Atari A/R-02/03 questions

Kickman

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Q8 it's a 7812 is there suppose to be a mica or insulator behind it?

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Q2 it's a TIP32
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the plastic screw in mine came to me broken, any source for those, and also can I get away with testing my work with out till I locate one
 
Yes, the TIP32 (and the 7905 on the other side, if it's a -02) uses an insulator. Everything else doesn't need one, though having one won't hurt. I believe Atari started using them on all of the heatsink-mounted parts at some point, as I have seen original AR's with them all around. Maybe for better thermal characteristics, or more possibly as added insurance in the case of failure (as if something shorts, it won't short to the sink/ground). That's just a theory though.

I have a Digikey part number from the nylon screws (and the silicone thermal pads), which I can post later when I'm home, as I don't have it handy at the moment.
 
Yes, the TIP32 (and the 7905 on the other side, if it's a -02) uses an insulator. Everything else doesn't need one, though having one won't hurt. I believe Atari started using them on all of the heatsink-mounted parts at some point, as I have seen original AR's with them all around. Maybe for better thermal characteristics, or more possibly as added insurance in the case of failure (as if something shorts, it won't short to the sink/ground). That's just a theory though.



I have a Digikey part number from the nylon screws (and the silicone thermal pads), which I can post later when I'm home, as I don't have it handy at the moment.



Number for that screw would be great but Im not sure I'm gonna order one screw from Digikey.

Maybe I can track it down local. Any reason to suggest not plugging it in with out that screw in place? I can't really think of any, don't plan on running it that way, just wanna check my work is all.

Thanks for the info in the micas

Harry
 
Oh, and you can power it on without the insulator to check your work no problem. Just bend it away from the heatsink, so it doesn't bump against it.

I don't think the TIP32 really gets that hot anyway. Not that I'd advocate running it full time that way, but you should safely be able to test it for a few minutes no problem.
 
The Digikey part number for the screw is RPC1582-ND. It's a 6-32 nylon slotted pan screw. You might be able to find them at an electronics store, as I don't think a lot of other places sell nylon screws. (Maybe a hobby shop?)



http://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=RPC1582-ND





The insulators are silicone, not mica. You don't use grease with them. They're the same as the original ones Atari used. Digikey BER206-ND.



http://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=BER206-ND



-Andy



Cool thank you for info, I didn't know what to call them, but i have new ones that came with kit from Ian K. Thermal pads.
 
Is there away to test the audio output straight from the AR2 after rebuilding the power supply game runs and plays but no audio. Now the game came dead with no monitor, it was mostly complete with 2 board sets. I've did some reading and I socketed the LM324 and replaced that. Still no sound.

Since the game was dead when it arrived, and I rebuilt the power supply, I'm not sure if this is my fault, PCB issue. I checked the cabinet wiring and everything but this is screwing with me, it looks as though it goes no place....
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It travels up towards the speaker and marquee lamp.

I've never owned an Atari centipede so I'm not familiar with anything. Other than sound, all is good
 
Dumb question, but is the speaker plugged in?

The wires that go up to the marquee are typically 120V and ground for the fluorescent light (plus a third light green field ground), and the 2 audio wires for the speaker. The ones with the slide-on connectors look like the speaker wires.
 
Don't forget the volume pot. If not there (or bad), no sound.



Dumb question, but is the speaker plugged in?



The wires that go up to the marquee are typically 120V and ground for the fluorescent light (plus a third light green field ground), and the 2 audio wires for the speaker. The ones with the slide-on connectors look like the speaker wires.



I checked that the speaker was plugged in... and that the wires looked clean and tight in the crimps. I left my fluke at work, and unfortunately my home meter along with a few other things were stolen ☹️long story.

I can really test anything right now which is bugging me cause I don't know if -5vdc and +12vdc are even good on the AR2 so I'm kinda just poking around board.

I did replace the LM324 and I did try the pokey chip off my spare board.

What the hell is this wire that just chilling here?

https://vimeo.com/202696256
 
Someone with a Centipede cab will have to comment on the spare connectors.

Could they be an extra set of speaker wires? If they're connected to the ones going up to the marquee speaker, then that's maybe the case. Perhaps Atari planned at some point for a second lower speaker under the CP area, like on Space Duel and Battlezone(?) Just a guess. I don't own a Centipede cab, and am not familiar with them, so I can't say for sure.

I've also seen other spare connectors on some cabs (I forget which, Tempest maybe?) for a test switch, which are not used, as they used the test switch on the coin door instead.

Your best bet is to just trace them and see where they end up, and look at the schematics to see what that connector/pin is. I wouldn't try too hard to find a place to plug them in though, as they might just be meant to go nowhere. Those slip-on connectors are mainly used for speakers in Atari cabs, so I'm not sure what else they could go to.
 
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