Baby Pac-Man flipper

bear1

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My Baby Pac-Man right flipper will only work when the left flipper button is pressed at the same time as the right flipper button. Does anyone know what might cause this? Thanks.
 
My Baby Pac-Man right flipper will only work when the left flipper button is pressed at the same time as the right flipper button. Does anyone know what might cause this? Thanks.

What happens in switch test?
 
I went into the solenoid test. The flipper test is test #8. If I hold both flipper buttons in, both flippers activate. If I hold only the left flipper button in, it activates; but if I only hold the right flipper button in, it doesn't activate.
 
I've subscribed to this thread because I really want to hear the solution. I've never encountered this problem but I've worked on plenty of pins.
 
I'm not at my Baby Pac right now but doesn't it have an active switch test? I'm trying to determine whether the game recognizes you hitting the different flipper buttons. Solenoid test isn't helpful for what I'm trying to nail down...

It may be under joystick test.
 
I went into the switch test (the joystick test is on the same screen) and I don't think the flippers are in the switch test. Once in a while the right flipper works by itself, but it usually works only when the left is also pressed. The right flipper has always been problematic, so I replaced all of the parts in both flippers several months ago and the right one still gives me trouble.
 
I went into the switch test (the joystick test is on the same screen) and I don't think the flippers are in the switch test. Once in a while the right flipper works by itself, but it usually works only when the left is also pressed. The right flipper has always been problematic, so I replaced all of the parts in both flippers several months ago and the right one still gives me trouble.

I have a theory on your problem but I want to test something on my machine tonight. I will post after that.
 
The flippers (and their switches) are part of the pinball side so the video side can't tell if they're pressed or not in test mode.... I'm thinking a dirty flipper switch, or misadjusted end of stroke switch but I don't know why it's acting exactly like it is, that's pretty weird.

When you hit the left flipper it opens that end of stroke switch, which means that it's only using the 'hold coil' on the flipper, i.e. not as much power... so perhaps there's a flaky connection on the right flipper at the e.o.s. switch, or at the flipper switch, that needs more juice to 'make' the connection. You'd think it would work without the left coil on at all, though... so I'm not sure.
 
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I just verified that my machine won't acknowledge a flipper button is pressed in switch test (others said this but I thought it would be helpful to confirm).

In addition to the comments of things to check before me - I'm thinking you may have a cold solder joint on either the transistors on your solenoid board or a cold solder on a header pin associated with the flipper switches. Until you change your wiring connectors these will always be suspect.

The other issues suffered are easier to check and more likely than what I'm suggesting. Start there.

Did this issue suddenly pop up?
 
I'll look into these ideas. The right flipper has been an ongoing issue since I got the game over a year ago. The left flipper has always been normal, but the right flipper was weaker. I replaced all of the parts in both flippers, but the right one would still have issues, like a slight delay, or not working at all. I cleaned the end of stroke switch a little while ago and it was normal again for a little while, but it gradually started to delay to the point where again it usually doesn't work unless the left one is also pressed. I have also found that if I manually hold the right flipper in the up position, then press and hold the right flipper button, the flipper does stay up until I release the button. (Don't know if this will add any more insight.)
 
I'll look into these ideas. The right flipper has been an ongoing issue since I got the game over a year ago. The left flipper has always been normal, but the right flipper was weaker. I replaced all of the parts in both flippers, but the right one would still have issues, like a slight delay, or not working at all. I cleaned the end of stroke switch a little while ago and it was normal again for a little while, but it gradually started to delay to the point where again it usually doesn't work unless the left one is also pressed. I have also found that if I manually hold the right flipper in the up position, then press and hold the right flipper button, the flipper does stay up until I release the button. (Don't know if this will add any more insight.)


I think all of this tells me:

1. If you have a new switch AND it's aligned properly then your problem is related to either wiring or your solenoid board.

2. Wiring can fail in its connection to the switch or (more likely) it's connection to the solenoid board (pin headers and IDC connectors need to be replaced to rule this out).

3. Next - there is a transistor which controls the flipper too... I'm wondering if weak solder connections on it are causing it to work only when the other coil flipper fires for a weird reason.

These are just my theories. If your flipper parts are new and installed correctly my money is on your IDC connectors. I replaced all mine. Took me several hours of on and off crimping. My hand still hurts from it... lol

I love my Baby Pac but my solenoid board started acting up during a party this past weekend. It's always something. I guess nearly a year of stability I was due for an issue. Hehehe
 
I bet it does have something to do with the connectors or transistors. The flipper itself is fine. If I move it manually, it moves freely. I need to look at the manual to find which transistors and connectors are associated with the flippers. I replaced all of the connectors on the MPU board, but the connectors on the other boards are still the original ones.
 
It looks like I fixed it (again)! :) Let's see if it stays normal now. I removed the solenoid board and checked the solders and they all looked good. So I cleaned all of the pins and cleaned the end of stroke switches again. Thanks everyone for your help. It's great to be a part of this community.
 
It looks like I fixed it (again)! :) Let's see if it stays normal now. I removed the solenoid board and checked the solders and they all looked good. So I cleaned all of the pins and cleaned the end of stroke switches again. Thanks everyone for your help. It's great to be a part of this community.

Glad you got it fixed. I feel like it is definitely your connectors since unhooking the board and reseating them caused it to work again. So you will likely see this problem (or others) again until the connectors are replaced.
 
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