Asteroids Restoration

What vertex said. Just tapping the bad pot revealed the problem right away, it made the image jump significantly in size, but left alone you got that "breathing" effect.

Now that they're all replaced it's solid.


This is what is happening on my G05-802 monitor as well. I had spent approximately 45 minutes trying to mess with the pots on both the deflection board and the PCB and could not get the Y axis to move the image up towards the top of the monitor. Seems like the image wants to hang towards the bottom - and with everything out of wack, the images tend to breath towards the center of the screen.

Looks like my problem is bad pots. Thanks for the tip on where to get these.
 
This is what is happening on my G05-802 monitor as well. I had spent approximately 45 minutes trying to mess with the pots on both the deflection board and the PCB and could not get the Y axis to move the image up towards the top of the monitor. Seems like the image wants to hang towards the bottom - and with everything out of wack, the images tend to breath towards the center of the screen.

Looks like my problem is bad pots. Thanks for the tip on where to get these.

You can move the image around on the screen (including up and down) using the tabs on the neck. Just curious if you tried that.
 
Someone wanted closeups of the button setup after I explained that the tension comes from the end of the button tip resting on the larger leaf. The springs inside the button don't give this tension, it comes from the leaf here. You can bend it down using something like a credit card or small, metal object, pressing down close to the plastic connection where it's mounted.

The smaller leaf can be bent down the same way, and if you get it too close where it's touching, bending it back it pretty easy. But this is how I got the quick response and constant tension on the button.
 

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Someone wanted closeups of the button setup after I explained that the tension comes from the end of the button tip resting on the larger leaf. The springs inside the button don't give this tension, it comes from the leaf here. You can bend it down using something like a credit card or small, metal object, pressing down close to the plastic connection where it's mounted.



The smaller leaf can be bent down the same way, and if you get it too close where it's touching, bending it back it pretty easy. But this is how I got the quick response and constant tension on the button.



Cool. Thanks for the pics and information!
 
I have only had my Asteroids for about 6 months but it is the pride of my collection (next to Ms. Pac, of course). The cabinet is in beautiful condition for its age. It was electronically tuned up previous to my getting it. The monitor picture is awesome and it plays like a dream. Only thing I had to do was replace the buttons. They were pretty cruddy but everything else is beautiful. Very very light wear on the CP paint. Extremely nice for being original. All I need to do on the game now is replace the end of the power cord. Its ok as it is but someone spliced the end from an old computer cord onto it. Works fine, just looks ugly. Super happy with this game.

I saw yours when you posted originally. It sure has come a long way and I am extremely glad that I did not have to do that to mine. Great job.
 
I saw yours when you posted originally. It sure has come a long way and I am extremely glad that I did not have to do that to mine. Great job.

Thanks. I enjoyed restoring this from its previous condition.
 
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God I'm horrible at this compared to AD...

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Brace Yourselves, the Cap Kits are Coming

It's winter and it's time to hit the long list of winter projects. Besides toilets & faucets to fix, Asteroids had a shortlist of things needing attention, first off being a recap of the main board thanks to the cap kit from Security90210, where I also purchased a kit for Deluxe to do later.

While the replacement went fine, this unfortunately doesn't resolve a re-occurring graphic glitch that I'm experiencing. While I'm slowly tracing that problem down, the PCB connector will get replaced next.
 

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Asteroids is working once again, big thanks to Andrewb. Full drama thread here.

TL;DR
  • Two transistors fried
  • Replaced diode between flyback & anode connection
  • +5 Adjust to board (was high)
  • Adjust brightness/contrast

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UFO siren sound went out. Replaced R10 and N10, no luck. I don't have any 566's around to replace that, but it's probably something else anyway. Bah. Game seems so naked without that sound.
 
It's often the 566. They're tricky to find, and expensive ($5-6 each, from ebay China). But they do go bad. One of the more obscure parts on these boards.
 
It's often the 566. They're tricky to find, and expensive ($5-6 each, from ebay China). But they do go bad. One of the more obscure parts on these boards.

Of course it is. :) I'll look at my LL board and see if it's socketed there (maybe AD too), otherwise I think I saw one on digikey but confirming the model numbers is always tricky when there's a few extra letters that follow the IC number.
 
I have LM566's, and they work fine. If I had to guess, the person in that UKVAC thread more likely just got bad fakes. They're all made in China, so quality control isn't going to be top priority.
 
Replaced the 566's and the UFO sound is still missing. Crap. Looks like I'm going to have to take a logic probe to the 566 and see if it's at least doing it's thing.

I still find it weird that the sound just conked out for no reason to begin with. Is there any wire, connector, somewhere else that could cause it to fail or is it just restricted to that circuit?
 
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