon2000]

Talon2000 - sorry for the newb/dumb question but where and how do I meter the x y outputs?

Depending on what type of meter you have, auto range, or not. If not set the range to 20Vac put the black led on a ground lug, and then the red on the x out lug. then the same for Y. You should read around 2-4 Vac if the game is in attract mode. The voltage will vary depending on what is supposed to be displayed on the screen.

If you are reading 0 or anything higher than say 10vac you've got video out problems.

 

[dezbaz]

Really, if you're going to work on Atari games, you need to learn how to repin connectors.

I do agree

I have one of these, it takes the hard work out of the job.

From here
http://www.diversehobbies.com/shop/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=122

Put little bit of heat shrink on each one too maybe

 

[mac622]

Depending on what type of meter you have, auto range, or not. If not set the range to 20Vac put the black led on a ground lug, and then the red on the x out lug. then the same for Y. You should read around 2-4 Vac if the game is in attract mode. The voltage will vary depending on what is supposed to be displayed on the screen.

If you are reading 0 or anything higher than say 10vac you've got video out problems.

Okay, I installed the new edge connectors (not a job I'm looking forward to re-doing anytime soon), re-flowed the header pins on both boards, re-flowed the Molex connectors on the ARII, fired it up and it's still the same - plays blind but nothing on the monitor. I still have neck glow but the LED is lit on the monitor pcb and the neon lamps are not on. I re-checked the DC voltage at several places on the main and aux boards and got good readings. I put my DMM on auto range and checked the VAC on the X and Y outputs and got readings of 0.24VAC on the X output and 0.54VAC on the Y output (see attached pics). What else can I check and what could be wrong?

 

[Talon2000]

Can't tell what the range is set to on your meter. But if you are only getting .25vac out of the x and y, then you've got dead video outs.

If the machine is playing blind, then it's most likely not on the cpu side of things, or roms.

You'll need an o'scope to start tracing the output signals backwards from the output until you find out where it's stopped.

 

[mac622]

Unfortunately, scoping something is above my skills set and tool set! Are there any other opionions/options other than sending the boards out for repair?

 

[MajorHavoc]

The games plays blind. Do you have a way to determine whether the problem is on the boards or the monitor (known good monitor or boardset)? If it is board problems, you either need a scope to determine where the problem is or you are at the point of shotgunning parts and hope that you (or whoever recommends what to replace) guesses right.

Sorry, wish I could recommend a next step with the tools you have.

 

[Mike Doyle]

God Damn guys! I never suggested melting the connector!

I like to keep the game as original as possible and use aftermarket edge connectors as a last resort.

READ what I wrote again, it says gently heat the connector while lite external pressure is applied to remove any outward bowing. It's a technique that works great, keeps the machine original, and finally, doesn't cost a dime.

Don't let that get in the way of busting my balls because someone didn't read what I wrote.

 

[MajorHavoc]

Too funny! When I READ your suggestion I saw a lot of room for disastrous results. Fortunately, that did not happen, just a melted edge connecter housing.

I think the OP probably over-heated the housing or did not understand your intent. Or if they are like me, they do not read too well!

God Damn guys! I never suggested melting the connector!

 

[mac622]

God Damn guys! I never suggested melting the connector!

Don't let that get in the way of busting my balls because someone didn't read what I wrote.

Mike - I hope you don't think i was busting your balls. I took 100% ownership for my blunder and didn't blame it on you at all. My heat gun is about 40 years old and EXTREMELY hard to regulate the heat. I just overdid it a tad. It's all good though - it now has nice new edge connectors so if i ever do get this POS up and running again it will be one less problem point. Speaking of which, any suggestions on what parts i should start shotgunning before sending the boards out for repair? Unfortunately I don't have a good boardset or monitor to check as MajorHavoc suggested.

 

[ChadTower]

If you do want to send them out I highly suggest Bill Gilbert. I can get you his contact info. He does great work, does it reasonably, and lives about 3 miles away from me. He has done a few boardsets for me including a Battlezone.

 

[mac622]

If you do want to send them out I highly suggest Bill Gilbert. I can get you his contact info. He does great work, does it reasonably, and lives about 3 miles away from me. He has done a few boardsets for me including a Battlezone.

Hi - PM sent

 

[mac622]

The saga continues but now I'm a little upset/confused. After going through all the trouble shooting steps you guys were very helpful with it seemed the problem was a board issue so I sent my boards out to a well known tech to let them have a look. The tech said said there were a couple of shorts that were probably caused from re-seating the chips (Hmmm - it wasn't working before re-seating the chips??) and some traces needed to be repaired as a result. He also mentioned another issue that he worked on but I can't remember what is was but I'm pretty sure it wasn't chip related. Anyway, he said it was a couple hours of work and he let it burn in for 24 hours at his shop and everything was fine so I sent him his fee and got my boards back a few days later.

Upon opening the box I notice the contents look exactly the way they looked when I sent it out. This wasn't a standard packing job as I was a little short on supplies so I used a combination of bubble wrap, peanuts and shredded paper and layered them in a very particular order. That's the only reason I would know it looked the same because I had such a hard time packing it up with the limited supplies OK, so I think this person is very fastidious/anal and put everything back the way he got. I smile and move on. I then look at the boards to inspect the trace repair and other work that was done but can't find them. Still thinking the best I figured this guy does great work and his repair are very neat and near undetectable to the untrained eye. I then put the boards in the game, fire it up and much to my disappointment I get the same blank screen as
before :-( I'm seriously bummed at this point.

The game has played blind from the start so in an act of desperation I decide to fire up a game to see if I get anything at all to happen. At first I got nothing but when I turn the tank in either direction I get a flickering vertical line in the bottom half of the center of the screen and another line in the upper right side of the screen angled at about 11 o'clock and 5 o'clock that scrolls as the tank is being turned left or right. This upper right hand line scrolls, disappears then reappears as the controller handles are continually held to moving the tank left or right. I'm fairly certain I wasn't able get these lines before I sent the board out but don't know for sure.

I'm really, really hoping the tech did perform the repair work as stated but I'd be lying if I didn't say I have my doubts based on things mentioned above. The fact I do get some activity now however leads me to believe some work was done. What do you think could be wrong at this point? Do I need to adjust any monitor settings or board settings to sync with whatever work was performed?

Sorry for the rant guys but I'm totally lost and frustrated right now. I really hope I can get this going before I lose my patience and take an axe to it.

Thanks