FS Parts: Atari Power Brick (888) for Centipede & Asteroids Deluxe,

1kGen

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Atari Power Brick (888) for Centipede & Asteroids Deluxe,

Power brick for Centipede and Asteroids Deluxe. Unknown condition but looks great. MMAO
 

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That will work with most Atari raster games

Which is why I am confused he has it listed as a cross for Asteroids Deluxe?



Ok, found the problem here. The quoted part # 888 seems to be the schematic drawing number not the power supply part #. Schematics use "Wiring Diagram 035887-01" actually so thinking that the 888 might be a typo. [UPDATE - the 888 is the transformer part # A035888-01] Regardless, this isn't a cross that works both ways:

  • The Centipede power supply part # is A037671-xx. where the xx is 01/2/3 for the US vs International versions according to manual 6th printing.
  • The Asteroids Deluxe power supply part # is A035892-01 (international) and A036353-01 (US) according to manual 1st printing.

But after briefly looking over the schematics voltage wise (NOT PINOUTS) the Asteroids Deluxe has additional voltage outputs (60v AC CT). So assuming the pinouts were the same (likely) the AD could work in a Centipede but not the other way around.
 
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When I looked into this a while back (in another thread, I forget which), I'd convinced myself the raster bricks were interchangeable into b/w vectors, at least for the US versions. I haven't actually tried it, but the pinouts and voltages looked to be the compatible.

The raster bricks have two 60V CT outputs, which are stacked to make the 120V used by the raster monitors, where the b/w vector monitors only use one of the 60V CT's. I'm not sure offhand if the b/w vector bricks have a second stacked 60V output, which would make them swappable the other way as well.
 
What you're saying makes sense, since the Raster and Black/White vector power supplies use the same Transformer (Color Vectors do not!). So it really only depends upon how the power bricks are wired up and pinned out. The wiring diagrams for the raster don't show the 60v CT being wired up so I am assuming it's not physically there. I have one of each at home and could look them over possibly tonight to see. Going by the schematics though it's missing some wiring.

I'm surprised that they would change the part # and schematics if they left the part alone (i.e. they are identical). That's a lot of NRE for NO gain and all loss when you consider engineering processes as well as production and part stocking/tracking.
 
The way it works is for the raster games, there is a loop of wire in the harness, between two pins on the brick connector, which ties the two 60V outputs together in series, effectively stacking them to make 120V. (This much I did verify on my Millipede.).

The b/w uses only one of the 60V sections, but I'm pretty sure the pinouts are the same. It's the harness that differs.
 
Hoping that the added technical discussion will help out the OP with their sale!


The way it works is for the raster games, there is a loop of wire in the harness, between two pins on the brick connector, which ties the two 60V outputs together in series, effectively stacking them to make 120V. (This much I did verify on my Millipede.).

The b/w uses only one of the 60V sections, but I'm pretty sure the pinouts are the same. It's the harness that differs.

Spent a few minutes looking over the schematics and I'll confirm that the pinouts do appear to be the same and the raster setup does tie the 2 60 VAC windings together in series to get 120VAC.

The AD schematics show the 60 VAC windings setup in parallel (so it does use both), which will increase the max current supplied at 60VAC. I have no idea how much current the AD monitors require but I wouldn't run it on a single set of windings since I don't see any transformer output specs from Atari.
 
I know someone that might need this. Have no idea what it is worth / cost to ship?

Raster are more common. I typically search eBay and here for completed sales to get an idea of value. Apparently they will fit in a USPS flat rate box.

IIRC Color vector bricks typically go for $110-$125 shipped in good condition.
 
USPS Large Flat Rate Box for $20. Pack it upside down, to keep the ears from getting bent. Put it upside down in the box, with a ton of bubble wrap or tight newspaper under it, to cradle and distribute the weight. I also stick a small piece of foam under the transformer, just to pad that part a little more. It'll be snug to close the box, but it can be done. Then tape the holy hell out of it, in all directions.

I've shipped dozens of them this way, never had a problem.
 
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