Battlezone half collapsed

BobsterD

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I have a Battlezone with a G05 in it, and the bottom part of the game has collapsed into the center. I went though this monitor about a year ago and it has been running fine until a couple days ago...

I've seen issues with vectors collapsing the left or right sides... but not top or bottom.. any ideas?
 
I have a Battlezone with a G05 in it, and the bottom part of the game has collapsed into the center. I went though this monitor about a year ago and it has been running fine until a couple days ago...

I've seen issues with vectors collapsing the left or right sides... but not top or bottom.. any ideas?

Yep, it can happen top/bottom just as left/right. If it's a -802 (I'm not sure about the -801s) then it's one of the so-called "bottle cap" transistors mounted on the monitor frame. Specifically, Q608 or Q609. I think Q609 is the one for negative (downward) deflection... The good news is that these are screwed in, so no desoldering is required to pull them and test with a DMM. ...or if you're not the testing type, for about $10 just replace all 4 of those deflection amp xistors.
 
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I had a similar issue. Ended up being the board. Below is what mine looked like. The comments indicate what I did to fix it.

 
Yep on bad header pins. Sometimes you can just wiggle the connector where it goes into the deflection board and see if it colapses/uncollapses the picture.

If not, check those chassis mounted transistors.
 
Well, the latest... seems that Q609, the 2N3792, is cold during operation. Swapped and no change. What may cause this?
 
This could cause it.

Yup. If swapping the xistor didn't do it, certainly suspect a bad connection. Look on the bottom of the PCB for solder joints at the headers (a header is the thing with pins on it, into which connectors plug) that look like this: http://www.agthompsonfamily.com/vw/SebDLMCrack.jpg or perhaps less obvious, like this: http://home.comcast.net/~tatng/Auto/MainRelay-5-cracked-joint.JPG

Best thing to do is to de-solder (with a solder sucker or wick) then re-solder fresh. You could also just heat it up with the iron and add a little new solder (called "re-flowing" the joint)... For me, it's out with the old, in with the new.
 
Well, it's been awhile and I thought I's spend some time with this G05 again. I have found that D608 is shorted so I will replace it. Does anyone have any input as to anything that would make D608 go bad, or if it went bad on it's own, will it take anything out with it?

Thanks again!
 
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