Those voltages are fine.
Next, connect the AR, then test the 10.3V DC, +5V DC, 36VAC, +22V DC, -22V DC, +12V DC, and -5V DC on the AR, with the game board NOT plugged in.
Also, you should test the AC ripple on the 10.3V test point, which will tell you how healthy your big blue filter cap on the brick is. You should check this any time you test voltages in your cab. If it's ok, your big blue is fine and you do not need to replace it. See this thread for how to measure:
One of my tempests has been acting up lately. The game will play fine for a little while..may get a game or two in, then it starts rebooting to the point where I can't get past a single level. I've swapped out the boards and PS and the issue persists. I checked the voltages on both PS and I'm...
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Additional Notes:
- The 10.3V DC test point on the AR is the same voltage as the 10.6 on the brick (Atari named it both ways in the schematics, but it's the same voltage). However it might measure a volt or two less at the AR, that's normal. You should see at least 12V. If not, the fuse block tabs on the brick are usually in need of cleaning.
- Use any GND test point on the AR for all DC measurements, and the AC ripple. (Any one, they are all the same.) In general, always use a ground on the same board you're measuring voltage on.
- There is no test point for the +5. However you can use the positive (+) side of the C1 cap on the AR. Set the 5V to 5.00V using the pot on the AR. Note that you will need to bump this up when you connect the game board, as there will be around half a volt lost in the wiring and connectors. So if you wanted to set it to 5.5V at the brick with no load, that's fine too, you'll still need to tweak it later.
- The 36V AC is the same as the one on the brick, so it should be about the same. (However you still want to test it, to make sure there are no breaks between the brick and AR.) You also need to measure BETWEEN the two 36V AC test points on the AR. If you measure each test point to GND, you'll get half of the voltage (18V AC).
- The +22 and -22V DC run high. They'll be around +/-24V. That's nornal.
- The +12 and -5 are actually not used by Tempest (or any other color vector games except Star Wars). So they technically are not needed, and you can use an AR-II-04 in any of these games (which don't have those voltages). Tempests shipped with AR-II-02's from the factory (which have the +12 and -5V sections populated), even though the +12 and -5V are not used.
- If you do measure the -5V, it's normal on some AR's for it to read artificially high. This is because some 7905 regulators measure high when there is no load. Not all 7905's do this, it depends on the manufacturer, so it may not be high on some AR's. If it is high, you can check this by connecting a 1k resistor between the -5V test point and GND, and the voltage should come down to -5V. But again, this is somewhat moot for most color vector games, because they don't use the -5V.
Once all of the above are ok, make sure the monitor is UNPLUGGED, plug the game board in, then power up again and measure and tweak the 5V on the game boards. For Tempest, test it on BOTH the main and aux boards. The aux board gets its 5V power from the main, so it will always be a little lower. You want the aux to be at least 4.90V (a little lower than 5.00 is ok), and the main should be around 5.10 give or take, which is ok. The issue is if you just set the main to 5.00, the aux can be too low, so it's important to test both. (And always use the GND test point on the board you're measuring the given voltage on.)
Also, test and make sure the -15V DC and +15V DC are good on the main board. (They both should be within +/- half a volt of target.)
Once voltages are ok, make sure the game is playing blind. If it is, do not plug in the monitor yet. You'll want to do that in stages. Details for how to do that are explained in my 6100 bring-up guide. Download here:
How to bring up a 6100 color vector monitor (A PDF guide) Hi all, I've seen a number of folks with questions lately about bringing up 6100 monitors. On that topic, I have a set of notes that I'd been compiling and adding to over time, with info I've learned (sometimes the hard way) from...
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Sorry for the extra detail, but I wrote it all out so I can just bookmark this thread, and refer people to it when they want to assemble an Atari vector cab from complete scratch (i.e., from the brick up), as this is everything you have to do to make sure you don't blow anything up. (And your diagram is useful as well.)