Atari Cabaret Wood Grain Vinyl

Appreciate the info.
I'd have to agree with you, having done a lot of wood working, it's no small job to do something like this.

As for cost though, full-sheet (4'x8') laminates are around $50, give or take (from the eBay reseller link you posted). Though I'm sure this price can vary greatly.
A PSA Vinyl(Adhesive), Laminated & printed at 4'x8' is going to run you a lot more in cost.
As an example, for a 24"x42" cabinet, Laminated-Vinyl-Adhesive would run approximately $80 a side.
So, for the cost of one full-sheet of laminate you could do 2 sides of a cab.
Of course, as Joey pointed out, there's a lot more involved in doing it this way.

Also to explain a little further on what we would like to do...
First, we will NOT be printing these wood-grain peel-n-sticks, it's just not cost effective when this is already available by other companies and a lot cheaper than we could do it for.
What we would like to do is gather a list of wood-grain types/colors/grains for cabinets that use this. Then Color & Grain match these (as close as possible) to "Peel-n-Stick" Laminate products that are already available. Once that's accomplished, it's a matter of cost/pricing. If we can bulk-buy cheap enough, we'd like to carry the product for resale.
If it turns out that it's not feasible to carry them, then we'll just make the information available as to which product for which cabinet is the closest look to original and where to buy it.
How simple (or hard) this will be remains to be seen!
Hope this makes sense?
 
How do you account for the extra width of the laminate with the t-molding? The laminate will stick out on either side of the t-molding. Also , how do you do the front piece? Can't laminate and route that can you? Definitely interested in the laminate option, but I see some difficulties with the above issues. Otherwise, I agree, looks far more professional than vinyl and pretty easy to apply.

Vertical grade laminate is barely thinner than the adhesive vinyl. It's so thin that it's challenging to work with.

I used woodgrain laminate for my new Frogger front. In that case, I did the laminate before installing the front. If you're putting new laminate on a cabinet front without removing the panel..You would ideally cut the laminate to size, or at least perfect width, before installation. You could use a fine tooth blade on a tablesaw, masking tape on each side of the cut.
 
I used woodgrain laminate by Wilsonart that I special ordered at my local Home Depot for my Defender cocktail restoration.

http://samples.wilsonartcontract.com/p-150-montana-walnut-7110.aspx

I used a heat gun to get the old stuff off, and sanded and filled in the wood sides where needed to prep. Then add some contact cement on the back of the laminate, and the wood panels, let them get tacky, and press them together with a roller/rolling pin/wine bottle.

Route the edges for a smooth finish. If the panel is still on the machine, I recon a straight edge clamped to the surface and a razor to score it a few times would give a clean cut.
 
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