Asteroids WG 19V2000 monitor going blank in center of screen

I have seen bad tantulum caps cause this on v2000's.

That was actually going to be my next recommendation. If any of the caps are marginal or bad, the spot killer can kick in momentarily. I have seen this as well, though it didn't look exactly like the OP (though I suppose the behavior can vary depending on how bad the caps are).

OP, there are 4 of them, and they usually look like little green or blue drops (sorry I don't have the component numbers handy at the moment).

You can replace them with 1uF electrolytic caps, If they're easier for you to get.
 
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That was actually going to be my next recommendation. If any of the caps are marginal or bad, the spot killer can kick in momentarily. I have seen this as well, though it didn't look exactly like the OP (though I suppose the behavior can vary depending on how bad the caps are).

OP, there are 4 of them, and they usually look like little green or blue drops (sorry I don't habe the component numbers handy at the moment).

You can replace them with 1uF electrolytic caps, If they're easier for you to get.

I actually have a Bob Roberts V2000 cap kit for it that I bought before he stopped doing business. It has caps for C500,C501,C502,C503. I am going to cap the board.
 
I actually have a Bob Roberts V2000 cap kit for it that I bought before he stopped doing business. It has caps for C500,C501,C502,C503. I am going to cap the board.


Bob's caps were terrible quality, and the cheapest chinese caps possible. If you are going to recap the board, take a minute to order a quality kit from a reputable dealer. It will be worth the effort.

If you want to use the BR kit, try replacing just the C500-503 first, then retest the board. But I would not use the other caps in the kit.
 
Bob's caps were terrible quality, and the cheapest chinese caps possible. If you are going to recap the board, take a minute to order a quality kit from a reputable dealer. It will be worth the effort.

If you want to use the BR kit, try replacing just the C500-503 first, then retest the board. But I would not use the other caps in the kit.

+1 for sure on those crappy caps. if the OP wants top quality caps here is the kit. we do have the 6800uf filters too on the site.

https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.co...s-gardner-v2000-series-cap-kit-105c-nichicon/
 
Bob's caps were terrible quality, and the cheapest chinese caps possible. If you are going to recap the board, take a minute to order a quality kit from a reputable dealer. It will be worth the effort.

If you want to use the BR kit, try replacing just the C500-503 first, then retest the board. But I would not use the other caps in the kit.

I wasn't aware that they were that bad. I'm going to ahead and replace C500-503 with what I have and see if it fixes the issue and go from there.
 
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Replacing those caps did the trick. Working like it should now. Thanks to all that contributed to the thread. For anyone else coming here with the same issue it says right in the sticky on V2000/G05 monitors that picture fading in and out can be caused by bad caps in the spot killer section. That being the 500 section. Shame on me for not reading that first.
 
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LOL --- Stickies ... what are they good for? Absolutely nuthin' unless you have a monitor that fades in and out.

Good to know a CAPKIT (all or most caps) can fix most/many issues with these monitors. I had assumed it was cap'd previously but not just these random four "tants".
 
LOL --- Stickies ... what are they good for? Absolutely nuthin' unless you have a monitor that fades in and out.

Good to know a CAPKIT (all or most caps) can fix most/many issues with these monitors. I had assumed it was cap'd previously but not just these random four "tants".

It was worked on before I got it. Possibly they couldn't figure it out and that's how it ended up in my hands.
 
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