Bad Power Supplies - Fix Or Replace?

Yeh, don't fix the original Atari linear ARII's either. Buy new ones for 3x ++ the price. Some even have fancy blue LEDs now and voltmeters. Cool. :sneaky:
The choice is yours. I'm sure there are many of us who will take those OG ARII off your hands. LOL

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Fix original when practical and useful.

I run Suzzo Happ when using switchers as the originals just can't keep up.
 
Well crap... this thread just took a turn for the worst. Lol

Yeh, don't fix the original Atari linear ARII's either. Buy new ones for 3x ++ the price. Some even have fancy blue LEDs now and voltmeters. Cool. :sneaky:
The choice is yours. I'm sure there are many of us who will take those OG ARII off your hands. LOL

View attachment 742055

20240114_171734-jpg.716571
 
Yeh, don't fix the original Atari linear ARII's either. Buy new ones for 3x ++ the price. Some even have fancy blue LEDs now and voltmeters. Cool. :sneaky:
The choice is yours. I'm sure there are many of us who will take those OG ARII off your hands. LOL

View attachment 742055

20240114_171734-jpg.716571
they would be worth way more if they came with the SENSE MOD..... ;)
 
Off topic excuse me I am old.

As I have said, once a game is yours. Asking me my opinion about your choices is much like a puppy yapping at an old dog. Laughs

Even with my poor communication skills (remember I have tech in my blood). I understand if you want to be heard respect has to be present.

Let's teach those who want to learn. Gift fellow users not only what part goes where but add in reasons why it blew up. Some people are not ready to learn but remember we are also taking to the user of the future. So Slow down and spend the time to create great advice. The world can use a better klov that is what draws some of use here.

If our advice is soild enough we can create solutions that help out our local vendors. Example the cap kits we use today.

So having a picture of modern switch and the theory of how it works will help those who deals with stuff in the future fighting chance of keeping these old games running.

I hope my advice is understandable, time and effort was used to create it.
 
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I also like keeping the original hardware when possible. I just recapped the power supply in my MK2 cabinet which seems to be the original including the midway part sticker. The machine was only 11 years into its life when I bought it as an UMK3 in MK2 cabinet. Shoutout to @zenomorp for capping my mk2 and nba jam sound boards.

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I started fixing the AT style Peter Chou power supplies on Dynamo cabs since there is no 1:1 replacement available anymore. I wanted factory correct mounting and power switch location so I tinkered and read some info from Ken Layton that helped get me comfortable. I found many of them were easy to fix with a good clean, a new fan, deoxit, a few caps and an occasional diode or resistor.

This lead me to look at the pile of old switchers I had thrown in a bin. I learned early on in this hobby that just because I didn't know how to fix something now doesn't mean I never would so I'd shelf pretty much everything for the future. I knew I could at least harvest some valuable parts from anything pulled out of an arcade game. I spent a few evenings running through power supplies and spending 15 mins and $5 or less in parts each was able to fix a decent pile of them. The ones that didn't have the most common failures and would need much more troubleshooting went back in the bin.

Taking something broken and getting it working feels satisfying. It's not much different from capping a monitor. Saving money is a plus.

Those are actually called IBM-XT or 5150/5160 style power supplies. These are the only ones i dare recap at the moment as they likely will never be produced again.

I actually made an adapter plate that allows you to put in the standard 200W AT style power supply in an XT cutout. So far it works for some Dynamo and Konami cabinets without a hitch.
 
Great find.

This obviously isn't directed at you, but people need to understand that Bob was an operator, not a collector. He was a businessman, not a preservationist. The main variable he was always looking to optimize was money.

Does anyone know if Bob Roberts owned any of the local arcades in the New Orleans area BITD? I didn't know he was an operator.
 
Does anyone know if Bob Roberts owned any of the local arcades in the New Orleans area BITD? I didn't know he was an operator.

Who is Bob?

At the age of 2 he was abandoned by his parents and raised by the Operators of a local arcade, where he learned to speak their language and interact with other Operators of other arcades.
 
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Interesting. I only knew of AT or ATX, but reading https://forum.vcfed.org/index.php?threads/difference-between-xt-and-at-power-supplies.72081/ I guess the difference between XT and AT are minimal. The ones I have pictured are clearly XT though.

Yeah, i went down the power supply rabbit-hole when i was making the mounting plates. I still think a specialized mounting plate out of sheet metal is the easiest way to mount a standard AT style form factor power supply in an existing XT cutout on a cabinet without modifying the cab itself.
 
Those are actually called IBM-XT or 5150/5160 style power supplies. These are the only ones i dare recap at the moment as they likely will never be produced again.

I actually made an adapter plate that allows you to put in the standard 200W AT style power supply in an XT cutout. So far it works for some Dynamo and Konami cabinets without a hitch.
We had a short discussion about this recently in another thread where pat9000 pointed these out. Aren't these brand new XT style supplies?

 
We had a short discussion about this recently in another thread where pat9000 pointed these out. Aren't these brand new XT style supplies?


No but that's a little complicated.

Technically this uses the AT and ATX form factor but still follows the AMOA wiring style approved sometime around 1988-1990. The wiring is identical to that of the XT but they are nowhere close to the same size.

Many XT style power supplies also had a switch on the side to turn the game on and off.

I'll pull an XT and AT power supply out tomorrow and take some nice comparison shots
 
No but that's a little complicated.

Technically this uses the AT and ATX form factor but still follows the AMOA wiring style approved sometime around 1988-1990. The wiring is identical to that of the XT but they are nowhere close to the same size.

Many XT style power supplies also had a switch on the side to turn the game on and off.

I'll pull an XT and AT power supply out tomorrow and take some nice comparison shots
Ok, so a direct swap for XT as far as connections, but still a different overall size? I think my virtua racing uses XT as one of the two supplies per car, and I haven't compared closely but I think they are larger than those above. Maybe the full XT size.
 
Off topic excuse me I am old.

As I have said, once a game is yours. Asking me my opinion about your choices is much like a puppy yapping at an old dog. Laughs

Even with my poor communication skills (remember I have tech in my blood). I understand if you want to be heard respect has to be present.

Let's teach those who want to learn. Gift fellow users not only what part goes where but add in reasons why it blew up. Some people are not ready to learn but remember we are also taking to the user of the future. So Slow down and spend the time to create great advice. The world can use a better klov that is what draws some of use here.

If our advice is soild enough we can create solutions that help out our local vendors. Example the cap kits we use today.

So having a picture of modern switch and the theory of how it works will help those who deals with stuff in the future fighting chance of keeping these old games running.

I hope my advice is understandable, time and effort was used to create it.
This reminds me, just wanted to take the time to thank you and @cwilkson again for helping me troubleshoot my Q*Bert. That thing was dogging me for years and I think we finally got it sorted (knock on wood).
 
This reminds me, just wanted to take the time to thank you and @cwilkson again for helping me troubleshoot my Q*Bert. That thing was dogging me for years and I think we finally got it sorted (knock on wood).
Part of the joy of this hobby for me is to seeing good fellow users enjoy the video games they got. Obviously, I Don't do this for the fame,

Off topic.

Fame explained: I look forward to the time when I can shut up about banning but there are irresponsible people who are happy to take credit away all those who volunteered there. The kindness that strangers shown me was amazing. I get upset when a gift from a friend has been disrespect. Banning has always been look what we done, this includes some of the members on klov.

Enjoy your game, feel free to reach out to me to ask a questions. Happy to help.
 
.... Q*Bert. ....knock on wood....

I see what you did there! :ROFLMAO:

Glad it's working! I need to get a complete Q*Bert power setup still. (I need the game actually!)
I still want to see why Q*Bert has a such a reputation for poor reliability.


Original linear supplies should *always* be repaired. They are easy to diagnose and repair.
And original switchers should be repaired too. Although they might be more difficult to diagnose it's still worth it.

EDIT: inserted missing word "poor" in front of "reliability".
 
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