here maybe this will help
i would also check your voltages coming out of the solenoid +++++ No Coils Working Diagnostics.
If none of the coils work, first look at the power supply:
Rectifier board test point 5 (TP5, top right test point) should be 43 volts DC. If no 43 volts here, check fuse F4. Remove the fuse and check it with a DMM set to ohms ("buzz out" the fuse).
The reason we remove fuses is to force a verification that the fuse holder is in good condition. The fuse holder clips can fatigue or burn, and often need to be replaced. If this is the case, 43 volts may not be getting to the rest of the game.
If fuse F4 is good, the lack of 43 volts at TP5 is probably due to a failed (open) bridge rectifier BR3 on the rectifier board.
If fuse F4 is bad, and a new fuse immediately blows at power-up, then bridge rectifier BR3 on the rectifier board is probably shorted.
If 43 volts is found at TP5, check rectifier board connector J1 pin 6 for 43 volts DC. This is usually a brown wire (Bally) and goes directly to the playfield flipper coils.
Check rectifier board connector J3 pin 9 for 43 volts. This goes to the solenoid driver board connector J3 pin 5 for the flipper relay.
Check rectifier board connector J3 pin 12 for 43 volts. This goes to the MPU board connector J4 pin 15, and then to resistor R113.
Check rectifier board connector J3 pin 13 for 43 volts. This goes to the backbox on games that have a knocker in the backbox.
Check rectifier board connector J2 pin 2 for 43 volts. This goes to the lower cabinet for the coin lockout coils. Also goes to the knocker coil on games with the knocker in the lower cabinet. On early games this also goes to the chime unit.
Locate the brown power wire at one of the flipper coils and check for 43 volts DC. If it is present at J1 pin 6 but not at any of the flipper coils, and then there is a wiring problem between the rectifier board connector J1 and the coils.
If only the flipper coils work, than the 1 amp slow-blow under-the-playfield solenoid fuse is problaby blown. Or perhaps the brown wire from the flipper coils to the 1 amp fuse has broken.
If the coils still do not work, check the solenoid driver board for 5 volts DC at TP3. If missing, look for a broken jumper wire on the solenoid driver board connector J3 that goes from pin 13 to pin 25.
If only some coils works (in addition to the flipper coils), look for a broken yellow power wire under the playfield that runs from coil to coil.
Other possible (and more bizarre) problems if coils do not work:
Possible problem with the game's ROM code that goes from the MPU connector J4 pins 5-8,10 to the solenoid driver board connector J4 pins 3-7. This code selects which of the 16 coils will fire. If one line is missing, coils 1 to 4 will not fire. Check MPU and solenoid driver board connectors J4 for broken wires or bad connector pins.
Early A8 sounds boards AS2518-32 (games Lost World through Dolly Parton, though sometimes Star Trek to Dolly Parton will have a AS2518-50 sounds board) use the 43 volts. This sound board uses 43 volts DC to make 12 volts DC with a very crude voltage divider/regulator. Sometimes this sound board circuit fails and will short the 43 volts to ground. When trying to diagnose strange 43 volt coil problems in a games using the A8 soundboard, disconnect the power to the sound board before troubleshooting.
If the 43 volts is missing from the whole game, then the MPU will not complete its 7th flash at power-up. This can be verified by checking for 43VDC on the left side of R113 (located below and to the right of the J4 MPU connector). If the 43VDC is present on the left side of R113 but there is no reading on the right side of the resistor, then replace R113 (2K ohms 1/4 watt). If both sides of R113 show 43 volts then the MPU board may have battery corrosion damaged and the whole area should be repaired.