For those unfamiliar, it works out this was because a bridge rectifier is nothing more than 4 diodes arranged in a square. As long as AC goes in on opposite corners, DC comes out the remaining two corners. (see pic)
To identify the terminals on an unmarked full wave rectifier, use your a meters continuity test. First, select two opposite terminals as your AC terminals. It does not matter which two as long as they are diagonal from one another. This leaves you with only two terminals to test. These are your DC terminals. Next, connect your meter's black (-) lead to either of the AC terminals. Now, test both DC terminals with your red (+) lead. The + DC terminal will show continuity, the - terminal will not. You can remember this later by looking at the probe. If you are testing with a + probe, you will get continuity on the + terminal. Conversely, if you reverse the leads and connect + to an AC terminal, you will be testing for the - terminal.
To identify the DC terminals on an unmarked full wave rectifier, use your a meters continuity test. First, select the two opposite terminals marked as as your AC terminals. This leaves you with only two DC terminals to test. Next, connect your meter's black (-) lead to either of the AC terminals. Now, test both DC terminals with your red (+) lead. The + DC terminal will show continuity, the - terminal will not. You can remember this later by looking at the probe. If you are testing with a + probe, you will get continuity on the + terminal. Conversely, if you reverse the leads and connect + to an AC terminal, you will be testing for the - terminal.
If all that sounds difficult to remember, there is an easier way. Supply AC power to it (without a load on DC). Use your voltmeter to check the opposing DC terminals. If + and _ leads are hooked up properly, the voltage value will be positive. If it is negative, your leads are reversed.
@Ben - Test your install with the instructions above. You may have installed properly, but the old vs. new pinouts changed.
The original diodes are MR750 (semi conductors), the P600As are solid state
"solid state" is an old term used to denote devices that used all semiconductors and no tubes. It's not used much anymore, but can was often used interchangeably with semiconductor. If the specs match, carry on. Since rectifiers are very simple devices, all you really need are diodes that can handle the same voltage and current.
Missile Command, like other Atari games from about 1980 and earlier, does NOT use a bridge rectifier in the power assembly. Instead, it has two large diodes on a small circuit board that is screwed directly to the bottom of the "big blue" filter cap. In the manual, it's listed as "rectifier p.c. board assembly."
The transition from the two-diode (half wave) to four-diode bridge (full wave) rectification seems to have happened around 1980-81.
Are you sure that's a half wave rectifier? You can use a center tap transformer and make a full wave rectifier with just two diodes. I'd love to see a schematic and/or pic if you have one handy or can point me to a link.