attn Ken Layton...

Hi.
been off the forum for a while. Went to doc and turns out I have some kinda pneumonia thing going on. I called a bunch of local amusement device places in Milwaukee WI and they all said they would dig through there warehouses for the 2182D bulbs with socket and call me back but none did.
I even emailed HAPP about #27030 bulbs but they haven't mailed back. They have no pictures but if you are sure that those will work, I will order them. Also that speaker. Then I can find out why the old speaker is fried. May be a shorted voice coil. 1 of the little wires from cone to coil looked burnt.
Ken, I saw a thread where you explained how to attach the plastic monitor cover.
I did not understand that. I am not 100% right now but it looks like #6 1/2" screws will be poking out of the front panel. Can you please explain that to me? All the little pegs are broken off.
Thank you for being here to help.....
Vic
 
The control panel itself is 1/4" thick where the monitor clear plastic mounts. plus the clear plastic itself is 1/4" thick where screws would go.

1/4" plus 1/4" equals 1/2" thick total.
 
I just didn't want to put holes through the front. Maybe doublesided tape?
What about the #27030 bulbs? From HAPP?
 
I would assume those are the bulbs you want. Email/telephone Arachnid tech support to confirm that is the correct part number for the lamp with socket.
 
Hi Ken
Do you have a website called kens corner?
I thought you did but cant find it.
I did order all parts needed.
Thankyou....
 
HI
Got my bulbs and speaker and all were perfect from Happ.
27030 are the correct bulb. Speaker works great.
I hooked everything up just to test it and got some weird results.
For some reason, you have to ground a black wire to the coin mech for the monitor to work properly(same wire to ground the bulbs). Darthead was all over the place, triples were doubles and doubles were triples and the bullseyes both were inop. I must have put it together wrong. Not sure.
Sound test was good and VERY loud but only other sounds were from coin-up on mech. No sounds from a game or anything.
Any ideas?
Thank you.
Vic
 
If I remember correctly, the only sounds in normal gameplay are coinup and end of game.

Scoring problems are probably incorrectly assembled target head or wrong gameboard components installed for the target head you have. Remember, there were two different target heads: regular (thick wall) and Super Spider (thin wall).

http://home.comcast.net/~mtpacifico...000 Series Target Head Switch Matrix Info.pdf

As to the monitor power, follow this schematic on page 6:

http://www.leagueleader.net/bullshooter/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/6000-Series-Schematics.pdf
 
Thank you.
I was unsure of the dart target from the day I took it apart. The 20 is at about 4 oclock now but it all worked good before I took it apart. Maybe I put the switch matrix in backwards, not sure.
I am testing this thing on the floor with everything out of the cab. 2 coin mechs, control panel, speaker, and dart target.
The monitor is working but not right.
It starts out good and all of a sudden, it gets brighter and starts scrolling. It worked great after grounding a coin mech wire. Now it does it anyways. It's gotta be a ground or something.
I did see a sound option screen and most were off.....
 
I thought about it for a minute and I do not know the difference between a thin or thick spider. The segments seem to be around 3/4 of an inch just by looking. The PC board that it plugs into says 6300 w/SuperSpider. It is 1 plug with 3 ribbons....
 
I forgot to add, while testing, I did not have the light harness attached for the "shadow box" lights.
 
Target head pictures

The Super Spider head has thin wall and a switch matrix with only one ribbon cable.

The regular spider head (obsolete) has thick walls and a switch matrix with three ribbon cables.
 

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It must be the super spider then. Looks just like the first pic of it assembled. I see the center locating hole at the top but your screws are in the 8 and 4 O'clock position. My ribbon cable comes out of the bottom as yours. I have read many assembly instruction pages but they are all different. I put it together using the 6300 instructions saying to put the "u" shaped cutouts at 8 oclock from the back on the cushion and matrix and the top locating hole which is closest to the edge at 12 oclock. My screws dont line up to your assembled pic. Looking at mine just like your pic, my screws are 10 and 4 oclock but they weren't like that when I took it apart, they were like yours. I will take some pics and maybe I can get to the bottom of this.
thanks
 
Here are some pics. I will resend the one from before I took it apart....
 

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Here is a view of the matrix from the back and if you zoom, you can see the u shaped cutout at 8 oclock and cushion cutout..........

The 2nd pic is the best pick I have with what it looked like before I took to thing apart...
 

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Did you put the matrix back into the target head the wrong side out? Or possibly connected it to the target interface board backwards?
 
I dont know if I put it on backwards. I think its right. If I flip it over, the u shaped cutout would be in the 4 oclock position with the cable pointing down. I am guessing that this is all viewed from a rear perspective. I guess I could look at my pics of it before I took it apart and see which was the natural "curl" of the ribbon and see if it curls that was now. I will examine it now and test it. I just dont want to fry anything...
 
OK it was together right but maybe the screws were too tight or something wasn't grounded.
Now the dart head scores good had to tap some areas harder then others. When I play a game for testing, like 301 it says on the screen double bull not activated but I did that in setup and it works on the game and I read somewhere about a dipswich setting. The only dipswitches on this are 3 banks of 4 switches. I believe it is the coin/credit pc board but I was wondering if you knew what the switches do.
Thank you...
 
The gameboard should have a 4 position dip switch which adjusts game options.

The bank of 3 dip switches on the coin/credit board adjust pricing only.

http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Darts/Arachnid/6200_6300_Changeable_Coin_Credit_Option.pdf

Installing the dip switch if yours doesn't have one:

http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Darts/Arachnid/Arachnid_6000_to_6300_Kit.pdf


Target head wiring for Super Spider:

http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Darts/Arachnid/Arachnid_Service_Tip_Super Spider_(8-16-1993).pdf
 
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After a closer look, it does have the 4 position dip switch on the main board. I still do not know the function of them. Any ideas?
Thank you...
 
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