Atari millipede help?

Dukeboy01

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Donor 2012
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Hey guys,

I have a Millipede that was working 100%, until the game died recently while it was plugged in.

This is what's up with the game now: The game is totally dead with the expection of the marquee and coin door lights which still work. The big blue capacitor is not the problem, I have tested that. I am thinking that this is some kind of power supply issue, but I am a newbie at working on these games and I was wondering what you guys thought this issue is being caused by. Any help would be really appreciated.

Thanks, J.J.
 
Hey JJ -

First off, check your fuses on the brick if you haven't already.

Next, verify all voltages coming to the PCB from the ARII board. There are test points located on the main PCB: 5v is located in the top corner near the T-board. Make sure ALL of your voltages coming off of the ARII are good...there will be some fluctuation with everything other than the 5v, as it is the only one that is regulated.

I set mine about 5.1v...because in measuring voltage at the other end of the PCB (on the ROM chips themselves) I was getting about 4.7 when the TP was at 5.0. Go with your meter though.

Check those for starters and report back.

-Scott
 
Thanks Scott,

Being a newbie at this I was wondering what you meant by the T-board so I could check my voltages?

That might not be the "official" term, but I call the T-board the end circuit board that plugs directly into the game PCB. It is what the two large edge connectors from the wiring harness plug into. I call it "t" because when you slide the PCB out of the cage with the end attached, it looks like a "t". Once you slide it out, you should see the 5v test point at the top of the PCB near where it is plugged in.

You can also test voltages at the output molex connectors on the ARII, but you will get a more accurate read if you check on the PCB.

Where are you located, btw?

-scott
 
There is also a red LED on the PCB that should light up with good voltage...but I would still test everything.

How did you test "Big Blue" if you don't mind me asking?

-scott
 
I thought thats what you meant by T-board, the manual calls it a filter but your right it looks like a T. I tested the big blue with a known working one from my Dig Dug cab just to make sure that it was not the problem. I will check the voltages tomorrow and see what I get. Also I am located in Massachusetts I must have forgot to put that in my profile
 
The red light on the pcb is off, but I still tested the voltage at the 5v test point and I am reading around 2.2v not 5v... the monitor does come on with a blank blue screen when un-plug the bottom right molex connector on the ARII, and I am not sure why...


-J.J.
 
Sounds like a definite ARII rebuild as you are not getting 5v to the PCB and it won't run without it. Also, check the continuity of the wiring that carries the 5v from the ARII to the PCB to make sure it is all good - if you are getting 2.2v, then the continuity is probably ok, but worth a check anyway.

Bob Roberts sells a very inexpensive kit with the parts to rebuild the ARII. YOu can download the schematics for the game as well as the owners manual at Mikes Arcade website. that may help troubleshoot down the road.

Keep us posted! Pics are always good, too.

-Scott
 
I am ordering the rebuild kit from Bob Roberts. I am also in the process of restoring the cabinet so I will post pics when I finish the resto.


- J.J.
 
I am ordering the rebuild kit from Bob Roberts. I am also in the process of restoring the cabinet so I will post pics when I finish the resto.


- J.J.

Great - once we move I am going to start cleaning my cab up. Found a new problem on mine last night...the red on the monitor keeps jumping in and out, so I am thinking bad solder joint on the neck board more than likely. Still playable, but can't see my score when it goes out!

Take care -

Scott
 
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