Asteroids with G05-801 - spot killer question

drtempus

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I have an Asteroids game (just purchased dead)

Symptoms:

1) powers up into spot killer mode. LED lit
2) low hum (which I assume is the working overhead light) and a little static noise every now and then.
3) P1/P2 not lit
4) CRT neck glows
5) tried self-test and it doesn't do anything

Question: will the self-test work with spot-killer on? Or are these symptoms characteristic of a game board problem and more than just a monitor problem.

thanks for any help! (trying to get it running before new year's eve if i'm lucky)
 
I have an Asteroids game (just purchased dead)

Symptoms:

1) powers up into spot killer mode. LED lit
2) low hum (which I assume is the working overhead light) and a little static noise every now and then.
3) P1/P2 not lit
4) CRT neck glows
5) tried self-test and it doesn't do anything

Question: will the self-test work with spot-killer on? NO Or are these symptoms characteristic of a game board problem and more than just a monitor problem.

thanks for any help! (trying to get it running before new year's eve if i'm lucky)

Sounds like a problem with your A/R I. Test and verify that you +5vdc on the game board. Providing that you have +5vdc to the game board, test R100 & R101 for opens on the G05-801.
 
Thanks for the quick reply...

sure enough, only about 2V on game board. checked A/R pcb and its only about 2V.
The unregulated 10V testpoint is reading about 12V. Will look at the A/R schematics and hopefully isolate this to the component.

Would be so cool to get it running. :)

thanks again.

-Allen
Ellicott City, MD with 15" of snow. lol
 
Thanks for the quick reply...

sure enough, only about 2V on game board. checked A/R pcb and its only about 2V.
The unregulated 10V testpoint is reading about 12V. Will look at the A/R schematics and hopefully isolate this to the component.

Would be so cool to get it running. :)

thanks again.

-Allen
Ellicott City, MD with 15" of snow. lol

Test the two diodes in between J6 & J7 on the A/R I
 
Test the two diodes in between J6 & J7 on the A/R I

I'll have to recheck this in the morning (freezing in my garage). neither of them came up with .68 as i've seen in other diode tests. it looked like each had some charging/discharging as I tested in both forward and reverse biased directions. I thought the one on left was shorted, but then saw some slight charging. The right one charged to .2 I believe. Will double-check everything tomorrow.
 
make sure that the fuses in the transformer brick at the bottom of the game are not corroded at all. Check and clean them off if needed. It can make a difference.
 
FIXED! Thanks for pointing me in the direction of the A/R PCB

Resoldered cold solder joints on 2 of the molex connectors (no change)

I found Q3 2N3055 bass to emitter to be shorted. happened to have replacement in the house (I work on vintage analog synthesizers part-time) and it came up.

fire button wasn't working (cleaned contacts to fix)

audio is staticy every so often, will look into it after i get it in the warm basement and warm the poor thing up. (frigid in the garage).

Thanks! New Year's is gonna rock. :)
 
Welcome to the board. My brother used to live near Ellicott city.
You should come to my next arcade party...probably in febuary or so.
 
The audio issue is most likely either a cap issue on the A/R I or a marquee ballast getting ready to crap out on you.

funny you should say that. lol. the flourescent lamp was lit the day before, but today its not lit. I'll hit home depot tomorrow.

also, found rotate right button missing the metal lock nut on bottom. shimming under top of button in the meantime while I figure out where to get one. maybe home depot has something that will work as well.

Also, I remember Asteroids having a blue/red/white control panel, this one has orange.
 

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Thats a reproduction CPO, probably willis. The original was silkscreened right on the panel.
If you need a button nut send me your address and I will get one out to you.
 
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