battlezone arII, no voltage after rebuild

tron guy

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Here is a link to the monitor thread I started:

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=212437

It outlines how I was getting nothing going on this battlezone project I picked up.

Anyway, in that thread I list the voltages I was getting on the arII at the test points.

I rebuilt this thing with a bob roberts kit, I replaced the big blue, I pulled the power brick and cleaned the fuse holders and replaced the fuses.

Now I get shit for voltages. nothing.

any ideas?

edit: no blown fuses, I did have to replace R29 since it was virtually disintegrated though. Put the same value resistor that is in R30. Can it be put in backwards? would it matter?
 
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Here is a link to the monitor thread I started:

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=212437

It outlines how I was getting nothing going on this battlezone project I picked up.

Anyway, in that thread I list the voltages I was getting on the arII at the test points.

I rebuilt this thing with a bob roberts kit, I replaced the big blue, I pulled the power brick and cleaned the fuse holders and replaced the fuses.

Now I get shit for voltages. nothing.

any ideas?
Disconnect the AR2 and check the voltages on the power brick. If they're not good, something went wrong during the rebuild; recheck your work. If that looks good, unplug the game PCB and plug in the AR2 and debug that.

AR2 won't work without the power brick working. Game won't work without the AR2 working. Start at the power brick and work your way up.
 
referring back to page 11 of hte manul, next to the fuse position F1 there is a 3 prong molex, I am getting 120 out of there. Not sure where else to test.



again back to the arii, Is R29 a factor here? can it be?
 
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ok well the manual on page 11 shows a voltage selection plug. There is not one present on my power brick. It is an empty hole.


http://crazykong.com/manuals/Battlezone.man.pdf

Might be a US-only supply? Both my Atari power supplies have one and you can plug a different connector in to select different input voltages.

You want to look at the schematics, not the manual: http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/B/Battlezone-spl.pdf

No matter whether the selection block is there or not, the voltages coming out J5 should be the same. Measure all the voltages on J5 and compare to the schematics. If they all look good, plug in the AR2 and check those.
 
referring back to page 11 of hte manul, next to the fuse position F1 there is a 3 prong molex, I am getting 120 out of there. Not sure where else to test.



again back to the arii, Is R29 a factor here? can it be?

According to Bob Roberts:

Bob Roberts said:
Often times the pins in the game edge connector that correspond to these sense lines make poor contact to the PCB causing the added current draw to char one of these [R29, R30]. Most times the resistor is still good…

If you have a multimeter, test the resistor, and replace it if you aren't seeing 10Ω resistance.

I would make sure your voltages are good on the brick before you worry about the AR2.
 
Ok, but for the record, I replaced the resistors already, and the arII has nothing. So if hte voltages check out on the power brick, it will do me no good to "check" the arII again.

I will get on the power brick tomorrow.

thanks
 
Those are 10ohm resistors and they are burnt because your edge connector at the main board is not making a good connection on the +5 volt line. Look and see if your main board looks burnt at that the edge connector. You need new pins and probably a new edge connector on the harness side. As for no voltages on the AR board, must be something you just did as those voltages you had measured looked pretty good. Check your fuses again with a meter and one side lifted up out of the holder.
 
I looked at the board again, everything appears to be installed correctly.
I emailed bob roberts as well and he referred me to a page he has concerning the arii board.

I have no shorts, I followed actions perfectly.

would a dead big blue cause this? cabarets are cool until you have to pull the fucking power brick. It's a 20 step process of removing the speaker, moving this moving that. I don't want to pull that bitch out again.

anyway, I need to test voltages on the power brick still I guess. not sure if I will do that tonight or not.
 
ok I pulled the arII and I forgot to solder the last transistor into position. the 3 legs were just hanging there, but hadn't bent and shorted to each other or anything like that.

so I solder it in, clipped the legs, adn retested.

10.8 test point = zero, nada
-5 = -15.1
22=25.5
-22=-25.5
12=12.1

my 10.8 is giving me jack shit, does this narrow it down a bit? -5 is a bit out of whack too huh? I think I did a little turn on the blue adjustment pot earlier, but thought I had moved it back. should I adjust it to get the -5 into better position?
 
checked all of the fuses, they are good. There isn't a single burnt spot on any portion of either board at the edge connector. I may find time to mess with it some more today.


Main problem I'd like to address now, is why I get nothing at 10.3 or 10.8 whatever it is, and my -5 being -15.
 
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