Atari white vinyl

itruk

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I'm looking to turn my stripped and painted painted black, system 2 cabinet, back to it's former white vinyl glory.

Does such vinyl still exist?

Failing that, it's a laminate job at some great expense 😭
 
Are you going to put reproduction side art on it? The reason I ask is because you can get the repro art with the white area as part of the entire decal, and it will cover the entire side of the cabinet. I recommend this approach... this way you don't have to put the vinyl wrap down and then the vinyl side art over the top of that.

If you want to do the double approach, a good place to get the vinyl wrap is Metro Restyling. They have very high-quality wrap (made for wrapping cars). This is where I get all my vinyl from. Unfortunately, this stuff isn't cheap.... High quality comes with a high price. Here are some links

Matt Finish: https://metrorestyling.com/products/3m-2080-matte-white-vinyl-wrap-m10?variant=36324093264024
Satin Finish: https://metrorestyling.com/products/3m-2080-satin-white-vinyl-wrap-s10?variant=36324113055896

If you want, you can order sample pieces from them to see which finish you like better.
 
@itruk white laminate is not that expensive https://www.woodworkerexpress.com/909-Surfaces-HPL-Bright-White-102-Vertical-Matte-4-x-8-024.html


@DLP , what about the double-approach of white laminate + whole-side repro art? I know you like MDO for sides but I have a cab with MDF sides I plan to repair then cover with whole-side art. I was thinking to cover it with white laminate first then the whole-side artwork. Im hoping to hide any join imperfections with the laminate.
I do this all the time. Just did it with the Cheyenne I'm working on. Works great. Laminate is the best substrate for adhesive backed vinyl in my opinion. I've just had far too many issues with putting vinyl directly on particleboard. Doesn't stick, little pieces of 'sawdust' pull up and get caught underneath the vinyl, etc. I like using the thin .024 stuff you recommended from woodworkers express. I will admit I need to find a new method of applying the contact cement though. A brush causes too many lumps and thick spots that end up showing through that thin stuff.
 
@itruk white laminate is not that expensive https://www.woodworkerexpress.com/909-Surfaces-HPL-Bright-White-102-Vertical-Matte-4-x-8-024.html


@DLP , what about the double-approach of white laminate + whole-side repro art? I know you like MDO for sides but I have a cab with MDF sides I plan to repair then cover with whole-side art. I was thinking to cover it with white laminate first then the whole-side artwork. Im hoping to hide any join imperfections with the laminate.

Yes, the double approach with white laminate and whole side art works great! I did that on my Food Fight cabinet. (white laminate and then the food fight full side art over the top of that. Came out perfect. (see video).

Honestly, the double approach with vinyl side and then vinyl side decal over the top works fine too. I only mentioned it to itruk because it wasn't necessary if he was doing the system 2 side art because it comes with the white area. I actually did the double (black vinyl and vinyl decal on top when I did my Star Wars cabinet. (see pics)

Food Fight showing white laminate with full side art over top:


Star Wars with black vinyl and vinyl side decal over top:

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1722687386590.png
 
I do this all the time. Just did it with the Cheyenne I'm working on. Works great. Laminate is the best substrate for adhesive backed vinyl in my opinion. I've just had far too many issues with putting vinyl directly on particleboard. Doesn't stick, little pieces of 'sawdust' pull up and get caught underneath the vinyl, etc. I like using the thin .024 stuff you recommended from woodworkers express. I will admit I need to find a new method of applying the contact cement though. A brush causes too many lumps and thick spots that end up showing through that thin stuff.

I use a very thin nap roller and roll two coats of the contact cement on. Works great.
 
Wow guys, you've been busy!

The side art that I have doesn't have the white background, just the stripes.

Laminate:
We don't seem to get the laminate nearly as cheap as you do.
I can't find the thinner vertical grade laminate over here (in the UK), the thinnest looks to be 0.7mm, and around £80 per sheet.
Then it's a case of painting the routered edge, black, so it blends in with the t-molding.

Vinyl: I have thought about the 3M vehicle grade vinyl.
Thicker than normal and I'm able to heat it on the edges to the cut and tuck under the t-molding.

Does it hide dust/shite particles better? They don't show up on cars.
I have a mate who does vinyl wraps on cars, so I might pester him for a price on this.
 
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I use a very thin nap roller and roll two coats of the contact cement on. Works great.
Wilson Art construction Adhesive ? , or another preferred brand ?

Does it hide dust/shite particles better? They don't show up on cars.

Cars tend to get worked on in large, open areas. Game cabs often get sanded & finished in the same smaller room, where remnant wood dust particles are harder to control. You clean the side off but dust just floats around and lands back on the horizontal surface when you're not looking. :confused:
 
Wilson Art construction Adhesive ? , or another preferred brand ?



Cars tend to get worked on in large, open areas. Game cabs often get sanded & finished in the same smaller room, where remnant wood dust particles are harder to control. You clean the side off but dust just floats around and lands back on the horizontal surface when you're not looking. :confused:

Thanks mate.
With regards to your adhesive, over here, contact adhesive doesn't really need to be branded to be good.
Evo-stik is common enough here, but there's lots of copies that does the same job.

I've laminated many cabinets before, and always use a plastic spreader, the laminate will take more glue as it's drier VS the sealed finish of the cabinet.

Pour the glue onto both surfaces, spread thinnley and allow to go dry.
Place some bamboo cane's across and start removing from the middle and rubbing down.
 
Arcade art shop sells textured thick vinyl which works well for Sys II cab, just done one myself, Also its in the UK so good news.


I applied the white vinyl and then the SYS II decal over the top.

Ah good work! Is it decent thick material?
How did you get on with dust underneath, or does it hide it better?

Did you cut to the edge or heat and stuck under the t-molding?
I bought the side art from Olly 🙂
 
I wouldn't stick vinyl directly to 40 year old Atari chip board as its one step from porridge oats, it always shows through and you get one chance to stick it down as once you put it up to have another go you get a sheet of 70's wood chip wall paper.

I always paint chip board first a few times and sand it down to get a clean and flake free finish, I also use a can of wood hardener first if the chip board is weak by rolling it on the entire side.

My cab was already black factory vinyl so didn't need any of the above, I filled and sanded the scars and applied the vinyl , went round with a scalpel after and trimmed to size before fitting the Sys II stuff.

I could moan about the cut in a few places but in the scale of things its perfectly acceptable.

I still got the ICB I got from you a few years ago and the laminate you did on that was a cracking job,
 
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