joeycuda
Well-known member
My goal with this information is to most accurately build 3 or 4 Atari cabinets for projects that would otherwise be parts cabinets, due to very rough cabinets. I have a swollen Football that a rat called a home, a Quantum that is waterlogged swollen, and will attempt to scratch build a Black Widow. Also need to make some replacement panels for a SW cockpit. All of these games would be pretty rough without cabinet replacement or certain pieces at least. That out of the way-
In the beginning, I thought substituting certain (better) materials might be a good idea, as long as they looked the same to the eye. Plywood for certain panels and matte black Formica laminate instead of the heat/pressure applied vinyl you see on the interior of Atari cabinets.
I wanted to use plywood for the side panels, so did that for a Missile Command cabaret. Since the sides would be covered on the inside with black Formica laminate and on the outside with woodgrain laminate, who would know? .....My experience was that the plywood sides warped badly before putting the cabinet together, so getting it square and assembled was fairly difficult and I had to clamp the whole thing to my cabinet saw top. Also, the woodgrain laminate has since popped loose in spots interior to the cabinet and around the edges. Could be adhesive or laminate failure, but I blame the plywood a little.
On the other hand, the matte black Formica laminate looks very close to the vinyl laminated particle board, but if using std grade, you need to account for the added thickness vs thickness of panel to equal .75" vs centering of the t-molding slot.
I think I've pretty much given up on subbing matte black or woodgrain laminate in place of the vinyl. Also, I've decided that even if particleboard is a crap material by fine woodworking standards, I am going to use it for all panels because:
1) PB is more dimensionally stable than plywood
2) PB provides a super flat surface for applying laminate/vinyl artwork
3) Most of all.. it is the OEM material. Any exposed, but painted edges must be particle board for the same appearance.
Obviously, what we don't like about particleboard is how fragile it can be and how susceptible to moisture it is. Just have to tell myself, in a HUO/collector environment, these shouldn't be factors. I do think that that any particle board panel I cut will be sealed with a few coats of Zinsser sealer, then lightly sanded. This will provide a slicker surface for applying adhesive vinyl and a bit more protection in the bare particle board areas.
My concerns/worries at this point are mainly:
1) The original laminate (black inner/white outer) on the particle board was probably heat/pressure applied, and already there when the sheet goods were cut into panels. I worry that the 3M black adhesive vinyl may not hold up over time like the OEM stuff and that the adhesive may fail, so that it lifts around the edges.
2) The new vinyl may shrink, leaving gaps around the edges
3) What is the best source for woodgrain vinyl? Is the 3M DI-NOC stuff that Happ sells "it"? Will it hold up well over time?
I'm not looking to spend anymore on any of this than I have to, but I also consider all of this valuable woodworking experience. If I build a new cabinet for something rarer like Quantum or Black Widow, I want it to be a dead on perfect replica as much as possible. This isn't about pleasing the community or holding value, as I would guess my replica cabinet restorations won't ever be worth as much as a pristine survivor, but..I want to be pleased with the project and part of the fun is in copying the process that the factory originally had, without their jigs, measurements, and tools.
In the beginning, I thought substituting certain (better) materials might be a good idea, as long as they looked the same to the eye. Plywood for certain panels and matte black Formica laminate instead of the heat/pressure applied vinyl you see on the interior of Atari cabinets.
I wanted to use plywood for the side panels, so did that for a Missile Command cabaret. Since the sides would be covered on the inside with black Formica laminate and on the outside with woodgrain laminate, who would know? .....My experience was that the plywood sides warped badly before putting the cabinet together, so getting it square and assembled was fairly difficult and I had to clamp the whole thing to my cabinet saw top. Also, the woodgrain laminate has since popped loose in spots interior to the cabinet and around the edges. Could be adhesive or laminate failure, but I blame the plywood a little.
On the other hand, the matte black Formica laminate looks very close to the vinyl laminated particle board, but if using std grade, you need to account for the added thickness vs thickness of panel to equal .75" vs centering of the t-molding slot.
I think I've pretty much given up on subbing matte black or woodgrain laminate in place of the vinyl. Also, I've decided that even if particleboard is a crap material by fine woodworking standards, I am going to use it for all panels because:
1) PB is more dimensionally stable than plywood
2) PB provides a super flat surface for applying laminate/vinyl artwork
3) Most of all.. it is the OEM material. Any exposed, but painted edges must be particle board for the same appearance.
Obviously, what we don't like about particleboard is how fragile it can be and how susceptible to moisture it is. Just have to tell myself, in a HUO/collector environment, these shouldn't be factors. I do think that that any particle board panel I cut will be sealed with a few coats of Zinsser sealer, then lightly sanded. This will provide a slicker surface for applying adhesive vinyl and a bit more protection in the bare particle board areas.
My concerns/worries at this point are mainly:
1) The original laminate (black inner/white outer) on the particle board was probably heat/pressure applied, and already there when the sheet goods were cut into panels. I worry that the 3M black adhesive vinyl may not hold up over time like the OEM stuff and that the adhesive may fail, so that it lifts around the edges.
2) The new vinyl may shrink, leaving gaps around the edges
3) What is the best source for woodgrain vinyl? Is the 3M DI-NOC stuff that Happ sells "it"? Will it hold up well over time?
I'm not looking to spend anymore on any of this than I have to, but I also consider all of this valuable woodworking experience. If I build a new cabinet for something rarer like Quantum or Black Widow, I want it to be a dead on perfect replica as much as possible. This isn't about pleasing the community or holding value, as I would guess my replica cabinet restorations won't ever be worth as much as a pristine survivor, but..I want to be pleased with the project and part of the fun is in copying the process that the factory originally had, without their jigs, measurements, and tools.
