Atari LED Cone Switch Problems

machfelon

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I ordered 2 LED Cone switches for my marble madness.

And I think seller sent me wrong item.

Old Switch has 5 leads with 4 wires

New Switch has 6 leads with 4 wires

They look exactly the same except the new one has an extra lead. I tried a ton of different combinations and have NO LIGHT or function on these switches.

Got them from pacmandotcom.com (riptor from klov)
 
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anyone please?

Old Switch Old Switch

X X R Y
X X X B G E(empty)

New Switch

X X New Swithc (NO WORKY)
X X X X

Have a black, red, yellow and (green/brown) wire
 
Those are LICON brand switch. Atari used these on some games but the Cherry brand switches were used 99% of the time. Bally was a big user of the Licon stuff.
Let me see if I can dig some wiring info up.
 
I ordered 2 LED Cone switches for my marble madness.

And I think seller sent me wrong item.

Old Switch has 5 leads with 4 wires

New Switch has 6 leads with 4 wires

They look exactly the same except the new one has an extra lead. I tried a ton of different combinations and have NO LIGHT or function on these switches.

Got them from pacmandotcom.com (riptor from klov)

Has the seller got anything to say?
 
Has the seller got anything to say?
I think we would need to see some information regarding what was originally ordered before we could even begin to make an intelligent determination as to whether the seller sent the wrong product or the buyer simply assumed he was ordering the right thing (but didn't).
 
I got one switch to work, player 1 button. I tried every combo on 2 player and cone will not light. Couple combinations do allow for player 2 start but not both.

I put like 10 credits into it and p2 should illuminate. I also followed another klovers wiring on a 5 lead switch.
 
Those are LICON brand switch. Atari used these on some games but the Cherry brand switches were used 99% of the time. Bally was a big user of the Licon stuff.
Let me see if I can dig some wiring info up.

Old one was cherry, new one is licon.

Although one of my old ones had a broken lead and was unable to fix it.
 
The 2 tabs that are right next to each other are your LED voltage hook up.
The RIGHT tab is the + voltage and the LEFT tab is ground.

The 4 tabs on the bottom....
Use the one on the far left (NC) and far right (NC) for your start function.

The 2 tabs in the middle are the NO function and not used.
 

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The 2 tabs that are right next to each other are your LED voltage hook up.
The RIGHT tab is the + voltage and the LEFT tab is ground.

The 4 tabs on the bottom....
Use the one on the far left (NC) and far right (NC) for your start function.

The 2 tabs in the middle are the NO function and not used.

If I have a black a red a green/blue and a yellow

Correct placement?!
 
I don't have that Atari manual to look up color codes. :-(
If you hooked up the LED voltage wrong on one of the new buttons, there is a good chance the LED was blown.
 
I don't have that Atari manual to look up color codes. :-(
If you hooked up the LED voltage wrong on one of the new buttons, there is a good chance the LED was blown.

Yeah I dont have an Atari System 1 manual or mm manual either. I rearanged leads while game was on and got player 2 to be staedy red for a short time. But p2 start would work. When re-wired again start works but still no light. I even tried my other switch but cant get the light to illuminate. Really minimal voltage coming out of those wire though and I doubt a mis-wire is enough to pop an LED. Think worse case is it just wont light.
 
The 2 tabs that are right next to each other are your LED voltage hook up.
The RIGHT tab is the + voltage and the LEFT tab is ground.

The 4 tabs on the bottom....
Use the one on the far left (NC) and far right (NC) for your start function.

The 2 tabs in the middle are the NO function and not used.

Schematic says

P1, button is BN and BK
P1, LED is OR and R

P2, button is Y and BK
P2, LED is BU and R

Either the schematic is wrong or my own P1 button is wired wrong.

... Altan
 
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I think we would need to see some information regarding what was originally ordered before we could even begin to make an intelligent determination as to whether the seller sent the wrong product or the buyer simply assumed he was ordering the right thing (but didn't).

I was more thinking that the seller would likely have an idea of what the switch's pinout is, which is what's needed here. That's all.
 
Schematic says

P1, button is BN and BK
P1, LED is OR and R

P2, button is Y and BK
P2, LED is BU and R

Either the schematic is wrong or my own P1 button is wired wrong.

... Altan

I had a moment and checked out my Marble Madness. What's confusing is that the colors listed above are correct --- they are the colors on the J106 connector. However, the colors change somewhere in the harness. So they are not the exact colors that end up at the switches.

Player1.jpg

(Player 1 switch is above)

Player2.jpg

(Player 2 switch is above)

Given what Mylstar wrote, my guess is ...

(1) The two terminals that are next to each other behavior just like your original ones. This is for the LED. Connect the two wires just like they were originally

(2) Regarding moving from the 3 terminals to the 6 terminals, using the same wires connect one to each of the outermost terminals.

That's my best guess (based on Mylstar's comments and my own setup).

... Altan
 
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