ATW (Arctic) chassis info

diabolus

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Does anyone know who the manufacturer is for this chassis? I just picked up the cab yesterday and haven't had too much time to play with it, but it has vertical collapse (just a single line). I was told by the seller that when he bought it, the previous owner told him it needed a new width coil. I was just curious if anyone had any info about it, such as the real manufacturer and whether or not any documentation exists that might help.

On the side it says Chassis CM-20A 110v 0.3A ATW Inc. Made in Taiwan Sept 1982. Here are a few horrible shots from a borrowed camera. The camera STINKS, so even though it was on a tripod I couldn't get a clear picture. I can try again though if these pics don't help enough. The tube is a Panasonic 19" 19VKUP22.
 

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It looks very similar (but not exactly) like some of the Toei models:

mon64.jpg

cm-r20.jpg
 
BTW - what cab is it in? Some of the game manuals have monitor info and schematics in them....
 
After looking through random chassis online for far too long, I found one that looks very, very similar. I hope it's not my eyes playing tricks on me.

http://chuckwagon.nonjamma.com/images/stories/auctions/chuckwagon/chuck004-b.jpg

Mine does not have the Aunix logo, but other than that, it's hard to find differences, aside from not having the big black axial cap in the middle. Those of you a lot more experienced with this than I, would you say this is a match? That photo is an Aunix PEIC-31083 according to that auction.

Btw, the cabinet is an Artic cabaret (I spelled this incorrectly in the title) but the game is a conversion only, so I know at least the game (and probably harness) was changed. Unless Artic used Tehkan pinouts...but the original game was likely Devil Fish.

After thinking about it a little further, a width coil wouldn't be the cause for vertical collapse, so unless the collapse is hiding further problems, I'm going to assume the width coil is fine and the seller was given wrong info. Is this safe to assume? The plan was to start with recapping and looking for cold joints regardless.

Thanks for the assistance, it is much appreciated.
 
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More pictures and a new discovery. I finally had a chance to finally pull the chassis out today and look further. Here are better pictures, hopefully someone is familiar with it, because now I really need documentation.

Take a look at the (unfortunately) blurry pic of the corner - that resistor is definitely scorched. I am colorblind to begin with, so reading resistor bands is difficult as it is - there's no way to tell what those colors are now. I'm not sure what the value of a replacement should be. Any ideas?

I will write down all of the caps, their values, etc when I recap this bad boy and share it here.
 

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If you have the same ATW model and need a cap list for a kit, or if you just want the info in case you come across one, here ya go. (CM-20A-1)

31 caps total (Value, Voltage, Location)

47uf, 16v, C614
22uf, 50v, C735
100uf, 160v, C611
330uf, 16v, C726
3.3uf, 50v, C727
10uf, 160v, C609
1000uf, 16v, C623
3.3uf, 50v, C734
100uf, 10v, C724
22uf, 16v, C612
100uf, 160v, C725
10uf, 160v, C730
10uf, 25v, C620
10uf, 25v, C621
10uf, 25v, C605
330uf, 10v, C615
1uf, 50v, C603
2.2uf, 50v, C606
3.3uf, 50v, C708
33uf, 160v, C909
22uf, 160v, C907
1uf, 160v, C908
470uf, 160v, C906 (NOTE: has 3 legs - positive, negative and NC)
220uf, 25v, C305
220uf, 16v, C306
1uf, 50v, C701
100uf, 10v, C303
100uf, 10v, C302
100uf, 10v, C301
47uf, 16v, C304
10uf, 25v, C707
 
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Well, the vertical collapse is fixed. I capped the board except for 1, because apparently I forgot to include it in my order, the large capacitor at C906. I might hold off on that anyway.

KLOVer ZeNeR was a huge help. He was able to not only verify that the chassis in these machines are Aunix, but he also looked at his and read off to me the value of the resistor over the phone. Great guy, I definitely owe him a beer or something :D

I have the image adjusted and the colors look pretty good. However, I have a new problem. The image on the screen waves like a flag, and the marquee has started to flicker.

Edit: read more threads on this and the one cap I didn't replace yet seems to be the cause of the problem. Kicking myself for not adding that, it's not on my packing list. Oh well, I'll see if I can get it at Canal Electronics in Chinatown. If he has none in stock, I suppose I'll get it from Mr. Bob Roberts.
 
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The waving isn't always caused by the filter cap. I just fixed a waving monitor by replacing the voltage regulator. Also, a bad rectifying diode can cause this, or even a bad isolation transformer...
 
I see, thanks for the help Mod. I don't think it's the diode, tested that when I had it out, but I'll double check it. I guess I should just order from Bob and have this stuff on hand just in case. Again, I really appreciate it.:)
 
My Father had the correct value filter cap with his random parts, so he kindly dropped it off for me tonight, I swapped it in an hour ago and the waving is gone. Woohoo!

However, unfortunately, the bottom left hand corner (this is vertically mounted) is slightly squished. I played with the pots and could not correct it. If I turn up the brightness all of the way, I can see the edge of the screen looks folded on itself almost like one of those "MAD" Magazine fold puzzles, but slightly diagonally. Also, by the bottom in the middle (closer to the right) there is a slight curl. Aside from that, the picture is fine. Pics coming soon.
 
Starting messing around with this again tonight. I still have a slight curvature at the bottom and a jagged corner, here are some attached cell phone pics to demonstrate.

Adjusting the pot doesn't completely correct the bowing (which occurs left of center). Any thoughts? I'm wondering if one of the new caps is a problem, but I quadruple checked to make sure all values are exactly identical.
 

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