B & K rejuvenators pictures

KenLayton

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Here are pictures of the good B & K picture tube rejuvenators/testers.

Oldest to newest are 466, 467, 470, 480, 490 (a.k.a. the 490A). They are shown from left to right in the pictures below.

As originally released, the 466 had a different connector and adapters. The latest "setup" manual has instructions for converting the 466 to use the modern "CR" series adapters. This basically converts the 466 into a model 470.

Please note that early production runs of the model 467 had a 2-wire power cord. Later production of the 467 came with a 3-wire power cord. It does not matter whether it came with a 2-wire or 3-wire power cord, it works equally fine.
 

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  • B&K 470.jpg
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  • B&K 490.jpg
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The very last rejuvenator model that B & K made is the 490-B which is all computerized inside. This model uses totally different adapters than previous models. This model uses the "CA" series which has a DB-9 computer connector on it. B & K did make an adapter that allowed you to use the older "CR" series adapters on this model.
 

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Neat. I have a 470 and have used it many times in the past 20 years or so. Although, it doesnt see much action anymore.

That 490 is cool looking.
 
ken, what do you think of the 490b? Why does it have a connection to the anode?

Good question. My "new" Müter BMR-2005 (I upgraded from the BMR-80 model) also has an Anode connection but the manual doesn't make clear why it is needed (if it is needed)....this is also a microprocessor controlled rejuvenator by the way...
 
I wonder if the anode connections are there to fully discharge the tube? I've fired up the 470 on a tube that still had a charge and it was quite the surprise.
 
Fixing these systems isn't too bad. They suffer horribly from cracked solder joints on the board interconnects.

Beyond that, look for open resistors (1% precision!!!) in the various circuits for functions that don't work. You don't need 1% precision resistors to put back in. If you can find them, great! If not, grab a few gold band (5%ers) and check 'em with your meter to find one within tolerance and you'll be good to go.

You can also add a couple together to get the right resistance.
 
Ken, what do you think of the 490-B? Why does it have a connection to the anode?

I've never owned or used the 490-B. Without having a manual to look at for the 490-B, I'd have to guess that the anode lead is either for special applications or maybe to fully discharge the tube.

The 490-B was the last of the rejuvenator line from B & K and it was their top-of-the-line model, fully micoprocessor controlled.
 
I decided to upgrade my rejuvenator especially because of the microprocessor controlled rejuvenation. I've had good results with manual operating the BMR-80, but I never felt 100% sure when to stop the process. The microprocessor takes away that sorrow, simply press start and you're done. (Of course you still have to first set-up the cut-off and do some testing BEFORE deciding to rejuvenate a tube).

The Müters are built like tanks, rock solid. Never had a problem with the first one, the 2005 works great too. Don't think they are (widely) available in the US but if you're in Europe they pop up on ebay.de very regularly for great prices. I paid €110 (about 140 USD) for the 2005. That is a LOT cheaper than f.i. the Sencore CR-7000.
 
The B & K model 465 can be used on modern tubes if you use the B & K model SP-65 adapter. The SP-65 plugs into the 465 rejuvenator and then you can plug modern "CR" series adapters into the SP-65. A rotary switch on the SP-65 allows you to select which gun to test. This combination of adapter and rejuvenator makes the model 465 into the functional equivalent of a model 470 rejuvenator.
 

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  • BK SP65 adapter end view.JPG
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I have the B&K 490-B. It is very easy to use. I think anyone could do a rejuvenation with this machine.
I'm not sure what the anode cup is for, but I always hook it up. I guess I thought all rejuvenators had this, I guess not.
 
I have the B&K 490-B. It is very easy to use. I think anyone could do a rejuvenation with this machine.
I'm not sure what the anode cup is for, but I always hook it up. I guess I thought all rejuvenators had this, I guess not.


Do you have a manual? I know the Sencore units came with a high voltage probe that you could use to see the high voltage but it isn't used during a rejuvenation, just additional troubleshooting. Maybe the -B has something similar?
 
I have the paper manual, but here is the 490b pdf manual also:
http://www.bkprecision.com/downloads/manuals/en/490B_manual.pdf

Manual states: Used to apply voltage to the tube through the high voltage cable supplied with the instrument.

Here's the manual for the 490-B straight from B & K's website:

http://www.bkprecision.com/downloads/manuals/en/490B_manual.pdf


Thanks guys. It appears from reading the manual that it is only used during a rejuvenation cycle. My guess is it provides a little extra margin of safety.
 
Where do you find that adapter for the 465? I just happened to acquire one..
 

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It wouldn't be that hard to build one... you just need a rotary switch to select the gun to test/rejuvinate.
 
Fixing these systems isn't too bad. They suffer horribly from cracked solder joints on the board interconnects.

Beyond that, look for open resistors (1% precision!!!) in the various circuits for functions that don't work. You don't need 1% precision resistors to put back in. If you can find them, great! If not, grab a few gold band (5%ers) and check 'em with your meter to find one within tolerance and you'll be good to go.

You can also add a couple together to get the right resistance.

Is there a easy way to pull the board apart for this? That big rotary seems to be connected to multiple boards.

Also, on the 490 at least, there are a bunch of wires with little female pins on the end that just slip over male pins on one of the boards, and it seems they don't make great connection or slip off and are a bitch to get back on. Not sure if there is a wiring diagram to show what should be where since it's not evident when you have three different wire colors loose and not sure which pins to reattach to. I got lucky.

A local buddy dropped off a non-working 467 (powers up but doesn't rejuv or test anything) for me to look at since I have a working 467 already...
 
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